jdog

ever see this code? ACE-Jeep 60th Anniversary Edition

That is NICE, it is also loaded 10/9/89 build date mjjl61- body code actual Canada truck APAS-Monotone Paint BGAS-Power Front Disc/Rear Drum Brakes CSRS-Passenger Assist Handles DHNS-Command-Trac Part Time 4WD System DJHS-230MM Front Axle DMMS-3.07 Rear Axle Ratio DRJS-175MM Rear Axle GACS-Tinted Glass Windows GBBS-Tinted Windshield Glass GCBS-Front Door Tinted Glass GEHS-Fixed Door Vent Glass GNAS-Rear View Day/Night Mirror GTZS-Manual Remote Mirrors JDBS-180 KPH Primary Speedometer K3WS-STRIPE/BADGE/MOLDING/COLOR LAPS-Shift Indicator Warning Lamp LBCS-Glove Box Lamp LCJS-Overhead Ambient Surround Lighting LMAS-Halogen Headlamps LMKS-Daytime Running Headlamps, High Beam MB1S-Black Front Bumper MDAS-Front License Plate Bracket MMCS-Rear Door Solid Window Insert MMGS-Belt Moldings NAAS-Federal Emissions NBKS-EVAP Control System NF2S-18.5 Gallon Fuel Tank NHKS-Engine Block Heater QW7S-Bright White Clear Coat SFAS-Standard Duty Front Shock Absorbers SGAS-Standard Duty Rear Shock Absorbers TBCS-Compact Spare Tire TBMS-Tire Carrier Winch XBSS-Pickup Box YACS-Build To Canada Mkt. Specifications Z5AS-GVW/Payload Rating 1ABS-Canada Dealer Retail124SZone 24-Canada-Prairie *Q7-Cloth Low-Back Bucket Seats- SA-Charcoal ACE-Jeep 60th Anniversary Edition ADAA-Light Group ADH-Heavy Duty Electrical Group ARM-Radio AM/FM Cassette BA1P-DESCRIPTION NOT AVAILABLE BCYP-95 Amp Battery CACP-Low Back Bucket Seats CDBP-Reclining Front Seats CKAP-Carpets - Floor and Cargo Area CUFA-Full Length Floor Console DBBC-All Manual Transmissions DDQ5-Speed Manual Transmission EAAC-All Engines ERB-4.0l I6 Engine GFDP-Rear Sliding Window GNBP-Driver Side Illuminated Sun Visor GNCP-Sun Visors w/Illum Vanity Mirrors GRZP-Left Remote Mirror GSZP-Right Remote Control Mirror HAA-Air Conditioning JAYP-DO NOT USE - See JP, KA classes JGBP-Digital Clock JHAA-Var Intermittent Windshield Wipers JJAP-Cigar Lighter KLHP-DESCRIPTION NOT AVAILABLE K2BP-STRIPE/BADGE/MOLDING/COLOR LAJP-Headlamps On Warning Chimes LBBP-Courtesy Lamps LBDP-Ash Tray Lamp LBEP-IP LED Ambient Light Pipe LDHP-U/Hood, Removable Lamp LHDP-Headlamp Off Time Delay LNJP-Front Fog Lamps MBJP-Black Powder Coated Front Bumper MCAP-Rear Body Color Applique MFKP-Body Color Grille MHAP-Black Windshield Moldings MMKP-Lower Grille Surround-Painted Silver NHM-Speed Control PW7-Bright White Clear Coat RAAC-All Radio Equipped Vehicles RAFA-AM/FM Cassette Radio RCDP-4 Speakers SBAP-Power Steering SCGP-Leather Wrapped Steering Wheel SUAA-Tilt Steering Column TAAC-All TiresTRN P225/75R15 OWL Wrangler AT Tires WJHP-15X7 Aluminum Wheels WLZC-All Aluminum Wheels YGAA-Without Billable Fuel Z01P-Rear Spring Group I Z66P-Left Front Group XV Z85P-Right Front Spring Group XIV 3N8A-Drive Away Program Tracking 4CPA-Federal A/C Excise Tax

