carnuck

Why down power it? Stroked 4.6L with 300 HP and 350 ft lbs of torque @2500 RPM on propane for me! ($1.65 a gallon!)

I run 33" tires with a 250,000 mile 4.0L and pukegoat (Viva Redline MTL!) with 3.73 gears and get close to 20 mpg average city/hwy mix loaded or not.

The early CV axles are crap, BUT the ZJ ones for the V8s are an upgrade and the boots are available at NAPA (I work there) as well as refurbed axles. I am going to put ZJ knuckles and brakes on the front of my '87 at the same time that I do the axle swap. I'll be running a 4.6L stroker with AW4/NV242 in a shortbed (need a fixed yoke swap later for driveshaft angle fixing)

I would get an AX-15 and the bellhousing from a 2.5L Dakota if you keep the 4 cyl. Then you need a spacer (Parts Mike has them for @$100) The Jeep NP208J (or AM on some tags) is 23 spline and fixed yoke, LH drop. Ford NP208 is 31 spline (also LH drop) but it's wider with a longer chain and thicker gears. They come fixed (full size Bronco to '88 with V8) or slipyoke (pickups) Chev only came RH drop with slipyoke and are 27 spline for TH350 and 700R4 or 32 spline for TH400 and 4L80E. (they also have nylon shifter forks which cause a lot of the bad reports for this tcase) Dodge are mirror image of the Jeep, but can be fixed (Ramcharger and Trailduster) or slipyoke (pickups) and are 23 spline only AFAIK. I happen to have one of each of the above for sale here in Seattle. I bought them all for comparisons (I planned on using the Dodge tcase before I rolled my '73 J4000) The Jeep or Dodge NP208 will bolt directly to the 904 4x4 trans (or a Jeep 727 4x4 trans) I was going to take the Chev 27 spline input and use it in a Jeep NP208 so I could bolt it directly to a 700R4 for overdrive.

That one had some issues that needed dealing with or he could've driven it away before the storm. Do NOT try to put rack and pinion on a 4x4 with solid front axle! My buddy Diesel John suggested a different oilpan that would allow the motor to bolt in without the steering clearance issues that one had as well.

since they didn't come V8, what motor is this?

There was a couple years of Dodge 5 on 4.5" D44 but they are unit bearing so no locking hubs are possible

That axle is from something else if the rear was D35. Dodge didn't use them except maybe early Dakota. I want unit bearing D44 knuckles with XJ pattern to put onto a FSJ front axle for mine.

I scored a set of ZJ alloys but changed back to 33/9.50/15 on stock rims.

Do a 4.6L stroker from Titan and have fun with it! :cheers:

Crawl under and check things out. Mine was the lower control arm bolts were loose at the frame.

I ran the "wrong" waterpump to Ouray and back. It only affected low RPM temps. '91s are infamous for cracking heads on the first of the HO series. (putting air pressure into each cylinder with the valves closed will cause air bubbles to percolate in the rad) Unscrewing the temp sender allows you to "burp" the system. A can of Redline Water Wetter drops temps drastically (that's the only reason why I didn't lose my headgasket at Ouray) BTW, if your rad says Blackstone on it, it's jammed full of crud because the tubes are too small diameter.

Newest thing is a Kia KM45 http://www.angelfire.com/nb2/jeeppickups/Kia.html

If you get the curved lower arms, 12.50s will even work

the one in the head has only 1 wire. http://napaonline.com/MasterPages/NOLMa ... emp+Sensor I also work at NAPA. :brows:

Easy to find on http://napaonline.com Coolant Temperature Sensor ECH TS5018 $28.99 Coolant Temperature Sensor DEM TS10139 $33.99 w/ OEM # 3300 2383

They also fit early '87 Dakota (only year)

try the gas filter and cleaning the throttle body. CTS may be shot too. (coolant sensor for the EFI)

AX-15 one is different

Seal all glue stopped a 1/2" hole in mine where some $#@!&^ shot it while it was parked.

