cruiser54

This^^

Why not keep the A904? It has a lockup torque converter. And your gear ratio is higher than the moon.

Unfortunately, the Dana 44 swap involves more work with bearing/seal spacers etc. Not as simple as a 35 or 8.25.

So, they're reachable.

Added the ground to the blower motor? You're doing all the right things!!

Better get that done. No need to melt wires and stuff. What kind of cable end do you have at the speedo?

Tow it. Beats burning it to the ground.

Replacing parts is not a good diagnostic tool. But, it seems you have your mind made up. Good luck.

WHICH bolts snapped off? Hopefully not the ones near the firewall.........

Sounds like you have your mind made up. This would make an interesting build thread.....

CRUISER'S MOSTLY RENIX TIPS IMPROVING BLOWER MOTOR PERFORMANCE NOVEMBER 28, 2015 CRUISER54 28 COMMENTS EDIT On 1984 to 1990 MJs and XJs, the blower motor’s factory grounding point is on the driver side inner fender under the sheet metal screw. This ground is shared with windshield wipers, front windshield washers, rear windshield washers, AC clutch relay, fan control relay, fog lamps, fan motor, headlamps, front turn signals, front side markers, and park lamps. So your blower motor has its ground point 10 feet away from where it is located!! What we’re going to do is leave that ground intact and also ground the blower motor on the passenger side inner fender much closer to the blower motor itself. This will also benefit the other components on the factory ground circuit. Take this opportunity to refresh the factory ground as a matter of course. Remove the screw, scrape the surface to bare metal and reinstall the screw securely. Here’s what I do to get the ground much closer to the blower motor and add another ground point to this overloaded ground circuit. Find the blower motor connector on the passenger side. Red and Black two wire connector. Find a location where the black wire can be made to reach the passenger side inner fender, and cut the wire. You may have to do some rerouting of the harness to achieve this. Take both cut pieces of wire and put them together into a yellow eyelet and crimp. Fasten the eyelet to a place on the passenger side inner fender with a sheet metal screw after applying OxGard to the contact surfaces. Be sure to scrape the attaching point on the fender to bare metal first. Your blower motor will now turn faster and last longer, and the other electrical components on the circuit will benefit from a better ground path.

I have watched MMO dissolve the sludge before. Never turning it crusty. Maybe if it's as bad as yours, you should put 2 quarts in at the same time.

Rest up. IIRC metric tons had the AMC 20 for the most part.

Scaleless is giving excellent advice.

My 90 is. Has limited slip also.

Nope. MMO can clean the inside of the lifters so they work smoothly.

Rotella T4 15-40. wix oil filter. Cheap and plentiful everywhere. MMO added to oil 1,000 miles before next oil change.

Much more sophisticated for sure....

This^^

contact Chad at Golen Engines. He'll likely know.

They're common as belly buttons.

With the battery disconnected of course. Here's a tip on blower motors: CRUISER'S MOSTLY RENIX TIPS IMPROVING BLOWER MOTOR PERFORMANCE NOVEMBER 28, 2015 CRUISER54 28 COMMENTS EDIT On 1984 to 1990 MJs and XJs, the blower motor’s factory grounding point is on the driver side inner fender under the sheet metal screw. This ground is shared with windshield wipers, front windshield washers, rear windshield washers, AC clutch relay, fan control relay, fog lamps, fan motor, headlamps, front turn signals, front side markers, and park lamps. So your blower motor has its ground point 10 feet away from where it is located!! What we’re going to do is leave that ground intact and also ground the blower motor on the passenger side inner fender much closer to the blower motor itself. This will also benefit the other components on the factory ground circuit. Take this opportunity to refresh the factory ground as a matter of course. Remove the screw, scrape the surface to bare metal and reinstall the screw securely. Here’s what I do to get the ground much closer to the blower motor and add another ground point to this overloaded ground circuit. Find the blower motor connector on the passenger side. Red and Black two wire connector. Find a location where the black wire can be made to reach the passenger side inner fender, and cut the wire. You may have to do some rerouting of the harness to achieve this. Take both cut pieces of wire and put them together into a yellow eyelet and crimp. Fasten the eyelet to a place on the passenger side inner fender with a sheet metal screw after applying OxGard to the contact surfaces. Be sure to scrape the attaching point on the fender to bare metal first. Your blower motor will now turn faster and last longer, and the other electrical components on the circuit will benefit from a better ground path.

Completely overrated IMHO.

Wrong again!! CPS tells ECU to fire regardless of anything else!! Fuel injectors are controlled by six drivers in the ECU. I don't know what the hell your problem is. Hating on others that provide CORRECT info? This isn't an ego contest to me. Never has been and never will be. If you think contributing false and misleading info or advice is some kind of God given right that should never be challenged, I warn everyone on CC to count your advice as suspect. Knock that $#!& off, will ya?