Dzimm

Finding pictures was easier than I thought. Not sure if this is real as this truck has been Photoshoped before but this is big door with extra cab behind it. Here's a listing for an extended cab MJ. Judging by the roofline it appears this is the nose of a 2dr XJ mated to the rear of an MJ. http://www.jeepcomancheforsale.com/1986-custom-w-extended-cab-camper-shell-calexico-ca/

I seem to recall seeing an extended MJ like you describe. May need to do some deep Google image searching to find it tho. I'm not familiar with the differences between a lwb and swb frame rails but you may get away with using a lwb and extending the cab a foot and replace the bed with a swb bed. Basically transferring the extra foot you get from using the shorter bed to the cab. I feel it may be easier to just chop the section out of the XJ unibody as one piece and splice it into the MJ, much like the 4dr versions but only the rear portion of the 2dr door. That way your only real fabrication work would be the roof and floor pan and wouldn't need to touch the bed at all.

That's the AC condenser. The factory trans cooler is built into the radiator. Some that had the towing package or similar optioned would have an external trans cooler that was much smaller like Green Mesa XJ posted. Aftermarket trans coolers come in all sorts of shapes and sizes and would look similar to that ac condenser but they are also much smaller, often only about 12"x10".

I couldn't find it earlier and made a separate post so don't feel bad. Decided to just find the darn thing after multiple posts came up. Indeed we are pretty much obsessed.

Found the thread and figured I'd bump it since movie MJs have come up a couple times recently. MJ in the background of Ghostbusters 2

Love this. In highschool my buddies and I were cruising around town and found a cop sitting behind a wall. Coming back up the same road a while later, car full of very very high stoners pulled up next to us at a light making faces and whatnot at us. Race off the light and slam the brakes half a block before the cop. We circle back around and pass the traffic stop for them to flip us off and yell something while the cop was standing at their window. Not sure what happened to them but it was great. I seriously wonder sometimes if people just like to be stupid.

I would agree that some clarification should be made on DI for situations like this but I feel as though most countries wouldn't want more clarification because it would then make retaliation that much easier. Say they clarify that assault would result in arrest, a diplomat from country A assaults someone in country B and gets arrested. Now country A says that a diplomat from country B assaulted someone in their country and now arrests said individual as well. Is this fair at all? No, but it would happen more frequently and cause more frequent tensions between countries. It seems as though it's easier for countries to just "trust" foreign diplomats not to break laws to allow diplomats better security in all countries. It's one of those situations you have to take the lesser of two evils and I think it's easier to sweep crimes under the rug rather than deal with constant problems.

You will want the swb bar. They are different sizes for swb and lwb.

Dang, if only they were closer.

^100% this for me as well. Every few months my Jeeps lose power when turning the key. Clean the terminals (mostly the ground) and fires right up. Have had the blue top Optimas in the blue truck for a couple years and not once have had to clean them.

I'd imagine it would be quite low as far as gains if it did run with the factory ecu. Maybe that's what the low gain number is.

Ahh missed that part. That's what I was afraid of. Makes it not so appealing anymore.

So stage 2 is 25-40hp then... Is it a complete kit with everything for it (I imagine you'd have to buy seals and stuff for stuff you take off)? Does the computer adjust for that or require the performance one?

Does anyone know what the stage 1 and 2 cams do as far as performance? Id be curious what the Dyno graphs look like and what all is included in the can kits.

love the Ghostbusters, notice new stuff every time I watch!

I couldn't find the thread about movie MJs but just noticed there is an MJ in the background in Ghostbusters 2.

Also make sure the speaker doesn't have a large guard over the cone. Some speakers have that guard that cannot be removed and will interfere with the door panel.

Definitely post up your results. Could save us a lot in paint if it works!

Never would have thought to use that to clean paint. I know it eats some paints and stuff. Wonder if one could use that on an entire vehicle to clean it up and then reclear..

Looks fantastic! What's the secret?

Looks good. Have a link to that roof rack? I can't find it

To do list: - Have AutoZone install my wipers - LS and 1 Ton swap a DJ5 In all seriousness this is very cool! What did you start with as far as condition? Post more pics so we can see all your progress!

This^^^ just another summer storm for us. Hate to see people impacted though.

I made my own tool to seat the seals so I've never seen the proper one in person but that appears to be correct and yes it's just to get the seals seated squarely. It really isn't a long job, like mentioned by AZJeff, the c-clip style is a very quick and easy job. Maybe 2 hours if the seals cooperate. I would however recommend just getting the gasket instead of using rtv. I've done both methods and only ever had leaks using rtv, plus the gasket is just so much easier and faster. No pia cleanup ever again. Make sure you get yourself a couple cans of brake clean to clean everything in the diff because it will be dirty, just don't spray it directly into the bearings to keep the oil in them. Axle swap would be nice but you are looking at a weekend project with that and a few hundred dollars at least. The used axle you buy may need a repair done such as these seals, also more than likely would need new brakes. Regardless you'll be buying new ubolts, probably new brakes, brake fluid, new spring perches (positioning and welding the perches), ECT. It's more involved than what it seems on the surface. Not a hard job by any means, just much more time consuming and costly than inner axle seals. Plus by keeping up with the maintenance on the D35, the risk of blowing it up is lower. Like Eagle mentioned, you could risk getting gear oil into the brakes rendering them useless if you let it go. Granted one slipping rear brake won't do much as the fronts do most of the work but you have to weigh the risks with that.

I've done the seals on my D30 and it was pretty straightforward. If your pinion seal is not leaking, I wouldn't worry about it right now because you can cause a lot of issues if the pinion isn't reinstalled properly, just not worth it imo. If it is leaking, you'll want to do it too while you are in there. The inner axle seals are pretty straightforward though. You will have to remove the diff/ringgear as well as the axles. Be careful when removing the diff because there are shims on either side that must be reinstalled on the side they came out!!!! The seals can be easily knocked out with a broom handle going from the outside in. When putting the new seals in, you'll need the tool because they must be centered and you'll want to do both sides. It takes patience to get the seals started as it's a tight space. Make sure to clean the axle tubes out good before installing the new seals and be careful with the bearing and sealing surfaces. If it's a c-clip axle, you'll be removing the center pin of the spider gears to remove the c-clips (easier). If it's a non c-clip, you'd be removing the wheel and brake drum to get at the flange bolts that hold it in place. As for instructions, someone will chime in with the proper instructions or a link to some. I haven't done the D35 so I can't offer specifics on it.