carnuck

Possibly www.oljeep.com has the Renix diagram too. Tom has all sorts of diagrams. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That’s why there are droparms and tracbar relocator kits. The side to side goes away almost completely if you make it sit level. http://bulletproofsteering.com/geometry.html Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If you don’t have longarms, then the tracbar will push/ pull depending on how far off level to the axle it is. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Did someone previously try converting to GM Fuel injection? If not, then your mechanical advance should be advancing too. Also, some cheap brand ignition rotors were know for jamming the HEI advance weights. That or your distributor may be hooked up to run GM EFI and it’s Computer controls the timing through a second pigtail. I saw some guys hook the advance to manifold vacuum which causes it to retard with the throttle and the mechanical advance counteracted it by advancing with the engine RPMs. Timing didn’t jump forward again till the throttle was let off. This doesn’t account for CTOs (Coolant Temperature Overides) in the vacuum line that work/don’t work depending on the engine temp or if it even works right. I run ported vacuum (hg/in rises with the throttle applied until past 3/4 throttle opening. ) As to where it plugs into the carb, that depends on which carb it has. You can check the ports with a vacuum gauge or even a clean hose to your tongue or finger. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It is the markup code that changes the font size. Quoting the post showed two Hs in brackets back to back.

Just a wild guess on the font, but there is several WYSIWYG or html codes back to back with no space between it might affect it by doubling the code. As for the wiring, when I converted my ‘88 shortbox 2wd 4.0L BA10/5 to Renix AW4/np242 I used the harness from a ‘90 XJ with that setup and removed the C101 from the circuit at the same time. The C100 pinout for the harness was the same and the transmission harness was on the engine side, but ran back through the firewall to the controller and the CPU. I don’t recall which CPU I used (I had 8 at the time) but I think it was an ‘89. The autotrans install was interrupted for about a year. I still have the engine side with relays from the 5 speed 2wd ‘88 to the C101 connector. The only problem I had was the trans didn’t shift on it’s own. Turned out the fuse holder was corroded off at the fuse, but not visible. I drove it several years after that before I started having the ignition shutoff issues at operating temp after changing the thermostat for winter. Renix years had the fuse box right where a leaky clutch master can pee on it, corroding all the terminals. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

74450 is close but I bought it before Motormite was taken over by DORMAN. It was for 70-81 TransAm which was somehow different from Camaro or regular firebird. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It sounds like the common ground issues these rigs have. I’d be surprised at a non-rusty Eastern rig driven in winter. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have a NP219 which are 23 spline input but they are shallow so I need a 1” spacer/clocking ring to run it with HO AW4 or AX-15 but not the Jeep/Mopar 727 (which it came with stock) It’s already fixed yoke outputs front and rear plus they were built for AMC V8s. Stronger than the NV249 in Grand Cherokees and they have an E-drive where front/rear are locked in 4 high or full time for highway driving. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My recent go around with the starter and battery not fully charging had to do with the cheesy cables put on by the previous owner. Packages said they were Oreilly’s brand but it was melted off inside the clamp so who knows what happened before I got it. I cut the ends off and put No-Ox on the bare cable with bolt on clamps. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I got the one I had from the Help! Rack at parts store. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have found both styles of 2wd hubs in XJs and MJs. My ‘90 parts rig has the same calipers, etc as my ‘87 shortbox but the ‘87 has tapered bearings. The ‘90 is 107,000 mile original so I doubt they were ever changed. It was a golf course crawler and spent 10 years in low range. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

On the other link above about suspension I pointed out that one cause of death wobble was likely from the lighter duty tierods and draglink playing skipping rope with the big tires and lift adding to it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I think the thinner tie rods, and draglink actually flex and may be a portion of the death wobble. I saw a video from under the truck once that showed them flexing and I checked that clamp and discovered it was loose! It had been tightened and checked a couple days before when we were looking for the reason for the wobble. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The rubber plugs lasted longer than the truck did. On an oily environment they might only last a couple years. I have a bare 7120 casting head for $30 that needs cleaned up again (it was Checked for flat and hot tanked) because a certain idiot didn’t do the roof repairs or anything he was paid to do (after 2 years of free rent and storage they tried to kill me and claim ownership but they got shut down) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Not the 2wd stuff prior to ‘89. The tierod on mine stripped at the center clamp then snapped as I pulled into my driveway without any abnormal off highway action. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It will act up if that line is clogged too. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Use a test light to figure which wire does which. A bad bulb will act up as well. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I added a push button switch with a strong spring so it can’t be accidentally activated. I still wonder if you got the wrong part in the box. The non-tilt slider switch is reversed to the tilt one and acts like you describe if put in the wrong column. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The Iron Ducktape! Unless swapped in, the Iron Duke wasn’t used in XJs, MJs or YJs because AMC had their own 2.45L 4 cyl Motor by mid ‘83. Even the AMC Eagles stopped using the dookie by mid ‘83. Postal Jeeps may have used them a bit longer but they had been using the Audi 2.0L in the DJ5-G til ‘79, which was a failure but they work well as parts for VW/Audi diesel conversions. As an FYI, the same 2.0L was used in Porsche 924 turbos for a couple years and ran well. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Most things up to the doorpost (B pillar) interchange with XJs. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just rough roads or curbs in general. Especially with bigger than stock tires. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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The first Steering stabilizers were put on motorcycles (with only one front wheel, it truly was death wobble if not controlled. ) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Starter relay by battery (same configuration as my ‘68 Plymouth had) Green wire goes to starter solenoid. I just replaced my starter on an ‘87 4 cyl and have to redo the starter end connector as I have an oem one now. Are you sure they didn’t give you a non- tilt column switch? Did you try putting the shifter in neutral? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk