jimoshel

Find 2 more bolts and don't forget the gas tank. It's fastened to the bed.

Convertable pick ups are nice. If ya really want one use a S10, Dakota or Ranger. Leave the MJ alone. Got a couple S10's I'll trade ya for the Comanchee if you want.

:agree: Only they go behind the truck. Not under it.

Now that is down right dangerous, just inviting trouble. Taking a pic while driving, :roll:

I was cleaning out my latest acquisition tonite, 1989 MJ, 2.5, 5sp, 4wd, LB.The PO seems to have kept ever piece of paperwork involving the truck. It was purchased by a Army officer in 1989 in NC. The dealer decal is still on the tailgate. Next to MI where he attended MSU in aeronautics. Then to Orange County, Ca. Back to Madison WI. To Boeing aircraft in Renton, WA, Chattanooga, TN. Ellis AFB, Las Vegas, NV. Tampa,FL. Boulder, CO.Phoenix,AZ. Walsenburg, CO, where I got it. 223K on the clock and runs as good as the day it left the factory. Received 107 oil changes, 5 sets of tires, 2 alternators, 3 starters, 1 left headlight. That was just the high lights. Also it has the original factory step bumper with a well used 2" ball and electrical connector for a trailer.

On a side note, Has any one ever raised their hood with the motor running,on a really dark night and watched the display? The older the wiring the more colorful the Aura Borealas.

I get $200 for high mileage. Over 200K. $500 for low mileage, Less than 50K. $300-$400 for others. All running and complete.

Same here. I unplugged the CPS connector and made the resistance check. Checked good. Hooked it back up and it ran. Just rubbing the contacts was enough to clean them. A word of caution about getting a non runninig car started B4 buying. I was looking at a 1968 Cadillac I wanted. The seller originally wanted $1600 for it. It would start but would die after a couple seconds and wouldn't start again.He had dropped the price down to $500. After checking it out I jammed the choke open. It started and ran fine. Needless to say the owner immediately raised the price back to $1600. I told him where he could park it. A word to the wise is sufficient.

The carrier bearings can be removed with a bearing remover tool. The pinion bearings needs a arbor press.

Was yer engine running when U changed plugs? :roll: < straight face

HUMPH. Discrimination.

In response to replies to my previous post. I do not advocate or want to encourage the misuse of any vehicle. I have a 1977 J20 for most of my towing needs. I have a 1947 Diamond T for my heavy needs. On this day the J20 was down due to the fact I was working on the engine and it was partially disassembled. The T I had loaned to a neighbor and he hadn't returned it yet. The Dodge had to be out of the storage yard by 4 PM. It was 2:15 when I was notified of this. I did what I had to with what I had. I keep my equipment up and well maintained and like I said. "I took it easy." 'nuff said. Jim

Recently I towed a 790lb trailer with a 4800lb Dodge truck on it ,5590lbs GTW, using my '89MJ, 2.5L,5spd, 4.11rear. I placed the Dodge on the trailer until I got a 2" rear bumper drop, approx. I had to slip the clutch a little to get moving but once underway no further problems. The trailer had electric brakes. Also had the original factory bumper with 2"ball. I did know I had a load but took it easy and had no problems.

A little JD will help make anything more tasty. :cheers:

That I did. Good memory.

That's what the acc position is for. Accessories.Radio, dome light, cigar lighter, etc.

I tried this test on 4 MJ'S and 5 XJ'S. None of the others had a trip reset. Didn't work on any of them. No beep. No meter movement. Nada.

Did you check your horoscope and see what the relationship between Mars and Jupitor was?

Not knowing for sure the where abouts under the hood I would suggest going the fuse block. It has several switch activated empty slots. However I'm willing to bet even money one of the more knowledgeable members will chime in with the info you want. According to the schematic the yellow wire on the diagnostic connector 2 might be what you want.

How can you tell a OEM from after market or one thats been modified to fit?

I've taken old inner tubes (yes, they can still be found) and made what I needed.

Only brutes use brute force. Gentlemen use a BFH !

I would sand the area real good, removing all rust out to 2-3inches past any hole. cover the area with resin, lay fiberglass cloth over the resin, resin over the cloth. A typical fiberglass patch. The longest i've ever seen a patch hold up done this way was 20 years. If none of the holes are over 1/4inch Then JBWeld will probably work. Again, make sure the surface is CLEAN. I like to heat the area after applying the JB. It turns the JB into water, literally, and it flows into every crack, cranny, hole there is and sticks like weld.

Just do one side of the gasket, the side next to the valve cover. This way the gasket stays in place while installing and the cover can be removed with out leaving gasket material on the head.

I've patched several gas tanks using chemicals, JBWeld, Epoxy,etc., Soldering, brazing and welding. Properly done they all work. If the tank is one big rust bucket, anything you do is a waste of time. other than replace it.Pinholes are easily fixed. The most common reason patches fail is because the surface wasn't properly prepared. It has to be clean. All dirt, crud, surface film completely removed down to good, bare metal. Think steel wool or Scotchbrite.