Ωhm

TURN B/U fuse is fed B+ from the IGN SW (A terminal). Terminal A is both a KEY ON and ACC circuit. Other things are on this circuit. Do the following items work properly with IGN SW in the ON position and properly in the ACC position? Blower Motor, Wiper Motor, Horn, Radio Also, YR??? ENG???

Not to get into a pissing contest, but yes, you don't need the Headlight Relay Harness. LED's do cut back on current draw considerably. Now let's look at current flow without the relays. Battery, Fusible link, inside the Cab, Headlight Switch, Dimmer Switch, back to engine compartment, finally to the Headlights, then ground. About 20 feet worth of high current travel distance. So with the Headlight Relay, path is Battery, Fuse, Relays, Headlights, then ground. Not so many connectors and components and high current travel distance is now about 4 feet. Control of the Headlight Relays still needs to take the long way, but this low current stuff.

Not in a Closed Loop condition. If vehicle ECU goes Open Loop, no one knows then (Rich or Lean).

Not sure about this one. If it the O2 Heater Relay, could be one wire for O2S Heater, other wire for D2-9. If we're talking about the O2 Heater Relay, KEY ON works, relay needs to be installed. No need for engine to be running. O2 Heater Relay pinout. Pin 1 (30) Yellow Pin 2 (85) Gray/Yellow Pin 3 (87a) Orange Pin 4 (87) Orange/Black Pin 5 (86) Orange

Pin 86 is not tied to 87a. Yellow on pin 86 should be the Fuel Pump Relay.

You can slide the relay blocks back or forth to dislodge them and place them in any order you want. Makes me think somebody was doing something at one time.

One (1) of those wires should go to the Fuel Pump Relay (C216_4(87)) or one of those wires should go to Diagnostic Connector D1_6?

Complex loss power today. Needed new transformer. Building back to normal now. I'll check your list and get back with you one or two at a time.

Orange going from the O2 relay (C228_3(87A)) to the O2S.

Check Throttle Body Butterfly Adjustment using Cruiser tip #14. http://cruiser54.com/

Look like no voltage to the O2S.

Yellow is the wire I was tracking. Also suspect faulty O2 Heater Relay.

Sound too high.

Need two (2) more voltage tests. Use the Diagnostic Connector (should have yellow covers on them). Ground DVOM at the battery terminal. KEY ON D2-4 & D2-9. Looking for B+ voltage.

One (1) only O2S.

No big deal, its just the way I'm programmed.

With O2S disconnected and IGN SW in the ON position, measure C229_A(ORN) on the harness side for voltage (B+). Do both of these test.

Measurement should be taken at room temperature. 6 ohms prove good O2S heater.

With O2S disconnected. Measure C229_B(BLK) on the harness side for a path to ground (0 ohms).

Lets hope not.

That's the ground side of the starter motor circuit.

Yes. Similar to this.

At the Starter Relay remove the "I" terminal (should be the GRN wire) and jumper B+ to the terminal on the Relay. Starter should engage, beware of vehicle in gear.

What is the condition of your battery? Poor battery will allow lower current (amps) things to work, but not the starter (high current draw).

What a shame when good intentions (gasket) turn into nighmares. I don't like your story about "bad clunking sound" and "broken ear" on the distributor. Possible over tightening of the hold down bolt. You say you have spark, try a little gas down the throttle and see if vehicle attempts to START.