ParadiseMJ

Yay...I did something right.

Soooo, Do I use the adjustable Renix TPS or the non-adjustable HO TPS?..I don't know if I ever asked that question!

It is becoming better results. Had I not just jumped off the deep end without doing my homework on the wiring, I'd be better off. It's been frustrating, BUT I trusted that the wiring harness was more complete.

I've been following it, all 11 (so far) pages. My issue(s) have been touched on slightly and I've taken some of that advice. I almost have this animal tamed. Fixed several of the problems I was having just by fixing some factory connections and some of my own shoddy work before I had any clue what went where and who did what. I have two more wires to find before I button it all up.

If you google (or bing etc.) "FLV Malware fix" you might be able to find a fix...usually you can download the fix (for alot malware) on to a thumb drive and then restart you computer to boot up with that thumb drive. I had some malware that completely froze up my box, telling me that I could be arrested and jailed for all the kiddie porn and terrorist activity on my hard drive :brows: . I fixed it just like above. The local computer shop wanted $260 to "remove" the virus/malware.

Really tough one. If you can't find an MJ in a yard with an intact headliner...or at least the backer...you might just have to fab something out of an XJ headliner. If that's even a possibility. The SMS headliner kit is just fabric and a can or two of glue. You can get the fabric at a fabric store (JoAnnes etc) for cheaper

Just a shot in the dark here, since you did not post a picture of your wheels...Gray?...Aluminum?

Have you tested the "new" CPS? Where'd you buy it? Anything's possible. Certainly sounds like a CPS issue. Did you route the CPS wire correctly...not laying on the manifold? Melted wire? Too easy to do to without ruling it out.

The verdict is: The fence is not done yet...it's 230 feet of redwood fence, by myself, one paycheck at a time. The roof has a leak at the skylight flashing. I'm working mostly double shifts at work. But...I've officially ruled out the cooling system itself as my problem. I got (swapped) smaller tires to compensate a little for the gearing. As far as I can tell the trans. wiring is making it either never lock the TC or always lock the TC. http://comancheclub.com/topic/40380-facing-my-weakness-electrics/ ...and so it goes.

OK, so far, I've done the sensor ground upgrade - per Cruiser54 - easy enough. Took all of 5 minutes. I've looked over (intensely studied) the TCU wiring diagrams. The converter/brake wire (lt. blue/yellow) goes from the TCU to the ECU via a "resistor pack" and the brake switch...BUT...there's no provision for the lt. blue wire. It seems to terminate at a connector with the blue wire and a ground. I thought it was for the power/comfort, but that one should have 3 wires (one powered, one ground, one for the switch illumination). Mine did not have a power/comfort as it was a 5 speed in it's first life. There is a small connector with a tan, the lt. blue and a ground going in...and just one single wire going to/coming from the ECU harness. I was also successful in isolating the TPS wires from the TCU and making that connection. I had it wired wrong (go figure). I also used a crimp-on in line splice...like I would normally never use. I had assumed the wires had to go through the C101, but they go straight from the TCU to the TPS as far as I can tell. But at least I am getting a reading from the TPS now. I also spliced the reverse light from the 5 speed switch in to the NSS harness...and now they work. Anyone have any insight here?? I'm off to buy a new DMM as my "good one" is shot. I know I'm rambling...but tracing wires and figuring our where they go is definitely NOT my strong suit...I'd rather be swapping axles or welding.

What ever t-stat housing you have now will work. I replaced mine because the flange had a hairline crack in it. The crack was visible on the outside, but I could not see it on the inside...so just to be safe I bought a new one for $12 or so. It's shiny which is super important to me!!

Damn straight! I bought a 25 year old Jeep pickup for $400, then turned around and spent 3K+ plus on it...that's why I'm broke now.... :doh: I love the cannon idea too...or faux missles on a rotating faux launcher. :yes:

You spent $350 (as in Three Hundred and Fifty dollars) for a HORN...so it would sound cool?? :???: Can you PM me your bank account number and Social Security number...oh, and your mother's maiden name. :brows:

Crap...I need the front half!!

