cruiser54

http://cruiser54.com/?p=19 And Tip 3.

Make sure all your intake manifold bolts are snug. Looking for vacuum leaks? Spray carb cleaner on suspected leaks. You'll know when you find one.

It's always a good idea to replace the rubber hose/metal pipe in the clutch hydraulic system. The originals got mushy and disintegrated inside. Here's something to try in the meantime. Pump the clutch pedal about 40 times, not going all the way to the floor. Walk away and come back in 20 minutes and see how it is. Those systems, while simple, were the most confounding SOBs to get the air out of.

Me, I'd put a wrench on the bolts and tighten them all up, starting in the middle and working toward the ends. As for the hoses, you could use carb cleaner or brake cleaner. Just look at em and see how they are. They're usually bad.

Intake manifold bolts are VERY prone to loosening, and the 2 hoses under the throttle body prone to disintegrating. Check those first, along with MAP vacuum line. Remove and clean the firewall ground mounting point.

Adding a quart of Marvel Mystery Oil and running it hard. I've had good results holding a warmed up engine at 4,000 RPM for 3 minutes with the MMO in the crankcase.

If it were mine, I would try some other things first. Does the Jeep have a tachometer in the dash?

I don't think your cleaning caused any issues. I think 2 lifters still have some crud in them not allowing oil flow. How long have you driven it like this?

that's what I was wondering. so now, lifters? Cam? confirm this. When started cold and there is the tap noise, if you turn it off and restart it, the noise is the same. Not better or worse.

One more question. Are the pushrods that aren't delivering oil, are they the same length as the other pushrods?

so, you can blow through the pushrods easily?

are the pushrods clear?

start it with the valve cover off and poke around with a stethoscope.

The only one that seems out of spec is #6 intake. Maybe a bent pushrod? You can spin any pushrod that's on a cylinder when at TDC?

You tested them more than once? #6 at TDC, can you spin the intake pushrod?

do this^^ and use a Felpro valve cover gasket. Likely fix it all up.

Good choice

You will hate manual steering, especially with an engine heavier than a 2.46 Jeep motor. Not only is it unassisted, it is like steering a tugboat.

good plan

Could be as simple as doing this Tip and installing a Felpro valve cover gasket. http://cruiser54.com/?p=131

Not sure it's a wiped cam just yet.

Yeah, you could pull the valve cover. I'd be more inclined to dump the Mobil 1 out in favor of Rotella 15-40.

Distributor Sync Sensor, TCU main ground, TCU “Shift Point Logic”, Ignition Control Module, Fuel Injectors, ECU main ground (which other engine sensors ground through, including the Oxygen sensor, Knock Sensor, Cruise Control and Transmission Sync signal. All extremely important stuff. 2 STRONG suggestions regarding the ground system: I prefer to add a #4 gauge cable from the firewall to a bolt on the rear of the intake manifold, either to a heat shield bolt or fuel rail bolt. A cable about 18″ long with a 3/8″ lug on each end works great and you can get one at any parts store already made up. NAPA has them as part number 781116. A further improvement to the grounding system can be made using a #4 cable, about 10″ long with 3/8″ terminals at each end. Attach one end of this cable to the negative battery bolt and the other end under the closest 10mm headed bolt on the radiator support just forward of the battery. NAPA part number 781115.

It sorta is. But, if the battery to engine ground is not up to par, it becomes the SOLE ground. Tip 1. ADD grounds.

Not an issue Dan.