jimoshel

One of my means of support when I was working was station manager of satellite tracking stations, New Mexico State University and DOD. We could pinpoint a location within 3 meters on the first pass of the satellite and narrow it down with each following pass until the 5th which gave a us a reading of less than a meter. I am familiar with how they work.

You have 2 hoses coming out of the PS pump. One is is a welded pipe and the rubber hose is attached to it with a hose clamp. That's your return line. The other line has a screw fitting. That's your pressure out line. Remove the pressure out line. Now you have a hex head type nut. Remove it. Not sure off hand what size but about a 16-17mm I think. A spring and a regulator will come out. Thats it. Check the spring , see if it's broke. Check the reg, Look for gunk, dirt, shiny metal, dirty fluid. Clean everything. Reassemble. Use fresh fluid. If the old fluid was milky or cruddy looking you might want to flush the system.

CONGRATS ! Glad to see ya got it out without ruining the head. :cheers:

Possible your flow control valve is faulty, either worn or full of gunk. If you have access to a pressure gauge use it. The highest pressure for a 2.5 is 1200psi. If you don't have access then just go ahead and remove the regulator and clean it. May or may not fix it but it at least worth a try.

You're correct on all counts. There is no manual timing adjustments. Follow the book and you will be OK.

A old time radio show, starring Lamont Cranston as 'The Shadow' Who knows what evil lurks in the hearts of men The Shadow knows HEHEEHEEHAWW

I don't think it's a good idea to mix solutions in the middle of a job unless you're absolutely sure of their make up and reaction with each other 99.9% of the time probably harmless. That other .1% who knows? Besides 'The Shadow.' Not gonna gain much if you start off with one solution and then change to another one that neutralizes the first. or has some adverse chemical reaction.

575lbs

A little known fact.... The first testicular guard, the "Cup", was used in Hockey in 1874 and the first helmet was used in 1974. That means it only took 100 years for men to realize that their brain is also important. Ladies.....Quit Laughing. :rotf:

Soak the engine with PB. Forget about the starter until you can turn it over by hand.

Weld? Braze?

Yep. Different transmissions had had different gear sizes on the main shaft, which is where that big gear sticking out goes. With the smaller gears the PTO would fit flush againest the trans case. With larger gears the PTO would sit out away from the case. It needed a spacer to get the proper clearance.

Why do we get blamed for everything?

Had one stubborn one that wouldn't come out with grease or puller. Finally used a small chisel and took it out in pieces. Also the grease works best if it's a bushing, Doesn't work to well if it's bearings.

Looks like it's from any of the GM SM460 trannies, Will also fit any 4-5 speed , Ford, IHC, Jeep with proper spacer. Late '30's to mid '70's.

Your on the right track. Main thing is don't rush it and snap a EZ out of in the hole. Certainly hope you have better luck than I did once. 1959 I was in Spain. Had a '52 Mercury I foolishly took to Spanish garage for a tune up. They twisted a plug off. After they got thru trying to get the stub out I needed a new head. 2 weeks of searching I finally found one in Germany. Had it shipped to Torrejon AFB in Madrid. It was supposed to be picked up by the courier and brought up to Elizondo for me. Unfortunately the Lt didn't get the word and when he saw it he trash canned it. Call to Torrejon and 3 days later they called me and said they had found it and was sending it up by bus. 5 days later my car was running again and I immediately sold it and got a VW. Jim :doh:

Frankly I don't think it will work, but what the heck. Try it and see. I have always swore by JB but the other day it let me down. The check valve on my compressor broke and I couldn't find a replacement so I JB'd it. Didn't work. Came apart when I tried screwing it back together. Like I said, try it and see. Just might work and only cost ya a couple minutes of your time. Let us know how it turned out.

The two halves are held together by a muscle, tendon. After the animal dies scavengers eat all the flesh, or it just rots, and the two halves separate. Generally the other half is around but finding it is something else.

I always thought GPS were neat and wanted one. A while back the GF took her truck in for servicing and got a loaner from the dealer. It had gps installed. Not sure what brand but think it was a Garmin. Short story, We're sitting in front of the house and it's telling us we're not there 'cause that street didn't exist. No longer have a desire for a GPS. :no:

No disrespect meant for your dad or his buddy but neither one of them is right. A polite way of saying they don't know what their talking about.If you were to mill a head down to where you had maybe 14 to 1 compression ratio then you might blow something, like a piston maybe. I can send you a good head, guaranteed for $30 plus shipping. I'm sure one can be found near you for the the same price. Since you already have the head off, run a pressure test on the block. If it's OK, put another head on and go. Jim

I have freed up too many motors successfully to encourage swapping without trying to unfreeze one first. If you've got big bucks then go ahead and replace. If your tight on the bucks then try to salvage it. Just light surface rust is enough to keep the starter from spinning one but with a little help from a screw driver on the fly wheel teeth or a socket on the harmonic balancer nut it often can be loosened enough for the starter to do it. First pull all the plugs and look for rust. just one cylinder or several? get a light and look into the plug hole, see if you can see anything.If it's really rusted up forget it. If no or slight rust then try an salvage it. First fill the cylinders with something. I've used trans fluid, kerosene, diesel, rust penetrate, Marvel Mystery Oil and yes, even WD40. Let it soak at least over night. use a pry bar on the fly wheel and see if you can move it. Even half an inch. If you can then rock it. Sometimes I have freed up a motor in less than 10 minutes. Other times I have spent a week on one. Mostly just letting them sit an soak. I would guess I've saved maybe 4 out of 5 motors doing this. Also the motor could be busted. A broken piece is jammed into something. Only a inspection will reveal that. Good luck and welcome to the madness. Jim

Did you serve them up with just salt an catsup or did you throw in a little BarBQ sauce? :thwak:

A little duct tape a couple qts oil, I don't see the problem. AneeHoo welcome. Jim

Remove the wire from both the sending unit and the gauge. Then take a resistance reading from it to ground, er,,earth. If that doesn't give any clues then check resistance between the fuel gauge wire and againest other wires in the same loom, fuel pump, tail lights, turn signals etc..You just might wind up doing a inch by inch visual inspection of the entire loom. Might try running a wire direct from sender to gauge, replacing the original.

Yeah. I want to hear about their response also. The best way to recognize a reliable business is how they honor their warranties. A couple years ago I replaced a water pump on a Ford van. When I started it it ran about 30 seconds and BAM! Big racket. The shaft snapped between the pulley and housing putting the fan into the radiator. . Advance Auto replaced the water pump, radiator, fan, fan belt, 2 gal anti-freeze and re imbursed me $300 for labor. And I never saw, or heard of any rotor separating like that.