airspeed

The foundation for a good paint job is the prep work, that is where MAACO will fall short. You can hide a multitude of sins under a nice paint job, one year later the prep will start showing through the new paint. If you have surface rust showing up now, there will be more hidden that you don't see yet.

I made this one out of a piece of cherry. One of those silly projects you spend about 20 hours on. But it keeps me out of the bars...

That looks like a huge turbo, big is not always better in some applications. Most turbos have oilers on the bottom of the pistons for additional cooling. Not sure how a stock 2.5 can handle all that boost? The last thing in the world I would want to do is invest $25k in a Cherokee and then sell if for $9500... I have done a few builds where you loose some money, but no to that extent.

I picked up those 6 quarts and have them packed and ready for shipment. They are factory sealed, cleaned up and look brand new. If somebody wants to pay the shipping I will drop them off at the Post Office. The package is 13.4 lbs shipping from 80514. I have a photo but photo bucket is not working tonight. Send me a PM if interested.

Is it just the angle of the photo or is the instrument cluster no aligned to the bezel properly? It may have had a cluster swap?

I have an 88 2.5L, 4spd, 4x4 and it is a good little rig. Even at the high altitude up here in Colorado I’m giving up about 20 horsepower, it still gets around good. The big advantage to the 2.5 is they get pretty good gas mileage. Gas is cheap right now but could be back up to $5 gal real quick… There are really no performance upgrades for the 2.5, down the road you could do a 4.0 swap if you are up to the challenge. The ticking sound could be a cracked or loose exhaust manifold?

1988 Factory brochure showing 4x4 emblem location. I can find the Larado with the fancy trim and pin stripping has it moved down I Image Not FoundImage Not Found

I'm not sure they will accept values outside or your region. Cherokee's in Colorado have a lot more value, check Denver Craigslist. http://denver.craigslist.org/ctd/5940044815.html http://denver.craigslist.org/ctd/5940008530.html http://denver.craigslist.org/cto/5934058513.html

The guy that works over there is always talking about my Comanche. He said he will hold them for me, I will pick them up next week.

I'm not sure what this stuff is, ATF or gear lube? It seems really thin when you shake the bottle...

Saw this over at the county hazardous drop area. They have a free shelf of useable chemicals and liquids. If somebody is interested I can pick these up and hold them. I’m not sure how good the lubricant is but maybe a collector/conversation piece? The date code is 1974. Image Not Found

Don't go to Sears...

You know your getting bored when you start cruising youtube. Some of these are pretty good. There is one piece of equipment that comes off of the pallet and rolls through the field at about 140 knots. I wonder what the differentials looked like after that roll?

I'm not sure how critical this is but on a factory hitch the 1/4" shims are mounted differently. Only the (2) most forward shims are welded to the side plates. The other (4) are loose and slipped into the frame indents during mounting. I'm not sure why they did this at the factory, maybe so you can hang the hitch on the (2) forward bolts then rotate the hitch up for final mounting? If the other (4) shims were mounted would they scratch the paint on the frame during assembly?

I realized the error after I installed them. I can pull the emblem off but that 3M VHB tape will not come off the new paint.

I will never paint a car again as long as I live. This is one of those projects you start and then down the road you ask yourself, why did I ever do this? What a mess that makes in the garage, dust, dirt, paint, in the garage and in the house, my wife is still mad at me. The body work is not so good, it had severe hail damage. I put a new hood on it but there is still ½ gal of bondo. The paint came out real nice, single stage acrylic enamel. Image Not Found

My horn quite working, this was the only way I could fix it. There was no continuity to ground from the horn button down through the steering column. I had to put the jumper ground wire over both of the U-joints, I only picture the lower one for ease of photo. My best guess is the grease in the u-joints has dried and hardened to the point of being an insulator. Now that I think about it, I should go buy new u-joints and get those old ones out of there...

The Comanche looks pretty rough, the motor is probably just as bad... http://desmoines.craigslist.org/cto/5829348745.html

I'm looking for the OEM side moldings, black. I'm not sure of the exact dimension, maybe 3" - 4" wide. There would be 10 pieces to a complete set.

Was there ever a factory paint option like that in two-tone? I'm getting ready to paint mine the original Pear White, a two-tone band of dark gray would look real nice. I'm not sure how you could carry that around on the tail gate?

My sample is 52 years old and in pristine condition (collector quality). I think I will post it on Ebay for $60 and see what’s offered. I had that 64 Buick special with the positraction rear end, I must of bought it back then.

Found this in my dad's garage. The date code is 1965.

I remember back in the day, 1987. I made the transition from dual floppies to my first hard drive. It was 10 megabytes for $420!

I installed the engine / transmission last week. Ever since then I had this kind of rattle raspy sound with a strange burning smell. This was on the transmission cross member under the exhaust pipe. Image Not Found

I had the front header off with front wire harness. Unplugged and cleaned the C102 connector. All lights seem to work fine but I don't have turn signals and when I step on the brake the front park lights come on? Also both dash turn indicators light up? I replaced both turn/park light sockets but problem still persists.