jimoshel

There is no dent there that would prevent a fuel pump assembly from fitting right. Your probably hitting the rim that goes around the fuel reservoir.

Send me $20 and i will send you detailed instructions on how to burn horse and cow manure in your vehicle.

I have been putting V8's in Jeeps for a couple years. The older full size ones, not MJ's. On the early ones I made my own adapter plates because there wasn't any commercially available. In my humble opinion the Chevy V8 is not the best option for a Cherokee or MJ V8 conversion. My reasoning. 1. They're to heavy. The small block Chevy is close to 600 lbs. Use a small block Ford or Buick. They're under 500lbs. The old Oldsmobile 215 would be ideal. In my opinion a 289 Ford is best. 2. With the smaller engines you have less heat. Less cooling problems. 3. The rear mounted dizzy is a bear to reach in a full size car. Forget it, in a XJ,MJ. What is the purpose of the conversion? A full out race, rock climbing rig where your not worried about it being streetable? Or just a street machine with a little more oomph? Ready to remove the inner fender liners and 3/4 of the firewall? The loss of strength can be made up with a roll cage. I understand the wanting to be different, doing the odd ball or just why not but sometimes it just isn't practical. Been there, done that. I have put a 350 Buick in a MJ. Wouldn't do it again. Awhile back I started to put a BMW V12 in a MJ. 3 things stopped me. The 8in crack in the block where it froze up and busted, The necessity of moving the front axle forward or else having the rear of the engine in the middle of the cab. Sanity. No matter what you put in your not going to beat the reliability of the 4.0. What ever route you decide to go, good luck. And keep us informed. Jim

It's possible. What are your fabrication skills and how deep are your pockets?

If the alternator was bad the battery would be dead and he couldn't start it again. Check CPS first.

I have a '98 XJ Sport with a bent front end I been wondering what to do with. Thanks Don. Gonna start on it first thing in the morn. Jim :doh:

CPS was the first thing I thought about. I know it would affect the ignition but didn't think it would affect the fuel pump.

The 4 relays on the right hand fender well. Numbering them 1 thru 4, front to back, I have determined No 3 is the fuel pump relay. 2 others are the B+latch and the AC compressor relay. Does anyone know which position is which? What is the fourth relay for? I checked the relays and they are all good. I drove the XJ yesterday and it ran fine. Today I tried to start it and no go. The starter engages and the motor spins fine. just no start. Everything electrical not part of the ignition or gas works. Lights, wipers, horn, etc. The ignition and gas circuit are dead. No power input. When running a wire direct from Bat pos to the ballast resistor the pump works. I'm suspecting maybe the ECU. Is there any way to check the ECU without removing it? I just can't get under the dash like I used too. Any ideas? I had it sold, the customer was on his way over until this happened. Jim :wrench: :hmm:

I push in the core on the pressure relief valve. If the pump is working gas comes out. If the pump isn't working, no gas.

Had to go look. '87MT. No drain plug, no boss.

People just don't talk enough. Sit down and have a face to face open discussion. Love doesn't just die. Something smothers it. From a man married 44 years.

It's a little Mickey Mouse but it works and will save the trouble of dropping the pan. Get a piece of wire and push it down the tube until it hits the broke dip stick. Mark it. Get a tubing cutter and cut off the top part of the tube. A pair of long nose pliers should reach the stick enough to extract it. Either fix the stick or get another one. Now cut off the end of the dip stick the same amount you cut off the tube. Be sure and cut off the end that goes into the pan. Holding the two sticks together, mark the full mark on the cut stick. A triangle file works. Or if the old tube went past where it should have, then just push the new dip stick in and retract it. Mark where the oil level is. Actually the cut off end could be reattached, either by welding, wide hose clamp or heat shrink tubing and you use a original dip stick. It's up to you. Jim

Bite the bullet and pull the wheel. Any auto parts store should have a replacement.

Last summer I bought a '89 XJ, 4.0, 5spd, 4WD. It ran great but no clutch. $200. Master clutch cylinder was dry so I had a good idea what was going on. Checked the fuse panel, sure enough blistered, glazed looking. No problem. Just part the thing out, make a couple bucks and forget it. Didn't work out that way. I have a hard time scrapping a Jeep out, always want to fix 'em. Today figured to do something with it so drug it up to the shop and removed the master cylinder and fuse panel. One handed no less. I gotta find some cheap labor. Got a new cylinder at AutoZone $30. Looking at the fuse panel. Can anybody give me a good reason not to just cut the wires off and twist them back together, eliminating the panel? I mean OTHER than burning the vehicle up. Just asking. Jim :thwak:

hey, can you put me in your will for all of your jeeps just in case? ;) Settle for just one?

Can pics be posted without using a image service site,IE, PhotoBucket?

Bigger, Battery wise, is better, however not necessary. Just leave the engine running and you'll do just fine.

Nice.

From a 1952 Mack, The bulldog hood ornament and the 2 Mack nameplates on both sides of the hood. Tilt-tele steering column from a '74 Cadillac. Full Stewart Warner instrument package. Modified the tach, 0-8,000 and the speedo, 0-150mph to read double the actual numbers so the needle would be in the upper scale.

It looked nice but just lookin doesn't show how it performs under fire. Got to find someone actually using it for a first hand report. The $10 bucks, is that per member? or total for the club?

They hang a beam from it and drag the road for mines.

I was trying to adjust the shift cable on the '94GC. Had swapped motor, 4.0 and transmission, 42RE and the shift lever and tran lever wasn't in sync. I had the front end up on ramps with blocks behind both rear wheels. Did the adjustment, I thought, kick the blocks out and got in and started the motor. Moved the shift to R. Nothing. Jumped out and crawled back under Jeep. The motor was shut off. While trying to loosen the cable the Jeep started rolling back, off the ramps. I was already mostly under the thing so pulled my bod under it and as it rolled down the ramps it ran over my right shoulder, pinning me to the ground. After hollering for help and not getting any I realized I was on my own. Started to just lay there and wait for help but didn't know when that would be, Besides, the ground was cold and I was getting dizzy. Don't know how in hell I did it but I grabbed the tranny cross member and was able to rock the Jeep forward enough to get free. Drove myself to the ER. No broken bones but some muscle, tendon damage. arm is tied down so i can't move it and I'm right handed. Gonna be like this for a couple weeks, darn it. Some reason I keep thinking of '91 Comanche wearing them sandals and a bunch of us warning her of work place safety. It just takes one second of carelessness. Jim :thwak:

Go to the B&M web site and check their listing. You could probably modify one and make it fit but why? :dunno:

When a hospital adds extra charges to your bill, it is not a honest error. They do it deliberate to get extra money to help cover the cost of those who don't or can't pay. They hope you don't check the charges.

It's a Garmin GPS MAP 62st. He had it a whole 2 months and got another one. Supposed to send me the instruction manual when he gets back to Denver. We'll see. It seems like areally nice unit.