airspeed

The photo is not great but mine is mounted to the front panel of the ash tray. I'm not sure what dimensions you are dealing with, but mine fit just snug, the MIC is right there on the left. There is no intrusion into either foot well, no leg or knee bumps...

It will be hard to find a receiver hitch for the MJ. You can use the bumper, not sure what that is rated for?

I'm not sure about the 4.0L Auto. My 88 2.5L 4spd has 3.55, the 2.5L 5spd would have 4.10's. Comanche's would not be the ideal tow vehicle, they are light and have a short wheelbase. When you say "pull a medium trailer" what weight are you talking about. You are right with the D30 & D35, there was an option for the D44 in the rear.

Yes there were different oil pans on the 2.5. I ordered a rebuilt engine with oil pan and I noticed the difference before I installed it. The sump on my original pan was about 4" forward, that gives room for the exhaust to rout through. When I swapped the pans I had to change the pick-up tube as well.

I would think the stock setup would be sufficient. Rock Auto carries the fan clutch.

I installed a Modine HotDawg HD30k. This works great in my over size 3 car with 12' ceilings. It has a powered exhaust so you can rout it horizontal if needed. $399 with free shipping.

Time to upgrade my Weaver 2.5. That Leupold would be real nice.

I drove my 67 bug with a broken throttle cable. Ran a string out the window and around the rear bumper and up to the throttle. The hand foot coordination was quite a learning experience.

That would be an external open air oil cooler!!

I just reread your post and realized you want to go from a 2wd to 4.0 4wd. that is a whole different story. That is a lot more work, search the forum, I know it has been done a number of times.

I have never done a swap but from what I have read on the forum I think all engine associated wiring including the ECU and forward will need to be changed. The 4.0 will need a different fuel pump and I believe the drive shafts will need to be changed, at least the rear one.

2.5 is much simpler lay out for fuel and emissions systems. The 2.8 is a vacuum nightmare. 2.5 has better fuel economy!!

What can I do with 189 Lithium batteries. Our TEQ group pulled these from some little computers called Rabbit Cards? I saw these sitting in the recycle bin and I asked, "are you going to throw these away"? Now do I recycle these or can I use them. Stacked into a tube I could have 567V !! Remote portable welder. Cattle prod.

My 2.5 has always had high oil pressure. In a cold weather start it will go up to 80psi, normal operating pressure is ~ 50-60psi. I have a mechanical Stewart-Warner gauge as reference. I did my rebuild about 60k ago with a new oil pump, no oil leaks. I always worried about the cold weather oil pressure being so high but it runs good. It is tricky getting the distributor clocked to the right position. You would think it is the 3 o'clock position for #1 but it is more like 4-5 o'clock. Look at the position of your rotor before you pull it out.

I think he already put it back together, the seal should hold the shaft in the right position to slip back in the collar.

I wouldn't worry about that little bit of oil. There is a coupling sleeve between the outer shaft (shown in photo) and the inner shaft. There is about 2 oz of oil where the vacuum motor controls the coupling sleeve on the right side, the front diff. should sling oil back up in there when you start driving. Your outer seal on the right side must be working good if it leaked only after you pulled the axle out! My front diff was leaking out the right side every time I parked it on right leaning slope, I had to change my seal, problem solved. If you look at your photo you can see where the seal runs on that shinny area down by the splines. Your 75/90 lube did not hurt when putting it back together.

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http://cosprings.craigslist.org/cto/3968624449.html Straight 6 engine (4.0L), much better and more powerful than earlier GM V-6 (2.8L). More fuel efficient also. No A/C but... P/S, P/B, Cruise, Tilt, Intermittent Wipers, Factory Tinted Glass, Rear Sliding Window, Rear Traction-Lock Differential, Sport Steering Wheel and Gauge Package with Tachometer, Alloy Wheels, Bucket Seats with Console, Pioneer Trim Level, Factory AM/FM Cassette with 4 speakers, and other cool stuff... :-)

I had the same problem with my vent. When it gets plugged it will leak oil. There are actually two pieces, the top part slides up and down and locks the lower portion (tabs on the bottom) into the axle tube. You have to pull the top part up and then carefully pry the bottom out.

Found another 86 at the Aurora U-Pull & Pay (C4) with black interior. From a quick look it was missing the head liner. Left armrest and had a small crack in the dash pad. All the hard plastic trim was there with one broken piece on the lower door threshold. It had a good pair of tail lights and was lifted with Orange springs up front and (4) leafs in the back.

I used a 90 elbow out of the block and a tee. This way I kept my factory light and added my gauge.

The 96 dual diaphragm brake booster is the best upgrade I ever did to my truck!!

Note: Those are 2-56 x .187 thread forming screws. I didn't want to mess with the integrity of the shaft or the collar so I drilled small holes, ~.070" dia.

There was only one way I could make my horn work, see photo. Check continuity between the steering column and the steering shaft, your horn button grounds through the steering shaft. On my truck I would speculate that the grease had become so hard and solidified over time it turned into an insulator in both the u-joints and the shaft bearings. There are (2) u-joints on that shaft, (1) ground jumper is not shown in the photo. You could do a quick check, use a jumper cable from the upper shaft to ground. Or just ground you horn wire that is in the column to another location under the dash.

I think you are using the term sending unit as fuel pump? The pump should make noise but I don't think you should hear it when the truck is running. When you first turn the key on before the engine starts you should hear the pump cycle for a few seconds. If it continues to make noise like that you may have to pull it out. There is a sock filter on the fuel pump that may be plugged. You may also want to change your inline fuel filter as well, it may be plugged making the pump labor. Remove the left tail light, there is a fuel pump ground wire under a screw, clean that connection.