ParadiseMJ

I'm ready to go for it. No gussets, no Z's, no sweat. Thanks! When people start telling me something can't be done, or won't work, it makes me want to do it even more. I'll risk it.

I'm still in for the DIY hitch plates. I'm not towing 5K lbs with my MJ. I'm not towing a 25 ft. travel trailer or a Bayliner cabin cruiser with it. I might tow a small trailer with gravel or firewood in it, or camping gear or an aluminum fishing boat and I don't trust the bumper mounted hitch to tow anything I can't physically lift the tongue on...so maybe 200 lbs tongue weight (aka Class I or II at best). My MJ is not a F-250 or a RAM and although some might overload their MJ with the the DIY hitch, the local RV/Hitch guy in town would laugh at the ability and/or safety of my little truck to tow 5K up or DOWN a mountain pass with ANY hitch, he'd tell me that the DIY plate design that terrawombat and krusty have come up with is exactly what he would do if I asked him to make me a hitch...and give it a Class III rating I am, however, very impressed with Jeep Driver's hitch/bumper fabrication job...which is nothing but bullet proof. I do not possess those skills. Most hitches I've seen use 3 or 4 bolts and do very well. So, I'm just looking for a better solution than a receiver that is only bolted to my bumper...not a tank.

Be sure the flat 4 connector is secure and clean. Have you taken out the sensor/switch and pressed the ball manually to see if the lights come on. AFAIK the switch is not adjustable like the NSS on an automatic trans, so it either works or doesn't. The best option is to replace the switch. Don't remember how much they cost, but on a BA/10 I believe they are not expensive (at least not as spendy as an AX15 switch). I know I have a working BA/10 switch that I put on my BA/10 a month before I swapped the trans for an AW4. It's basically new. If I can find it and you need it I'll mail it to you. PM me and I'll look for it, Otherwise check your local NAPA for the part.

Thanks, this gives me a starting point. Dynatrac still makes a kit but it's listed for Wranglers and CJ's on a D30. But seems easy enough to fab up with my own steel using their design. Looks like it'd raise the spring plate and flipping the shock mounts would pull those up a few inches too. Appreciate the ideas.

The difference is about 2". The 44 sits easily 2" higher than the bottom of the shock mount/plate...on mine anyway. It was just a question. Thanks Hornbrod...that's a better idea.

I was reading up on this post... http://comancheclub.com/topic/47195-3-soa-am-i-crazy/ ...because I'm sick of the shock mounts restricting my ground clearance so much. My MJ is lifted 3" now with a bastard pack made of stock springs, and a full length AAL. The front is also stock springs, with a spacer and an extra isolator. Measures out at 3" front & rear. The shock mounts hang down there so that there is only about 6" clearance on either side. I've been toying with an SOA job, but I really don't want to add all the things I'd have to add (adj. arms, track bar, etc.). So is everyone that is SUA have the same issue? I feel like it a.) looks stupid and b.) seriously limits things like running in ruts or going over rocks...even small ones. What does every one else do??

If you left the shackle hole in there, I'm sure most of us could decide to, and cut/grind it off ourselves if it wasn't needed/wanted. That way you only need one template. If you make a list, or a post for a list of interested parties you could call it Hitch Receiver Plate Deposits if that is allowed. That way people would know right up front that you're not just making a hypothetical list. More of an order list with a deposit required for manufacturing. Like said, thanks for the work.

Yes, you need to keep the floor brackets...then you can adapt just about any seat that fits between the hump and the door (or the console and door)

What the hell am I going to do with all that extra time on my hands now??

Happy Memorial Day... https://www.facebook.com/paradise.california

It's in the tunnel...not the firewall. Mine is an 88.

