ParadiseMJ

You may be right about that, the folks that is. Although I've never made a bad deal on CL yet.

Right, the AR changes the height up/down but if you have taller wheels and the same width and AR the finished product will be taller. One inch of wheel should give you 1/2 of height The calculator explains the sizes and application pretty well. I wasn't dissing anyone, just trying to explain how frustrated I was with listings where nobody knows (or thinks about) the measurements of the things they're selling, or even lug patterns. Even when I call them and they say "It has five holes".

I know about the with and aspect ratio. I was looking for this AND trying to figure that if I went with a 16 or 17 I'd be affecting thins much. http://www.roadkillcustoms.com/hot-rods-rat-rods/Wheel-Bolt-Pattern-Cross-Reference-Database.asp?LugCount=5&StudSpreadInch=4.5&StudSpreadMM=#axzz49IqDxjJm Most CL listings just say "fits a Chevy" or "standard lug pattern" ...not very helpful when one is searching for suitable fitment. Thanks guys.

I have LED side markers (corners) and I wired in the blinkers to the front blinkers. they alternate from the front blinkers. No issues. I also have LED backups. Didn't need to change anything. Maybe just dumb luck (with an emphasis on dumb)

My question today is: I'm looking for some used wheels. Is a tire/wheel combination of say a 245/75/16 or 17 bigger/taller than a 245/75/15. I know it sounds like a slam dunk, dumb question ...but, it seems that 15" tires are getting harder to find and are more expensive Also what other vehicles have the 5 x 4.5" lug pattern (I know Rangers do) Thanks

Did you check the fuse?

Yeah...no. I can see why it was given to you. It would cost you way more than it will ever be worth just to get it safe. If I had that in my yard I'd make a nostalgic ivy planter out of it and even then, likely not.

Theres a hole in the tranny tunnel, just back of the firewall. It's a bit of a pain to find but it's there. I'll try to get a picture of it tomorrow. I have my tranny out so it's very plain where it is. So it routes straight from the shifter, forward thru the hole (under the carpet) and curves around to the gear selector on the tranny. The firewall by the booster is for a column shift. More later.

Winner! I thought it felt like a torque converter (or that it was completely out of fluid). Mostly because it didn't show any tranny symptoms like slipping or chunking and no bits in the fluid. Took it to the local tranny guy. He doubted it was the tranny, he "tested" the torque converter. Told me it was shot. The "snap ring" or spring piece was actually part of the old starter that I replaced a month ago. Now waiting for parts.

I was so happy to see a response I missed the link. Yeah, only $5.99...even I can afford that. Answer: It didn't have one, I noticed it after I pulled the tranny last week to replace the torque converter. I didn't know it needed one until I started looking at the parts catalog. Doh! Anyway, thanks a lot for the link and info.

That's it. Do you have this?

Looking for the backing plate, mounting plate for flexplate, 4.o L, AW4, 4x4 1987+ Does anyone have this part available.

Is krustyballer still making hitches. I really love mine. Easy install and tough as nails. Check the vendor forum. He was selling hitch plates and whole hitches, I got a full hitch shipped cross country for $300 ish, total, ready to bolt in (and the bolts came with it). Might be more over the border. Worth it if you plan to tow alot.

So I finally go the tranny out. I pulled the torque converter, nothing out of the ordinary...but...I was told to try to spin the stator inside the TC. Spins freeley in both directions. Question is, SHOULD it spin freely in both directions.

You might actually be better off finding a headliner board out of a similar pickup size/design of another brand. Like an S-10 single cab or a Ranger single cab. Haven't researched it, but seems like it'd be a better starting point than cutting up an XJ headliner and trying to glue it back together. The curve of the back of the MJ cab is nothing at all like the back of an XJ. Just throwing that out there.

I'll try to trace the wires when I get the tranny out this week. I'm wondering if I can splice that in to the wiring for the vacuum switch (since there are t-case no vacuum lines there anymore).

I ran mine (Renix) without the "shield" after I did the head. In the summers here the temps run around 90 to 100 just about every day It partially melted the plastic wire loom material, so I put it right back on. I even have two of them and considered sandwiching them to add a bit more protection, but found that the one was fine and effective. I kind of like it being there anyway since my feeble fingers regularly drop screws and nuts, and with it there I don't have to go hunting for parts.

I stuck the gear from the old 21 spline into the 23 spline and hooked the cable (not wires) to that. I get a good reading on my dash for speed....so I don't have an electric speedo. Never the less, there is still the connection from the t-case to the tranny, but I don't know if those wires feed in to the harness, as for a post CAD front axle or just end. It'd be nice if it could turn on the 4wd light.

I have a two wire connector on my t-case and the (what I think to be) the corresponding pigtail coming off the AW4 transmission. This is a 92-94 tranny and t-case. Plugged in or not plugged in doesn't seem to do a thing. The rest of the truck is Renix. can anyone tell me where the wires end, does it go through the trans harness?

...and the frame rails on the truck are farther apart than XJ "frame"rails. It would seem that there would be plenty of room under the bed. But there isn't, really. But anything's possible with time and money. It'd be easier (and better IMO) to make or buy an MJ skid plate...if just an installed skid plate is what you're after. ...and, there are...or should be threaded mounting holes already under your bed for a stock MJ skid. So you could use those for reference if you choose to make a skid.

There the vacuum supply line going IN to the blimp, and should be a smaller line coming OUT. Two in and two out if you have the football style and it's properly teed off. The diagram is for a post Renix vacuum system (being that the cruise is on the passenger fender). The more vac lines, the more possibility for leaks. All of the lines on the left (passenger) side of the engine affect only the cruise, heater valve and HVAC door operation and have little if anything to do with the "running" of the engine, unless you have a huge leak in the SOURCE line from the manifold. You should find a black and pink line coming out of the firewall. One goes to the heater control valve, the other goes into the dash. If you have a line disconnected or leaking to or between any of those, even if you vacuum TO the dash, it could be compromised by a small leak in the cruise line or anywhere in the larger SOURCE line coming from the manifold. The smoke test will find even the tiniest leak. Cigar smoke works best IMO. If you find leaks, you're better off replacing the lines instead of taping, splicing or just repairing them. Bulk vac line is cheap, cheap. Just sayin".

Most of the interior parts swap over from XJ to MJ. I got everything I needed except a rear carpet board, which was easy to make myself and the e-brake pedal. I already had all the b-pillar trim and bought new cabin lights off e-bay. Everything else is XJ. My engine (a 4.0 L) and drive train was intact, but even the majority of that is XJ crossover stuff too. XJ's are readily available over a big range of years. Alot of Renix era trim can be upgraded using later model stuff.

Just go to a decent auto parts place like NAPA...Where they still use books to look stuff up and employees with greasy hands. If you have a radiator shop around, hit them up.

Are you sure it's engine oil? Could it be leaking from the front (timing cover) and running back? Could it be oil from your transmission ? Internal slave ? Losing any fluid from the clutch master cylinder ? If it's from the transmission, you'll need to drop the tranny to replace the front seal (or if it's from the slave inside the bell housing. you'd still need to drop the tranny) Open up the inspection plate on the front of the tranny and feel inside to see if it's wet.

I'm looking for a donor now. I hate that I have to be at work while I could be doing this, have the drive shafts out today. I have to get it done as time, light and old body energy holds out. Front and rear ends drained and open, all that looks pristine. Bottom side of tranny doesn't show much...but it too is clean as a whistle. Loosened up the flexplate bolts...those sumbiches were tight