I've converted two Renix Jeeps to open and deleted the HCV on both with no ill effects. I used the molded hose for a 97 on both as well. I have to remember to ask for 92-96 cooling parts, except for the t-stat housing. The 90 XJ has a 92 t-stat housing from the JY, the 88 has a new 88 t-stat housing. The 90 XJ has a plug/petcock in the sensor hole (you won't need that sensor as it won't work for the e-fan). Note: The 88 housing allows for the t-stat to be installed backwards, FYI, the spring goes in the block. The 88 housing is also a bit larger inside, other wise identical flange & bolt holes

No LOL about it

Thanks, both good links and advice. I kind of felt a bit stupid feeling like I had to "practice" soldering, but now I don't. I have my "soldering board" set up in the engine bay so I have a good base to work on, and avoid dropping crap left and right. I am also using a fly tying mag glass/clip set up that my Dad had. Makes it much easier to hold the wires than trying to do it with my fat stubby fingers. Going to dive in to this in the next couple weekends...any more tips & tricks are welcome.

I'm about to delve in to the strange and frightening world of auto electrics. I've avoided this like the plague because although I have very limited experience in it. I have been "practicing" my soldering skills and gotten increasingly good results. Two things I think I really need to do and one I just want to do. So, as per usual I'm asking for some help from those who are adept at this type of thing. 1.) I need to re-visit my transmission/TCU/TPS connections. I want to tear it all back to where I can identify and follow each wire, make sure the connections are correct and solid. Currently all my splices are crimp-ons and a few I did with wire nuts (yeah, I know, I know). The result is that my truck runs great...sometimes. Then it seems like it changes overnight, literally. Also, I get NO reading from the square connector at the TPS...I get a good reading at the flat connector. 2.) My fuse block is damaged a bit. The "slots" are weak & loose, because of corrosion and/or just the 25 years. The plastic part is fine (no clutch juice on it, no melted plastic. As a result some things "tweak out" and a little manipulation of the block and fuses "fixes" it, for awhile...the fuses don't blow, they're just not making solid contact. 3). The C101 connecter - where is a diagram/schematic of it, what goes through it and is eliminating it a possibility and is there a write up on it anywhere AND how hard would it be to do it?? Oh, and would it even be worth it. I pulled it apart a couple years ago and cleaned it up, shined it up and smeared it with grease. 4.) My NSS is busted...as in...the plastic part is cracked. I can start it in any gear, the reverse lights don't work. So my question on the NSS is: Does the NSS affect the running of the transmission, the TPS, the TCU etc. Does it have any effect on the shifting i.e. the transmission knowing what's going on with the engine and/or wheels.

I know people are sometimes a little sketchy about giving their personal info but it should be suggested...if not required to put a location in the avatar area. If they write in Denver, Little Rock or Sacramento...I doubt if the boogeyman will track them down

That pic LOOKS like it's got a folding hinge in the "crotch" at the mount. However, it's likely chromed plastic.

:thumbsup:

I don't know how you could possibly identify the source of any leak, or combination of leaks with all the oil all over your stuff. I, personally, would start by a good pressure cleaning of the entire engine compartment, especially the block, valve cover and pan. Then you MIGHT be able to find where the leak originates. If there is only one leak you can concentrate on that. P.S. My Uncle Bob thinks it's the Rear Main Seal

Most of them are junkyard pocket parts. The coil might be worth something...but it's a big IF, since it really does not look like it's in great shape and it's certainly not for a 4.0. The shaft seal looks used and I know I would not buy and install a used seal. Throw them in a box "Jeep Parts - all for $5"...you might get lucky

Don't know, although I got a pile of it out of there. Literally a pile...a good handful of it...I can see thru the condenser now...I put a new OEM radiator in it, still have some things to work out. I'm on a vacation from working on the Jeep Gotta build a fence. Truck is back on the road (around town, anyway) and hasn't overheated, but until I can get it out on the highway the jury is still out.

The stud question may be moot since you may have to move the cross member back...I know I did when I swapped the AW4. I cut the studs off and used the other set of holes behind it...I was going BA10 to AW4...I don't know if you'll have similar issues with the AX15. Is it longer than the Peugot??