BS like that needs to be rolled downhill. Point out the other guys left you a load of work late so you couldn't get there in time. That or ask to be put back down where you started for now because you were advanced before you even had a chance to learn the job. Say you're willing to take more training to learn what you need to advance in your job but no-one has even shown you how to do it yet. Once they realize how adept you are at putting the blame on someone else, you are a shoe-in to higher advancement in management where the balls are smaller and the blame flow starts. You just have to deal with it all quite calmly. Point out that if they think there's trouble now with a shortage of employees, how low will production drop when you aren't there to take up the slack the others left for you? 3 weeks into my last job I got advanced from cashier to counterman (no big surprise but no extra pay) then a week later I became an assistant manager (with no wage increase, but twice the responsibilities) then I got my ASE partsman cert and should have been bumped up to first assistant manager. I got all the duties, but none of the glory or benefits (or wage increase) Then after 6 months, I started getting moved around store to store, getting further away from home each time (until I found out there was a fuel stipend they had to pay from my "home" store. As soon as I started collecting that, I was put into a store closer to home) A year goes by and I switch around a couple local stores (I would go in, organize the place and then move on to the next mess) I got put into a store where the manager decided he was going to move to one closer to home a week after I got there, so I started working open to close and organizing that store (one of the worst due to the previous manager not wanting to be there) and I got in 2 hours of unpaid overtime after close to ensure the place would be shipshape for the incoming manager. First thing the new manager did was praise the previous guy for doing such a bangup job on keeping a sinking ship afloat and rag on me and the others for the store being in such disarray (WTF? Wish I'd taken pics before I started!) First thing the new guy does is transfer out the good staff I had and keep the dregs that I caught stealing and ripping off people's passwords so they could steal sales. Then he tried to claim I took money from the safe (I knew something was up because he was nice to me before he left, so I recounted the safe and called the security team and played back the video of him taking the money from the safe) "Oh, I was taking that to make change" he lied. I had gone to the bank a couple nights before he got there (Christmas season) with 5 days of deposits that were in the safe when I got there. $37,000 and every penny of it arrived. He tried to claim they had no proof that the money had made it to the bank, but I knew the teller and she got copies of the deposits for me to show corporate. Then the new guy started to sweat bullets because he realized that even with my head injury I had him figured out, so he faked a heart attack (to keep from being fired) and stayed home for 8 months on a Doctor's orders (I had a run in with the quack before. He's been banned for malpractice since) I got stuck open to close for those 8 months and at the end, 4th of July '03, the "crooks" blew off 3 days and I had to work the store by myself. I called the District Manager who told me to call other stores for extra employees (who would go to work on a long weekend?) which I had already done, but I called around again. No luck. The DM ignored my calls (I had up to 20 customers at a time in the store and given the area, I'm sure lots of stuff walked away) so I called the head honcho (Sunday, before noon his time, 4th of July weekend after an all nighter party) and HE called the DM and told him to get his @$$ to the store. DM shows up and says "What's the problem?" I'd been working since open with nothing to eat (I'm hypo-glycemic) or a bathroom break. He watched the store which I had my 20 minute break, and then he was about to leave and I asked "So when do I get a wage increase?" He said the store was a horrible mess (with no-one to put anything away and less than 1/2 staff, what did he expect? I did 2 hours of unpaid overtime every night as it was putting stuff away and cleaning until the alarm company called to find out why the alarm wasn't set on time) so I obviously didn't have things under control (I was refused permission to fire the thugs and found out all the writeups I had done on them were removed from their files right after I put them in) and not to expect any more income. I said to him "How many employees do you see here?" He looked around and said "One". I replied "Unless you just looked in a mirror, you saw none!" and I handed him my keys and shirt right off my back and walked out.

Flick the key to on twice before cranking that helps with my '87 at @300,000 miles.

Lower arms for a WJ (I think) are curved inwards to allow you more space for wider tires. I had 255/85/16s on mine for awhile (ZJ rims) and they would've been fine if I did my SOA lift with the curved arms.

It's thicker than brake fluid and it makes the seals swell a bit (It's fun getting the lid on and off now) but it's worked for 3 months so far. Every now and then I have to double clutch because the master doesn't catch but I couldn't keep fluid in for more than 5 clutch applications before and I was in the middle of moving. I'm swapping out for an auto anyways, so I figured I'd try it. (Do NOT use it in your brake system!)

Was it leaking? Now that it's apart, it's kind of late to tell you, but I used corn oil (for cooking) to stop mine from leaking. Even the master stopped dripping almost totally! (just don't think about reusing them later!)