jimoshel

:yeah that: Damn, wish I'd thought of that!!

Should have cut that big weed down so we could see the Jeep better. :yes:

I've only worked on two oil rigs in my life. One 20 miles off the Texas coast and one in Northern New Mexico. The pay was good. The work was dirty and hard. When one job is finished you're not sure when or where the next one will be. If you have a good job now, I would suggest you keep it.

Just check the PN and make sure they fit your engine. You'll be good to go. Go to the Auto Zone home page. Fill in the data for your Jeep. Then look up the parts and get the PN.

Don't give up. Even the worst string of bad luck has to end sometime. I have a '87 MJ 2WD that's been my summer DD for the last 3 years and a '86 MJ 4WD that's my winter DD. Only thing I've ever done to either one is fill the gas tank and occasionally check the oil. :thumbsup:

Now that's a bit far, even for me. :yes:

Got it. The rubber mallet did it. Tnx for the tips guys. :thumbsup:

I would of swapped him a Dakota or a S10 straight across for his Comanche. He could chop all day then and I wouldn't mind. Although it does look good.

Can somebody please tell me how to remove the 'T' handle on the AW4 shifter? According to the book it's a press fit and should pull off. Well, I pulled on it and after pulling the Trans, with engine and transfer case still attached up thru the floorboard I decided that wasn't going to get it. I hate to go through the trouble of making up an adapter to use a Porta Power on it. Anybody? :hmm:

Reverse the prop. That's what we do in aviation.

Comanche= Poor mans Corvette

College education, $50K up. Experience, priceless.

When I would drive thru Oklahoma and Southern Kansas I was constantly amazed at seeing an old, abandoned 100-150 year old farm house leaning a little crooked but still standing, while right next to it would be what was left of a new house, built to code, completely scattered across the country side thanks to a twirly whirly. Did I just set a record for the longest sentence on CC?

I don't think just the heat from the ex manifold will ignite starter fluid. However a red hot piece of carbon blowing out will. Ask me how I know.

I have a '94 Explorer I'm parting. The tag on the 8.8 rear say's 3L73. Does this mean it's a locker or just limited slip? :dunno: Also what's it worth?

Get a can of starting fluid and spray it around the intake manifold. If the engine speeds up that's where the leak is.

If you're serious, you got 'em.690 miles Pueblo-Denton. Gonna come after them or want me to ship?

Not knowing your location,,,,,can't even discuss it with ya.

I strongly suggest you DO NOT get a new headliner from a1500ram. I got one from him and after installing it the rest of the truck looked so shabby in comparison I had to redo the seats, floormats and paint it. :yes:

I don't use rock sliders. I grease the rock first.

Could be a bad gauge or dirty connection. Place a volt meter across the battery posts and see what it says.

GEEZZ, I hate Photo Bucket. Does it ever work twice in a row?

Had so much fun with the last one, '88 Wagoneer, so I thought I'd do it again. 1989 Wagoneer, 4.0, AW4, 4WD. Rust free,rub,rub. <a href="" target="_blank">

I have repaired gas tanks using oxy acetylene, wire feed and JB.They all worked equally well. As with anything, proper preparation is the key to a successful weld. As far as VC goes, I prefer metal. However I would not remove a good plastic cover just to swap. Only if it was broke and needed replacing. Get another GC. When welding a gas tank it is critical to remove any and ALL traces of fumes. My method is to completely drain the tank. Run a hose from a exhaust pipe, from a running engine, into the tank. When the tank is hot to the touch it is safe to weld on. Filling the tank with water is not effective.