carnuck

Actually, you can have the JGC box converted for stick

I should have said breather and/or CCV. If even partially clogged the oil is forced out by the blowby gases until the motor is broken in.

Are you running stock rear driveshaft or double cardan? If it's the regular one, use a level and weld new ones directly above the old ones on the same plane. Then drive over and have the shock mounts done right.

I still say the breather is probably clogged. There shouldn't be that much pressure under there. Rev the motor (not real high. Just a bit) and take your oil cap off and see if it "pops" (careful it doesn't end up in the fan!) It's not supposed to.

Shop is nuts! Any 4x4 shops in your area? CJ sway bar plates http://www.oconeeoffroad.com/servlet/the-5529/18271.15-Jeep-CJ-76/Detail Put it between the axle and the springs (you may need to grind some and notch it to fit around your springs) Full size Jeep ones are only single sided, which is what I have to put in if I change my rear diff to an 8.8" (but the price on my MJ will go up accordingly). Puts the shock mount in the same place as OEM so stock shocks can be used. Use an extra tall nut on the bolt through the leaf springs and you're golden!

I have the mounting kit for the Fey chrome or painted bumper. It may work for the Westin bumper but I'd have to see the back of it to tell.

First, check for tie rod slack. Then check your toe-in. More toe-in will cause your tires to scrub but it will corner tighter, albeit with much shorter life span.

If your toe-in is set correctly, you won't get deathwobble. My tracbar was loosened up on the driver's side. Tightened it up and wobble was gone. Adjusting the caster angle makes a hug difference too. Ever have a shopping cart with one wheel flapping around? That's pretty much the same as the cause of death wobble.

The breather in the valve cover can get clogged from blowby (previous motor) Most shops don't clean the gunk out, slap the cover back on and oil gets forced out of the new engine. People get mad and sell them because the mechanics are idiots.

If I hadn't broken my shoulder and lost my job, the longbox I just parted was going to get a 290/AX15/NP241 roklok with D44s front and rear and an extended cab. Sold the goodies to pay my bills and scrapped the dream.

My stepdaughter was supposed to be on the first flight (they were held over leaving France by an unruly passenger after their honeymoon and they were nearly to NY when it happened) and just the week before my wife and I were on it, transferring from a Nashville flight headed home to Seattle after visiting her folks.

I nailed a deer a couple years back while leaving Monroe, WA at the end of the fair. Car in front of me had no lights (after dark) and finally pulled to the shoulder so I went around him and nailed a doe that jumped over the hood of the car that pulled over and flew into the oncoming lane, got hit again and knocked off the road. I tried to find it when the Stater showed up, but it was long gone leaving a blood trail.

Sounds like the breather on the valve cover may be blocked off or plugged (Bad juju!)

I saw one side screaming about the other putting $300,000 into the battle, while they were writing a personal check for $250,000 themselves. Pot, meet kettle

I'd do the AW4 in a heartbeat. Switch the JGC's TCU box for one from a stick (if separate still) and wire the AW4 in. The HO TPS for an XJ should fit and the trans controller spliced in pretty easy. If I liked JGCs, I'd do it.

The mounting kit I'm selling fits the Fey bumper to Comanches

I have a tilt and non-tilt side by side and the part looks identical

I have found that the factory average ratios (stock tires with 3.07 and 5 speed or auto and 3.55) seem to be about perfect. The Renix motors (which most MJs are) have the same cam as early HO, but it's timed different. HO timing gear moves the cam retarded about 5-10 degrees, which makes the power at higher RPM (also increasing the HP and torque peak, but to a higher RPM point than Renix) It was done that way to decrease NOx and ping (getting rid of the Knock sensor in the process) Jeep modded the trans as well. The O/D ratio changed as well. 5th gear and auto O/D became .75 instead of .70 to make up for the lack of lower RPM grunt. My rig (in my profile pic) has 3.73 gears, which were perfect with the BA 10/5 the truck came with and 33" tires. (20 mpg) Originally I tried the 3.07 axle and it SUCKED freeway driving. 5th was flatland or downhill only. Now that I've converted to auto, it really should have 4.10s with the 33", but only with bigger loads.

It's headed to scrap monday. Pulling the motor/trans in AM (motor is HO but the rings were stuck so it's going to become a stroker core)

2.8, diesel and '87 4.0L ones had it (not hooked up on the 6)

My '86 had the connector on the PS hose for that. You might find it near there.

My '89 Parts rig is 3.55 as well (and I have a matching non-vac front)

Model 20 in MJs was available '87 and early '88

Keep in mind there are 2 different flexplates. Early 2.8s were externally balanced and late '86 were internal. The 3.4L is internal.

You can get the universal vacuum ball from Napa for about $17 and it fits well under the hood