jimoshel

Sounds reasonable to me.

Quadratec, JC Whitney, Team Cherokee, Junk Yard.

After 30 years of faithful service, winching everything from a 5hp riding lawn mower to a 1923 LaFrance fire engine my winch broke. There are 8 bolts, 4 on each end holding the motor to the gear box. They worked loose and then sheared off. There was nothing locking the bolts, no lock washers or Loctite altho I understand you don't use lock washers on aluminum. I got the broken stubs out on one end but no way in H* could I remove them from the other. I rotated the plate maybe 20 degrees and drilled and tapped 4 new holes, 1/4X20. I have this information someplace but as usual I can't find anything when I want it so taking the easy way and asking on CC. What should I torque the bolts to in aluminum? What would be the best way to lock them? I prefer not to use LocTite on the threads but will if necessary Would prefer to just use something on the bolt heads, 4 of which will be in the open and 4 which will be inside the gearbox, in oil. Come on fellas. Help me get another 30 years of service out of this thing. Jim :hmm:

Almost every TV station has a spot where they go to bat for the consumer with a complaint against a business. Go there first. Then small claims court. The biggest problem with SCC is usually there is a filing fee, $75 here, and sometimes the damage isn't worth it, other than the satisfaction of dragging them to court. However most businesses don't want the hassle and will settle up. Personally the damage could be $5 but if I'm right I'll spend $500 to get satisfaction.

Met a lot of interesting people. Gave me a place to ask questions when I didn't know the answer. Restored my self esteem when I realized I wasn't the only loony toons Jeep nut. :cheers: CC :cheers:

gonna take two pieces of duct tape to seal that pan. Took a 4.0 out of a 2001 XJ and put it in a 88 MJ. Just swap the sensors. And the diz. Keep the manifolds with the engine.

Just clean everything up, remove any carbon, crud, and put it back. Make sure to offset the rings. You could use a hone, very fine and very little and break the glaze on the cylinder wall. As long as you have the piston out would be a good time to check for wear. Or maybe not. Might find a little wear and end up rebuilding the engine. LOL.

I suspected it just needed bled, but I didn't know for sure. Just a hunch. The motor ran good and the truck was in in VG shape so I didn't think I would lose anything on it. Besides, I was prepared to go the $400 if he didn't take my offer.

A couple months ago I answered a ad for a 1988 Comanche, 2.5, 5spd. no clutch, $400 OBO. I checked it out. The owner, a young fella, said his dad and uncle had replaced the flywheel,pressure plate, clutch disk, bearing, master and slave cylinders and no matter what they did it wouldn't work. I offered him $150. He took it. After getting it home I bled the system. Been using it as a DD since, put about 1500 miles on it so far. Question. If I ever see him again should I tell him what the problem had been and have him, as well as his dad and uncle, go thru the rest of their lives feeling like DS? Or shud I lie about it and tell him a real complicated, difficult to analize, replace component broke and let him retain a little self esteem? :popcorn: :dunno:

To quote that Shakespear fella "much ado over nothing" .008 of a inch is critical in rebuilding a engine. Not on a spring bushing. I fail to see how mounting a SOA as compared to SUA will shorten it's life, unless maybe SUA will let it drag on the ground.

Adios

I'll take 2. Never repaired the model plane after it's last destructive nose dive so I have a idle receiver needs to be put into something.

The rustiest MJ I've got came from Arizona. Anyway welcome to the club.

A simple test. Find the steepest hill you can. Go up the hill working the engine. Don't lug it. Just make it work. If you burn oil, blue smoke out the tailpipe, it's rings. Turn around and go back down the hill riding compression. Now if it smokes it's valves, seals. You can change valve guides without doing a complete valve job. I would suggest you lap them tho, to insure they're concentric. The 2.5 uses the umbrella deflector on the valve stems. From what I've gathered about your capabilities from your postings, you can do it.

There is no adjustment on '90 back. Just '91 and later. However sometimes there is enough slack that a little adjustment can be made.Loosen the 2 nuts holding the brake pedal to the pushrod. Hold the switch forward, toward the firewall, and tighten the 2 nuts. If that doesn't get it, remove the switch. Use a rat tail file and elongate the hole a little. The back part of the hole. You want the switch to move forward, toward the firewall.

The very first thing I do when ever I get a new Jeep is to take a air chisel and cut the floorboards out. No floor board, no rust. :popcorn:

Jack it up and put a couple pipes under it.

Should mention, the radio will be dirty, AM/FM and tape works. The tape deck should be serviced, cleaned and lubed.

She's green, unbroken. Never even had a halter on her until I picked her out of the herd.

Zephyr, Zip for short, 3yr old mare, Adopted mustang from BLM. Captured from the Powder River herd, SW Colorado. I'm giving myself 4 weeks and I'll be riding her.

as for my J10 its and 83 with the much nicer Gladiator front end on it.... Not to sound rude But[list=] with over 30 cj's, Mj's, xj's, j10's, tj,s and, yj's restored and sold this year plus about 50 jeeps in the yard I think I know what I drive...Thanks Not rude, informative. I thought about that possibility AFTER posting. Anyway I like it.

Nice score. But I don't think your truck is a J10. It's a Gladiator possibly a J200. Unless they have different designations in Canada. long story short.. the owner called and said he would take wood for the jeep. LOL here is the j10 yesterday with wood and tow bar and tools to go pick up waggy Image

:agree: Remove every wire involved. See which ones are hot and which are neutral, ground. There is no way you should be getting 90V. To get 90V you have a hot wire going thru a load that is not properly terminated or you have a neutral wire that is not grounded.Then rewire everything as if you were starting from scratch. It's a lot easier to start fresh than to figure out the old. I recently bought and rewired a house that was built back in the 30's. NOT FUN.

I don't care what color it is as long as it works.