cruiser54

Got an alternator/starter rebuilding shop in your town?I'm sure I do somewhere, just have to find it.Here they are: http://www.yellowpages.com/gadsden-al/mip/bailys-alternator-starter-shop-7616771?lid=296242259 http://www.merchantcircle.com/wilder-alternator-starter-rebuilders-attalla-al well. That was fast. Thanks! What would be the highest output the stock alternator could handle? Also, is rebuilding one something that I could do myself? Check with the rebuilders. It's a CS-130 Delco alternator.

Got an alternator/starter rebuilding shop in your town?I'm sure I do somewhere, just have to find it. Here they are: http://www.yellowpages.com/gadsden-al/mip/bailys-alternator-starter-shop-7616771?lid=296242259 http://www.merchantcircle.com/wilder-alternator-starter-rebuilders-attalla-al

Then the 2 wires going to the reverse switch are touching each other somewhere.

I had it backwards. EGR opens when the solenoid has NO power. So, do you have power to the EGR solenoid?

Check the switch on the transmission. Could be stuck.

Got an alternator/starter rebuilding shop in your town?

With the engine idling, spray some carb cleaner around the throttle body, where the intake manifold meets the head, and those vacuum lines under the throttle body. If there's a vacuum leak, the idle will change.

ECU tells the solenoid to open. but if it sticks open.....

The solenoid allows vacuum to pass from one side to the other when energized. Can you suck through the solenoid with the wires unplugged?

Not common. It shouldn't open unless the ECU triggers it. Should be easy enough to check. Perhaps it's not closing completely when it's not energized.

Grow up. Are you Hillary's campaign manager? Deny and deflect the truth. Personal attacks because the facts are against you. No wonder this country is going down the tubes. Go to your Safe Room and color for a while.......

Yep. I'm pretty new to Jeeps and Comanches........ I like to keep things clear and correct when giving advice. Terminology included. Giving advice without clarity to someone is irresponsible. I had to compensate for your inaccuracies by giving some clarification. That oughta be a crime I guess........ Don't try to turn this around like I did something wrong. YOU used the wrong terms. YOU didn't realize what was being worked on. YOU gave irresponsible advice. I catch ya and I'm suddenly the bad guy.

You're the first one I've ever seen call it a coil pack.

Look near the throttle body.......

A coil pack is a collection of ignition coils that transforms power from the automobile's battery to generate sparks to the spark plugs that drive the engine's cylinders. Coil packs provide better horsepower than distributors used in older vehicles. Kinda like a pack of animals. Renix has an Ignition Control Module which contains one coil and it uses a distributor. It's a lone wolf. There's clarification.

Only use Bosch replacement.

I didn't jump. Only clarified. And as to the link....Huh?

Geez cody. Renix has no cam sensor or coil pack.

Which mod did you do? Drill the hole out?

Yep. Like this: http://cruiser54.com/?p=50

At this point, a replacement would be fine. The 60mm throttle body and giving yours as a core is not a bad idea. www.strokedjeep.com

Or just read Post 8.....

2.5 TPS A Yel/Grn TPS input to ECU B Brn/Tr TPS ground at ECU C Red/Tr TPS 5 volt supply 4.0 TPS A LtBlu TPS 5 volt supply B Brn/Tr TPS ground to ECU C Yel/Grn TPS input to ECU

you can use an auto tps on a manual. just won't usw the trans pigtail. keep in mind the tps difference between 2.5 and 4.0 could be the length of the harness.

do this and no more oil unless motor is shot. http://cruiser54.com/?p=131