Yep, I knew it was offset...couldn't remember which side. It looks a whole lot different with the engine/tranny out. So, to the OP, just imagine the engine is out...and there it is, no drilling required :driving:

The hole is already there in the front of the tunnel (it was on mine when I went from BA/10 to AW4). It is a bi#@$h to find but it is there. I looked long and hard for it. It goes directly from the shifter mechanism...straight ahead. To find it I had to lay under the Jeep and stick my hand way up between the firewall and bell housing. A rubber plug, not in the center of the tunnel...a bit offset to one side. Very hard to get to, Once you get to it you will say...ahaa!! The cable was already attached to the AW4 when I got it so I never had to buy one. It seemed fairly short

I'd gladly put up a 50% deposit. Pretty sure others would too. Nobody wants to have you getting stuck with the cost...or unwanted inventory

I could. But I run into the hassle of not having money to buy steel and then the lasers finding time to cut them for me and all that. I'd like to do it and help everybody out and even build the whole hitch for a few extra bucks but it might be a while. I am going to go price a sheet of 1/4" and 2.5" square tubing. And I could see what the lasers could do for me. I just don't wanna cut 20 sets of them and sit on them for years..... I completely understand that. Which is why the commercial hitch makers don't make hitches anymore for the MJ. The only hitches I've found have been for LWB's or integrated into home brew bumpers. I've even found one made out of plate and re-bar, scary. I find myself leery to tow anything more than a small trailer to the dump with my bumper mounted hitch ball. Like said, and thought, in all these 13 pages...I'm in the market for one of these sets. I can weld up the rest of it myself with tubing and a receiver etc. Thanks for doing the legwork by you and terrawombat for the design.

Any interest in MARKETING these?? I would love a pair of these. I don't have a cutter or an engineer, dammit!!

Me too. The "cup" was rusty as was the wire contacts, when I got a new (junkyard) tilt column. The horn used to sound like a sick calf. I also pulled the actual horns, cleaned the mounting point and connectors all shiny & tight and cleaned mud and other crap off the horns. Sounds like new.

Who is Stephanie? Did you ever remove the calipers, like out of the vehicle? I think you got air in there somewhere, maybe when you blew air out the MC. I'd start by bleeding the brakes to see if you can build up some pedal. If there is indeed air in the lines I'd do the whole bleed in the correct order, maybe even flush out the old fluid and start fresh...that is what I would do. Have Stephanie help you. :dunno:

If you swap from bench to buckets...remember to remove and SAVE the floor brackets from your MJ. The XJ floor brackets will not work on the MJ. When you get the buckets, remove the floor brackets and bolt the MJ brackets on the new seat. You can modify from there.

When I disconnect the vacuum line from my MAP sensor my engine runs like total crap. It's not driveable.

http://comancheclub.com/topic/47046-tail-lights-vent-windows-and-more-06058/

Since they're not made anymore you'll have to source one by: Junkyard, Ebay, or find one on the for sale part of this forum. Ebay will be expensive, even the junkyard may charge you a lot...if you can find one. Best bet is to look here in the classified forum. XJ taillights will not work on an MJ. http://www.ebay.com/itm/85-92-JEEP-COMANCHE-LEFT-HAND-LH-TAIL-LIGHT-TAILLIGHT-STOP-SIGNAL-LAMP-LENS-/181713931989?fits=Make%3AJeep%7CModel%3AComanche&hash=item2a4efe8ed5&vxp=mtr http://comancheclub.com/topic/47046-tail-lights-vent-windows-and-more-06058/ If you go with the pair, you'd be better off. You'd have a spare at half the price. These are not my ads

I'm not a large guy, about average, 6' 185-190 or so...but the MJ cab is not really known for roominess. I put a smaller Grant wheel in my MJ and it gave me a lot more "perceived" room, really about 2". Eventually I took it out and reinstalled the old wheel...just didn't like the feel, but that and a tilt column would likely fix you right up.

Oil pan gasket, crank seal, front of valve cover gasket. If your need to replace the oil pan gasket, the timing chain cover gasket, and/or the valve cover gasket...you'll be money and time ahead buying the Fel-pro rubberized gaskets and not the cheap-o cork gaskets. Mine have never leaked after many years of service. They're more expensive but are the best I've come across. Disclaimer: I do not work for or have any interest in Fel-Pro or any company affiliated with Fel-Pro.

I bought some solid one piece SS acorn nuts for my XJ they were not cheap. I believe I paid around $45 on ebay for 20 of them around 5 yrs. ago because I was tired of the covers coming off. POS design