jimoshel

I was 19 once, I think, not sure, can't remember.

Just got back from the friendly P&P. Had a 87 MJ, must have just come in as it hadn't been picked over yet. 2.5, AX4, 4WD, not a dent, scratch or rust anywhere except dent in original rear bumper and it was fixable. This truck is in better shape than half the ones I got in the yard. What you see is what I got for $86 dollars and one hour , two counting the trip, of my time. Going back Mon for the bed, front clip and windshield. VIN 1JTHS6413HT060365 Image Not Found

Anytime directions are given, front, rear, left, right,above, below it is from the drivers seat for reference. You will be, or should be, standing on the LEFT hand side and towards the FRONT of the truck. You will be leaning over the fender, With the hood raised, and the pre-mentioned components will be directly in front of you.

On the front of the left hand inner fender is 2 relays, 3 if you have AC. If I remember correctly the front one is the FP relay. there are 4 wires to it, yellow, red, orange and orange with black tracer. The yellow and red wire should be 12V when the key is on.The orange/black is from the ECU, activates the relay when needed. The orange wire goes direct to the FP and be 12V.

Sounds like bad sending unit to me. Remove the wire at the tank and see what it does. If the needle stays on zero then the sending unit is bad. If you have a variable resistor or another sending unit put it in series with the wire you removed from the tank and ground. The needle should move as you vary the resistance.

You could just take a long wiree and hook one end to the bat pos and run the other end back to the pump. I would go to the FP relay and check voltages there. Check the voltage on the red wire, input, and the orange wire, output direct to FP. Should be 12V with key on.

Not likely. If the ground was open the needle wouldn't move at all. For the needle to peg there must be a short to ground between the gauge and ground or faulty sending unit.

Yes.

could you clairafy :dunno: You will notice that the two mounts for the fuel pump on the assy. The pump fits between them. With the shorter pump you just push it down until it's snug. Try to put the longer pump into the short assy and it won't fit between the two mounts.

Turn the the knob counter clockwise to the 20V position. Make suer the black lead is in the com hole and the red lead is in the Volt hole.

1. Don't know. Think they will tho. 2. 3. No. They can be made to work but why? MJ pumps are available. 4. Don't know 5. Yes 6. No 7. Get a Haynes manual.

Fuel pump and gas gauge shares a common ground. Behind left tail light.

If you want to tick your stepdad off by burning out his meter. There should be a 15V DC range. Set it there or whatever range it has that is more than 13V.

There is no fuse for the 2.5 fuel pump. You might try swapping the fuel pump relay with the one next to it. They're the same. See what happens. A volt meter would be a great help troubleshooting this. Don't have or can't afford one, get a test light.

I took a fuel pump from a 89 4.0 and put it in a '89 2.5. The pump was 1 inch shorter but no problem fitting or working. That was a year ago and I still drive it, no problems. Might be a problem going from a 2.5 to a 4.0 because of the length but I'm sure nothing that couldn't be solved. They have them on EBay so can always get one there.

Everything sounds like fuel pump. If grandma's hearing is better than yours have her stand at rear wheel opening and listen. It will sound somewhat like a blender. If you have a multi meter set on amps 0-15 range. remove the wire from the fuel pump ballast resistor. Insert the meter between the resistor and wire. Turn on key. If pump is working it will read 6-10 amps. Remove gas line from TBI. Turn on key. Gas should spray out from line. Catch it in a can. Don't let it spray on the engine. Pump will not work with bad ground.

Some people don't do burn outs. Have absolutely no idea in hades what they do do for fun tho. I have a 68 Cad with a turdo'd 520 engine. When I lived in town I would lay rubber from the driveway to the corner. One day the neighbor asked me why I always did it. I just looked at her and replied "cause I can" Some things you just can't explain. Some things you shouldn't have to. :shake:

Pete who? :cheers:

Well if ya can't spell it, then how can ya recognize it when ya see it?

When I was in Spain in '59 the Renault Daphine and VW bug was the top two cars being purchased by GI'S. They were darn nice autos, cheap to operate and reliable. We could buy a brand new one $20 cheaper than a Beetle, which was selling for $875 or $890 with ashtray and exterior rearview mirror.

Quite frankly I am having a hard time believing the paper clip story. Do this. Take a charged battery. Get a piece of wire, not copper but steel, baling wire. Now slap it across the 2 battery posts. Use a pair of pliers, not your bare hands. See what happens? Either the clip would have melted or the wiring going to the fuse box, accompanied by mucho smoke and smell. If the paper clip had a high resistance then yes, it can happen, high resistance equaling a slow battery drain. However paper clips do not have high resistance, 6 ohms on the one I measured. I don't buy it. Jim

I'm really stretching my memory here so don't hit me up if I miss something. In 1950 or '51 a implement manufacturing Co in Liberal or Plains Ks acquired 4 Jeep 3/4ton p/u with the goal of installing diesel engines in them. They were meant to be for farm use only, no highway use although they would be hwy legal. The original plan was to use Ford industrial 4cyl engines but that fell through so they switched to Perkins. Unfortunately the backers backed out and they were unable to get funding to continue. Declared bankruptcy and everything went across the auction block. Everything metal went to some scrap dealer. A wheat farmer near Plains told me he knew where one of the trucks was and that it was in everyday use. This was in the fall of 1952. Just for what it's worth. Jim

Nobody said they were ALL bad. When you consider the big chains sells a thousand or more of an item a couple bad ones is no big deal,,,unless you're the one that got one of the bad ones.

Ya and the left one ain't too good looking either. I can't tell 'em apart. Which one is the left one? :thwak:

Look for a black wire coming from the fuel pump. Hook that to ground. There should be a Ground point in the left rear tail light area.Look for a dark green with tan tracer from the fuel pump. There should be a matching wire in the harness coming from the frame, front of the truck. Tie them together. That should do it. If not then just run a wire from any ign hot point to the fuel pump.