Unfortunately its to old, when i tried i got a 2014 challenger

nice looking cj

Welcome, nice looking truck there build date: 4/22/89 body style: mjtl61 APAS-Monotone Paint BGAS-Power Front Disc/Rear Drum Brakes BJAS-DESCRIPTION NOT AVAILABLE BKPS-10x2.5 Rear Drum Brakes CKJS-Black Vinyl Floor Covering CSRS-Passenger Assist Handles DGSS-4-Speed Automatic AW4 Transmission DHAS-Lock-Up Torque Converter DMDS-3.55 Rear Axle Ratio DRJS-175MM Rear Axle GACS-Tinted Glass Windows GBBS-Tinted Windshield Glass GCBS-Front Door Tinted Glass GEHS-Fixed Door Vent Glass GNAS-Rear View Day/Night Mirror GUAS-Open JAAS-Instrument Panel JAZS-DO NOT USE - See JP, KA classes JBFS-Instrument Panel Black Bezel JCAS-85 MPH Primary Speedometer JKBS- KDCS-DESCRIPTION NOT AVAILABLE K3ZS-STRIPE/BADGE/MOLDING/COLOR LAFS-Seat Belt Alert-Driver Seat only LBCS-Glove Box Lamp LCJS-Overhead Ambient Surround Lighting LMAS-Halogen Headlamps MB1S-Black Front Bumper MFFS-Black Grille MHBS-Bright Windshield Moldings MMCS-Rear Door Solid Window Insert MMGS-Belt Moldings MMJS-Molded-In-Color Fender Flares NAAS-Federal Emissions NBAS-Underground Calibration NBKS-EVAP Control System NDAS-Catalytic Converter NF2S-18.5 Gallon Fuel Tank QQ9S-DESCRIPTION NOT AVAILABLE RACS-AM MTR Radio SCBS-Perforated Steering Whl SFAS-Standard Duty Front Shock Absorbers SGAS-Standard Duty Rear Shock Absorbers TADS-Tires TBCS-Compact Spare Tire TBMS-Tire Carrier Winch WJKS-15X6.0 Styled Steel Wheels WMCS-Open XBSS-Pickup Box XFAS-35F Protection Anti-Freeze YAAS-Build To U.S. Mkt. Specifications Z1AS-GVW/Payload Rating 1AAS-U.S. Dealer Retail165SZone 65-New Orleans Optional Equipment *F2-DESCRIPTION NOT AVAILABLE -Q8-DESCRIPTION NOT AVAILABLE BAYP-105 Amp Alternator BCYP-95 Amp Battery CBAP-Straight Back Bench Seat DGB-All 4-Speed Automatic Transmissions DHTP- EAAC-All Engines ERB-4.0L I6 Engine GRVP-Left Manual Mirror HAA-Air Conditioning PQ9-DESCRIPTION NOT AVAILABLE RAAC-All Radio Equipped Vehicles RCAP- SBAA-Power Steering TAAC-All Tires YGEA-5 Additional Gallons of Gas Z01P-Rear Spring Group I Z59P-Left Front Spring Group Ix Z78P-Right Front Spring Group VIII 5ALA-DT-Vehicle Family Codes have been re-used

picture of said area of bearing

did you wash the engine when you changed the parts?

dunno if i've every seen anything plugged into that port

to make it act up again, you gotta figure out the factors that is causing it to run poorly, whats the weather like, how long have you been driving, what kind of driving, stop and go or steady traffic?

