Ωhm

You can slide the relay blocks back or forth to dislodge them and place them in any order you want. Makes me think somebody was doing something at one time.

One (1) of those wires should go to the Fuel Pump Relay (C216_4(87)) or one of those wires should go to Diagnostic Connector D1_6?

Complex loss power today. Needed new transformer. Building back to normal now. I'll check your list and get back with you one or two at a time.

Orange going from the O2 relay (C228_3(87A)) to the O2S.

Check Throttle Body Butterfly Adjustment using Cruiser tip #14. http://cruiser54.com/

Look like no voltage to the O2S.

Yellow is the wire I was tracking. Also suspect faulty O2 Heater Relay.

Sound too high.

Need two (2) more voltage tests. Use the Diagnostic Connector (should have yellow covers on them). Ground DVOM at the battery terminal. KEY ON D2-4 & D2-9. Looking for B+ voltage.

One (1) only O2S.

No big deal, its just the way I'm programmed.

With O2S disconnected and IGN SW in the ON position, measure C229_A(ORN) on the harness side for voltage (B+). Do both of these test.

Measurement should be taken at room temperature. 6 ohms prove good O2S heater.

With O2S disconnected. Measure C229_B(BLK) on the harness side for a path to ground (0 ohms).

Lets hope not.

That's the ground side of the starter motor circuit.

Yes. Similar to this.

At the Starter Relay remove the "I" terminal (should be the GRN wire) and jumper B+ to the terminal on the Relay. Starter should engage, beware of vehicle in gear.

What is the condition of your battery? Poor battery will allow lower current (amps) things to work, but not the starter (high current draw).

What a shame when good intentions (gasket) turn into nighmares. I don't like your story about "bad clunking sound" and "broken ear" on the distributor. Possible over tightening of the hold down bolt. You say you have spark, try a little gas down the throttle and see if vehicle attempts to START.

More air, more fuel. O2S will always attempt to maintain a 14.7:1 air/fuel ratio, within its range of authority, otherwise ECU goes into open loop. High idle is vacuum leak or TPS adjustment.

Did you check O2S heater circuit? Disconnect O2S. On the component side measure ohms between pins C229_A and C229_B. Should read ≈6Ω's.

Check vacuum hose from intake manifold to MAP sensor for cracked, leaky conditions. O2, MAP and TPS are primary sensors used for fuel delivery.

You talking about LH and RH Courtesy Lamps? Should have both.

Are you grounding the Fan motor through the Coolant Switch? Shouldn't the Coolant Switch control the coil side of the Fan motor relay.