Tex06

Replaced mine 11 years ago. The gasket material I used was rubber-fiber if I remember correctly. Not exactly UV stable but, it lasted longer than OEM did (they tore last year when I took my door apart for paint). When you can't find an exact replacement, you make due. I'll be making my next set from rubber sheeting as my paint job is rough and I need additional flexibility to properly seal.

Bought a Snap-on MT2500 🤣🤣🤣

FINALLY! AFTER 10 YEARS..... NO MORE "MAINT REQD" LIGHT!!!!!

If these don't fix it, I have an idea what it could be. It's a PITA to diagnose but if you have a multi-meter I can show you what my 4.0 with these symptoms was.

Autozone also sells gasket material by the roll. I had some leftover from another project and I fabri-cobbled my own.

Terry, I purchased the components from a '96 for my '92 (condensor, drier, etc). The hoses were difficult to source (one in particular, I forget but it was one of the 2 that go to the compressor). If your components are in good shape, the drop in 12 replacement refrigerants work well and are very reasonable in price.

Not being familiar with Nissan as much as Jeep (I'm assuming a hardbody and being an engineer/welder) I'd expect the frame to be the Metric equivalent of roughly 12 gauge sheet steel (slightly thinner than 1/8"), possibly 10 ga. Going overkill on the thickness for the frame repair patch usually results in too much heat needed to make a good weld so either its a cold joint on the repair patch or you get burn thru on the factory side. Either way, you end up with a weak spot for future failure. Our Jeeps are something like 18ga going off memory and AI searches (both highly questionable at best 😂). But it's 2-3 layers thick depending on where in the frame you are.

I have an old pioneer cd player in mine with a USB and an aux port in it. Just bought this and after 11 years of ownership I have Bluetooth!

I've got a set that need a little love. Shoot me a message if you're interested

X2 on needing pictures. Do you have access to a brake for sheet metal?

Wondering the same. Ordered a bunch of stuff from him (got it all so far) but yeah the wait times were long.

Here's a couple pics of the failed MAP. It's Echlin, NAPA's premium brand.

SOLUTION!!!! Finally got cold enough to where I was able to get extended time in the no start condition. Took a troubleshooting tip I found online and grabbed a hairdryer and started heating components I thought were the issue. Idea being, the heat would let the truck start and help me ID the problem. Did this a couple of times, took at least 20 min each time and seemed to be a different component. Well once, I laid my heat gun on the valve cover and almost immediately the fuel pump primed. It had been pointed at the MAP sensor. I tried to replicate this again the next time it failed to start and the truck didn't start at all. Thinking it was another fluke I started tracing out grounds from the relay. I found out if I grounded any of the relays on pin 85 (specifically the fuel pump or ASD), the fuel pump would run, but continuously and the ASD relay would click. At this point I'm testing grounds, checking voltages everywhere I can, and I remember the MAP sensor, so I unplug it and instantly the fuel pump primed. I crank the truck and she starts right up (running rough bc no MAP input). Plug back in, no fuel pressure on the rail, cranks, no start. Verified this twice. Dig thru the parts bin, found an NOS GM MAP sensor I had stashed away, so I verify *again*, not running with current sensor, unplug, and plug into new sensor. Fires right up (not running great, vac line is still on old sensor). Get the new one swapped in, truck fires right up and is idling noticeably another than it has been (had an intermittent stumble at idle if it started when cold). Old MAP was 8 years old from NAPA, swapped in when I had another electrical gremlin. Wrote them a review on it. TLDR: bad MAP sensor was draining power from computer and not allowing truck to start when it was cold outside.

Did you get the answers you needed?

Only 1 is cracked Have the brackets but you'd need to replace the studs on a lot of it.... but the price is right.

Not many for sale around here, especially with working AC. I'm curious what it actually goes for.

I bought an XJ model from Covercraft. It makes a noticeable difference in the interior temp vs the cheap foil one I had before. Fits exactly right too but they're not cheap. South Louisiana sun doesn't play.

Auto or manual trans?

I've got a set that are in ok condition. Both have a single crack that could be repaired (or used as-is). I'd be willing to let ya have 'em for shipping. Sadly the inner mounting brackets didn't hold up. I have them, but you would need to drill out a lot of the studs that broke off when disassembling.

I pulled 3 or 4 from a junkyard for $1-2 each and used what fit best. I believe I ended up with a 2 port GM ball that I mounted in the front by my battery.

$12,500 for an 88. https://www.facebook.com/share/XQALZpB4nS6QqVYB/?mibextid=kL3p88

A difference how? I can definitely see that they're on 😂

Here to say JB weld is a good all around epoxy, especially on glass-reinforced or mineral- filled plastics. To test if the box was abs, you can clean a spot with alcohol real well then wipe with a paper towel damp with acetone or MEK. ABS will smear black on the paper towel and you can use ABS adhesive to repair it (found in the plumbing aisle for black pipe). Not a foolproof test but does help positively ID ABS.

Tried again today, rings and goes to a voice-mail that isn't setup. Don't know of any local to me and I'm looking to specifically do a 9 or 10 leaf. Most places can't do that.

I know it's an old thread but has anyone been able to get a hold of Deaver lately? I was working with Jeff on a set of custom rears and about 3 weeks ago was the last time I was able to get anyone on the phone.