borrowed from Dons post The throttle position sensor is connected to the throttle shaft on the throttle body. It sends throttle valve angle information to the PCM. The PCM uses this information to determine how much fuel the engine needs. The TPS is really just a simple potentiometer with one end connected to 5 volts from the PCM and the other to ground. A third wire is connected to the PCM. As you move the accelerator pedal with your foot, the output of the TPS changes. At a closed throttle position, the output of the TPS is low, about a half a volt. As the throttle valve opens, the output increases so that, at wide open throttle, the output voltage should be above 3.9 volts. Testing can be performed with an electrical meter. Analog meter is best. You are looking for a smooth sweep of voltage throughout the entire throttle band. While slowly opening and closing the throttle, take note to the movement of the voltmeter needle. There should be a direct relationship between the needle motion to the motion of the throttle. If at anytime the needle moves abruptly or inconsistently with the movement of the throttle, the TPS is bad You should have 5 volts going into the TPS. At idle, TPS output voltage must be greater than 200 millivolts. At wide open throttle (WOT), TPS output voltage must be less than 4.8 volts.. The best is to use an analog meter (not digital) to see if the transition from idle to WOT is smooth with no dead spots. With your meter set for volts, put the black probe on a good ground like your negative battery terminal. With the key on, engine not running, test with the red probe of your meter (install a paper clip into the back of the plug of the TPS) to see which wire has the 5 volts. One of the other wires should show .26V (or so). The other wire will be the ground and should show no voltage. Move the throttle and look for smooth meter response up to the 4.49 at WOT. Perform the test procedure again and wiggle and/or tap on the TPS while you watch the meter. If you notice any flat spots or abrupt changes in the meter readings, replace the TPS. The TPS is sensitive to heat, moisture and vibration leading to the failure of some units. The sensor is a sealed unit and cannot be repaired only replaced. A TPS may fail gradually leading to a number of symptoms which can include one or more of the following: - NOTE: The throttle position sensor is also DIRECTLY involved with transmission shifting characteristics! It should be verified early in the troubleshooting process, when a transmission issue is suspected! • Poor idle control: The TPS is used by the ECU to determine if the throttle is closed and the car should be using the Idle Air Control Valve exclusively for idle control. A fault TPS sensor can confuse the ECU causing the idle to be erratic or "hunting". • High Idle Speed: The TPS may report faulty values causing the engine idle speed to be increased above normal. This is normally found in conjunction with a slow engine return to idle speed symptom. • Slow engine return to idle: A failing TPS can report the minimum throttle position values incorrectly which can stop the engine entering idle mode when the throttle is closed. Normally when the throttle is closed the engine fuel injectors will be deactivated until a defined engine RPM speed is reached and the engine brought smoothly to idle speed. When failing a TPS will not report the throttle closed and fueling will continue causing the engine to return to idle very slowly. • Engine Hesitation on Throttle Application: The TPS is also used by the ECU to determine if the driver has applied the throttle quicker than the Manifold Air Pressure sensor can read. The fueling is adjusted acordingly to cope with the sudden increase in air volume, however a faulty sensor can cause the ECU to ignore this data and the engine will "hesitate" when applying the throttle. In extreme cases with the engine at idle, a sudden application of full throttle can stall the engine

Don't blame ya there, only reason i asked about a cap, wondering about condensation. next would be test the tps, and reverence voltage, but if we can figure out a way to get it to do it so you can test it without being on the side of the highway, we just have to figure out what triggers it.

did you change the cap at the same time?

my apologies, I only did it as it seemed as tho no one wanted to help. But if we want to continue on this thread that is no issue as well. most people will not respond when it is directed at someone that is not them ok here we go 12 and 55 are permanent codes, they will always pull up in the system, 12 is loss of battery or battery disconnected, and 55 is end of codes. the way it is being described it is a heat issue, so, other then throwing parts at it have you done any tests? What does the temp gauge say? last time a tune up was done (plugs wires filter)?

If you take it apart be caulk you don't lose the check balls or the locations they came out of

Should just be steel plates and check balls, no rubber in there

Suppose I should

FYI here's what the headlights look like working

IT RUNSSS!!!! and it doesn't kill all the mosquitoes within a 5 mile radius of it. Seriously the motor that came out had bad rings and would just smoke bad. got a few bugs to work out but initial fire was good.

top is the cruise control module, bottom is keyless access iirc could be used for switchs

perfect, just good enough for me to see the codes Pete

bump, looking for dealer codes

anybody have a bread or roll recipe?

looking good

might start a new thread instead of bumping a 4 year old one, Don has passed and Tex hasn't been on in a couple years

don't think, know and nope, thats per the chryslers manual, you don't want them tight