Ωhm

That's the way to go for the red lens. Replace both lower single filament with a dual filament and wire it just like the MJ. Low intensity bulbs for running/taillights, high intensity bulbs for (L/R) brake/turn/hazard.

Optional choice over the Standard REM.

https://nickintimedesign.com/

Buy a REM (Renix Engine Monitor).

One (1) picture is worth a thousand (1000) keystrokes. OP said he's rewiring. I can't tell where the MJ harness ends and the Ranger harness begins.

Just a thought, but what if you have a sluggish starter relay or sloppy ignition switch.

The 1156 is a high intensity filament. This bulb should parallel the high intensity filament of the 2057 (Brake/Turn Signal/Hazard). Do you plan on keeping this as part of the wiring? If so, why?

Should also check the connector from the engine harness to the front lighting harness. Cruisers tip shows what you don't want. http://cruiser54.com/?p=35

Good chance that's just the bulb.

Then rear top left turn signal isn't working either.

All rear lighting is functioning properly? Just front lighting is giving you a problem.

Bulb question. Is your double filament bulb (upper) 1157? Is your single filament bulb (lower) 1156?

Link for Phaseout

Brake and Turn Signal share the same circuit. Both use the High Intensity side of the double filament bulb. The Low Intensity side of the bulb is for the parking lights.

You did it the right way, as designed. Only other way is manual ON/OFF valve (Winter/Summer). Also don't forget A/C MAX setting for even more cold.

Dimmer switch has nothing to do with parking lamps. Check all three bulbs (parking lamps) on the driver side. Use/replace with right side bulbs. Do front side marker lamps work?

Welcome to the CC Forum. Is that washed off Canadian geese droppings all over your MJ?

Those are terrible number for fuel pump pressures. Should be as follows: Prime 39psi Running 31psi System should hold 30psi after KEY OFF for at least 30 minuites or more.

Using the 88 Electrical Manual which shows O2 Heater being fed (B+) from the IGN SW (I1). Your voltage measurements show O2 Heater voltage is following the actions of the Fuel Pump Relay. Sorry if I misled you on my requested voltage measurements and sent you on a wild goose chase. I will keep this information in mind and now suspect the wiring schematic as incorrect. The most important thing here is you got B+ on the O2 Heater (which you might have already had) with engine running. Your photo on distributor indexing looks "spot on". REM readings look good, well within the ECU range of authority. Give REM (keep driving it) time to see if LTFT changes.

PS117: Normally Closed- Opens 3-5 PSI

TURN KEY ON. Make sure TURN B/U fuse is good and has B+ on it. Remove Turn Signal Flasher. Check for B+ in one of the two slots. DVOM or Testlight will work here.

With no voltage to the Turn Signal Flasher, need to check the TURN B/U fuse for B+. When you look straight on at the fuse you'll notice two little windows. Measure for B+ at fuse between little windows and ground. KEY ON.

Did you get my EDIT about Turn KEY ON. Hazard are HOT all the time, while Turn Signal Flasher needs KEY ON.

Remove Turn Signal Flasher. Check for B+ in one of the two slots. DVOM or Testlight will work here. Edit: Turn KEY ON.

Clean the EGR and repair MAP hose then see if your back to normal. Maybe no need for a new TPS.