Dzimm

Yes they do. Like Schardein said above, there are some small differences but they are the same size.

When I stripped the headliner in my 98 xj, I just peeled the fabric off, then used thick gloves and rubbed the glue off the backer board with my hands because it was so degraded. The glue was almost like damp felt but it rubbed off fairly easily.

I don't know of any guide but you have to remove all the trim that borders the headliner and it will come off. - remove visors and retainer clips - remove any grab handles - remove the lower kick panels if removing a-pillar trim completely - remove completely or pull loose the a-pillar trim - remove the rear trim pieces - remove or loosen the top of the b-pillar trim - lift the edges up over the retainer plates above the doors Once all the trim is out of the way, it can be pulled out the passenger side door pretty easily. Just take your time and it will make sense.

I agree with dirty about the driveline swap. Sacrifice the rust bucket to better the 2dr. Then sell off parts, keep some for spares, and scrap the rest of the 92. Honestly if you sold that 92, the buyer would pull the driveline and scrap it more than likely anyway. After the swap, either keep or sell the 2dr and you could make a larger profit.

Well its finally starting to warm up around here so I got the MJ out and stretched its legs this weekend. Looked over it real good to make sure all was well from sitting most of the winter. Everything checked out OK so I loaded it up with everything and took it down to the valley for some plinking and clay shooting with the 12ga on Friday and then to sight in my new scope for the AR today. In the coming weeks we will hopefully start seeing Temps in the highs 50s and into the 60s so I'll be doing oil changes all around and start back up with the MJ build.

That's a great score! The junkyards around here have never seen a Comanche and those that have, haven't seen one in years. Most don't have more than a couple XJs at most anymore, if any.

Finally got around to installing the oil pressure gauge. Screwed it right into the dash and cut up a redbull can to make a shroud to protect it from water because I'm sure for $20, it's not waterproof. All I've got to do is hook up the wires for the backlight. Also finally got the Zuki airborne! Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk

In that case I'd say you've got a leak in the tank or a hose that enters the tank and you need to inspect behind your brake drums to see what all is going on in there.

If it's coming from your fuel tank you probably have a hole in it somewhere. Your rear wheel locking up would be completely unrelated to the hiss.

Is it a constant hiss even when not moving? I may be confused by what you mean by hiss.

If you couldn't tell already, this thing is going to be a cobbled mess of function over form... The exhaust broke yesterday while having some fun and man is this thing loud with no exhaust after the cat. I just took a piece of old exhaust tube and cut slots to make it fit over the larger pipe, then used the leg of a tomato cage to tie the exhaust back up. It isn't a tight seal but it isn't super loud anymore and it hasn't fallen off after an attempt at jumping the Zuki so it hopefully is a permanent fix. Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk

Pull the brakes apart and see what they look like. More than likely you have something out of place in the drum or your parking brake could be way too tight.

Yup! Body on frame with solid rear axle and independent front. Coil springs on all 4 corners. I would still consider it a death trap but yeah it must have rolled just right because the frame seems to be straight and the suspension is relatively untouched aside from the front passenger. If it was unibody, I never would have attempted this.

According to my buddy, who's brother was given multiple tockets for driving a non-legal race car on the street, you are required to have wipers but not a windshield. I find that super weird but wouldn't surprise me with how stupid some laws are. The Zuki does still have working wipers though so it's good there. Anyway I've been looking into my options for a windshield. Polycarbonate (Lexan) - would cost about $125, is hard to remove scratches, and could turn yellow from uv rays but is super easy to work with and also super strong and bullet proof when thick enough (would be cool to have a few decorative bullets lodged into the corner of the window). Plexiglass - would cost around $65, is easy to remove scratches, stays super clear, stronger than glass but not even close to the strength of PC, and is hard to work with because it will shatter and create very sharp shards under pressure. Factory glass windshield - would cost whatever the JY wanted, I'm guessing still over $100, and is likely to crack from rocks or impacts this car will take. Also I'm not sure how to attach it since it will only have a roll cage because the windshield frame is too badly mangled to hold a windshield. Full faced helmet, or open faced helmet with goggles - still not 100% sure if windshields are required, I also have a huge head so this would be super expensive. In reality I should buy a helmet either way..

My ultimate goal is to make this thing road legal to the point I can drive it, on back roads, from A to B to transport it short distances. Other than that, there really isn't a point other than to clean the look up a just a bit.

Thanks! It's definitely an absolute blast.

I have been contemplating what to do for the front end for a while. I wanted to just do a mesh grill but there is really no good structure to it anymore so I went a different route. I had an XJ front end that was in pretty bad shape so I cut that down to the size I plan on cutting and tubing the front. 4 screws hold it to the sheet metal and the thing doesn't budge. Currently it's held together in the middle by duct tape, eventually I plan to use fiberglass and attach it properly, but we'll see if that ever happens. It is missing the passenger side marker lenses and the trim piece so I'll have to source those. Since the Zuki had a similar light wiring setup, I was able to wire all the XJ lights into the existing wiring and all the lights work. I did plan on using my old LED headlights on it but after spending an hour being confused by the readings on the multimeter, I realized that this thing switches polarity on one of the wires when switching between low beam and high beam. This basically means I can only use the LED lights on high or low beam but not for both.. That just means I need an ebay light bar for at night. Sent from my HTC U11 using Tapatalk

I'm almost positive I've seen 2 sizes of sunvisor in XJ/MJ. Perhaps you just need the shorter ones. I've got some gray ones out of a 97 XJ that shouldn't contact your mirror, PM me if interested. As for the bumper, if you are looking for a real nice steel bumper, check out Krusty in the classifieds (vendors) section. Otherwise the go to factory style replacement is made by FEY and can be had for around $100. It's just a universal truck bumper that comes with brackets to fit the MJ. Just make sure you get the MJ one if you go this route. Coils and shocks you are gonna hear a lot of opinions on what's best. For me it comes down to how much I want to spend. Anything will be better than the worn out 20+ year old ones on the truck. I typically stick to the cheaper side, since that's what I can afford, and have used both Rough Country and Rusty's. The Rusty's definitely rides a little better than the RC ones but either will get the job done on the cheap. There are definitely better options out there, just look around and really base it on what you can afford or want to spend.

Could potentially just cut all the wheel wells out of an XJ and piece together an arch. Wouldn't be too complicated.

Push the inner and outer sheet metal together and weld up the seam. After that you'll have to look at the cutout flare options and hope it's not cut too far or build your own. Edit: the more I look at it, the more I think you'll have to make your own flares. That was cut really far.

I did mine with a couple coats of cheap bedliner (only because that's what I had) then did a few coats clear coat over it. Still looks great. Clean them up really well and then tape over the main sections and spray. If you want a more flat look, just do 1 or 2 coats of clear. The last picture is about 4 months after painting the truck. The lights faded to a little more flat but still look great!

Do that with a 4wd truck and make a PTO setup for the rear.

man that visor looks soooo good.

No unfortunately its all one unit and no longer available. Your best option is to diagnose and repair the unit you have. You can test your gauge works before pulling the fuel assembly just to be sure it's not the gauge itself. If you do need a replacement fuel pump assembly, good luck on your search. Definitely agree with DirtyComanche, upgrade the axle if it still has the Dana 35. There are threads floating around that will help you identify the axles. I myself did a C8.25 from a 98 XJ and it was very straight forward. The 97+ XJ axles are stronger than the 96- ones and super easy to find. Since the lift kit you want has the perches, the only other things you need for the axle swap are cutoff wheels and a welder. If you do swap for an XJ axle, cut off the shock mounts and use the MJ ones and make sure to relocate the perches because they aren't in the same spots. If you can find a factory MJ D44 or AMC 20 like Dirty mentioned, they are direct swaps (again, good luck finding those).