jimoshel

Never thought about it that way. your right. The ones I twisted were just plain rusted on. Original torque had nothing to do with it.Has anyone noticed how much easier, but not as much fun, new cars are to work on over 20-50 year old ones? :cheers:

I've used engine enamals on several projects and was quite pleased with the outcome.Although it wasn't done in laboratory controlled environment so no accurate test results, It did seem to be a little more durable. And to me, the color seemed a little richer. And for the paint gun, go with the HVLP set up. Not the old HP spray system. And darn it, USE A FACE MASK- RESPIRATOR. That stuff will screw up your lungs faster than 3 packs of smokes a day.

The engineer(s) that designed the S10 was a mechanical sadist. This from a guy,me, that just replaced a 700R in a '87 4wd and looking forward to replacing the clutch in a '89. :fs1:

Why grade 8? Your only clamping down a valve cover, not the head. I'm sensitive to this as I have been trying to remove a half dozen or so remains of bolts froze in the frame after I twisted off the heads. So far I've burned up 2 drill bits and snapped off 2 ezee outs trying to remove them and they're only grade 5.

I've seen 2 sets in the pick an pull. The first set was on a '87 MJ Mt. It was getting late and I was tired. I had already pulled the rear axle and gas tank and wanted to get home. Came back 5 days later and it was gone.Three months later I found a set on a XJ. Having learned my lesson I removed them instantly. $5.

:agree: Also I've found that by dropping the drive shaft I can remove, replace the fuel pump without dropping the tank. Most of the tank sealers on the market are primarily for new tank use. Not sealing older, leaking tanks. And for the cost and trouble, just get a new one.

When doing this test, specifically what do the gauges do? Swing back and forth? Peg and return? Go to a specific position and stay?

This is ridiculous. Only a idiot would waste his time reading this crap. Excuse me. I have to back thru it again. I may have missed something. :no: :huh???:

What part? I lived in Raton and worked in Las Cruces, Silver City, Clayton and Los Alamos.

Obviously missing something in my education, Can speak Swahili, Mandarin and Yiddish in Russian but not French. :fool: And speaking of Mexican beer, anybody try their NEGRA MODELO? Pretty good stuff.

Please don't judge all Coloradoans by the drug crazed nuts in Boulder.

Pondering that. :???:

Don't overlook the fact just because it's new it's not the flasher. There are 2 flashers in the fuse panel. Swap them. Try both flashers and turn signals. Then check for dirty, corroded terminals. First all ground s and then connectors. Don't just look. Physically disconnect and look at the terminals and grounds.

Considering what your looking for and the chances of finding one, at a reasonable price, I'd just make one. Fiberglass isn't that hard to work with. I've built complete camper shells, front clips and other parts, and repaired things using 'glass boat repair kits. Just heed the warnings on it's use. Don't breath the fumes, face mask and wear rubber gloves.

As plentiful as they are, why don't you just get one from a XJ and replace it?

Tear it apart and look at it BEFORE you really tear something up. I would blame the throw out bearing first with the pressure plate(fingers) next.

Measure it and see. Try another hitch.A 10in will have more slop than a 3-4 in but still should not have what your describing.

Asleep at the switch again. Not Fedex. UPS. The guy in the Brown truck. Looks like a nice unit. Got a S10 with auto just waitin for me to try it out on tomorrow. :doh:

I have a '77 J20 DD. 4-5 years ago I did a complete brake job on it, front, rear, rotors, calipers, pads, drums, shoes, master an wheel cylinders an new fluid. Before I did the job my brakes were quit, not a sound. After the BJ the front let out with a loud squealing every time I braked. Put a couple hundred miles on it still squealed. Disassembled the front end, inspected every thing. Nothing. A couple thousand miles, still noisy. Disassembled, cleaned everything. Still noisy. Tried a anti squeak goop. No avail. I just live with it. :dunno:

I just got mine about 15 minutes ago. FeDex is on the ball.

I go on the assumption that not every one has access to lots of equipment and or the money to take things to a pro.

2 ways to check a tach. Basically they're nothing but a milliampere meter reading a pulsating inut voltage and giving a display in RPM. Take a ohm meter set on lowest range . touch the leads to the meter, tach. it should peg. Get a filament transformer, may be hard to find now a days. Find a ham operator. he should have one. Connect the 110VAC primary to a 110 VAC socket. Apply the secondary to the tach input, not the meter. Line voltage=60cps or 3600rpm.

A radiator doesn't know, or care, if a system is open or closed. All it sees are 2 big hoses with gook coming in one and out the other. A third opening, on some, is closed by a cap which opens at 15psi.

The tach worked perfectly in the vehicle it came out of. Gauges have needles and needles are mounted on delicate pivots that can jamb, or maybe it's getting faulty signal. Not to hard to check and verify.

Wonder if anybody in that crowd going up would be willing to trade a J20 grill for a MJ MT rear drive shaft?