jimoshel

You can shift in to 4wd at any speed. DO NOT shift from H to L at a speed faster than a crawl, 2-3 MPH.

Some did. It was an option. Any '80's XJ will fit a MJ.

The sending units are different. For the idiot light it is a switch. For the gauge it is a variable resistance. A/C produces condensation which collects as water under the

I drop everything on the floor, Then pick up the truck by the front end and move it back until clear.

Nice looking wall outlet. :D

Why don't you just remove the glove box lock and take it to a locksmith?

Yes. No.

Your XJ trans, TC and FA will bolt right up. The rear springs will not. To use the rear axle you have to move the spring perches.

They fit on the front and back of the glass and not the bottom, right? Sorry couldn't help. Jim

I have restored worse looking and junked out better looking. Good luck which ever way you decide to go with it.

pulled the window on the GA and surprise, surprise. No sliders. Got to thinkin the last glass I worked on was a S 10, so does this look like what you need?

about a year ago I got a package of 5 from the dealer, special order. for $14. Check around. I have a '97 GA 2dr headed for the crusher and if they will work I'll get them for ya. $1 plus shipping. You are talking about the ones fits on the front and rear of the window and slides in the track arent you?

Sounds like a bad bearing, Could be alternator, power steering pump, water pump, A/C if you got it. Not likely anything in the motor, behind the CS pulley. Could loosen the belt and insure it's a accessory and not the engine. Then use the hose trick, After hooking the belt back up again.Watch for the fan blades. Stick one end of a rubber hose in your ear. Hold the other end to the Acc's. Help pinpoint where the noise is coming from.

You can't adjust the valves but you can tighten loose hardware. My rattle was caused by rocker arm bridge bolts working loose.

:agree: There is no reason what soever to engage, disengage The front axle. If you feel you must, adapter cable assemblies can be bought from Ebay and other online sources to manually operate it. They $75. Now, if I can just get a cut from Eagle.

Education; Go to college=big bucks Join Comanche Club=Free

I tried that but it must have counter reacted with the warp, made by Renix, drive cause now when I start out in low it goes backwards. Tried it in reverse to see what would happen and it went up.

How strong is the magnet? That is, if i hold in front of my MJ will it increase my mileage?

I thought of that. Was just seeking verification. It is slightly different from the cards I recently received. Edit; Have to retract that. Just checked. They're the same. :oops:

What's the one without the red truck on it? :D

7/16X24

With my suggested repairs changing pans would be unnecessary.They're permanent repairs. However if he really wants to change pans and is willing to get by with a temporary repair, Then screw it. :D

Just a 'small pin prick' shouldn't be hard to fix. Regardless the method you choose drain the oil until it is below the hole. JB Weld or Epoxy. Clean the surface. Use a good degreaser, paint thinner or alcohol. After getting the crud off use a grinder, sander to rough the metal, 120-220 would be a good choice. You don't want to take metal off. Just clean, rough it. Clean the area 1-2 inches around the hole. Apply the JB or epoxy. let set until cured. Solder. Same prep as above. Use acid core solder. Braze. Same prep as above. Weld. Gas torch will work but go easy on the heat. Personally I prefer not to use open flame in, under the engine compartment. It can be done. Just be carefull. Wire feed welder. One good 2 second zap should do it. I've used all methods described above and they all work, WHEN DONE PROPERLY. Welcom to the club :wavey:

If the field or the armature windings are OK you can rebuild on e for less than $35 bucks, Thats complete, bearings, diodes, regulator. If any of those are good then the cost will be less. I refuse to buy any thing new if I can rebuild the old.

Nice. Thanks.