mikekaz1

raising the dead! anything ever turn out about this?

would it be because of the 15 degree downward pitch of these trucks vs wranglers?

don't RUIN YOUR REAR FLARES. they ARE MJ specific and are not reproduced. they ARE different than XJs

so this being said... would that mean I'm beaking the law because my drivers door (and vin sticker) is from a Cherokee?

I have the 7" round LED Truck-Lites on my JK and they are great. So I tried the 200mm rectangular Truck-Lites on the MJ and was not impressed. Far less light output than the round ones. I also tried some GE Nighthawk LEDs and they were less than stellar also. I think it's more difficult to get a good light pattern with the rectangular housing. So I went back to the Hella e-codes. I know your down south hornbrod so I don't know how much this would affect you (or how often), but more specifically rmoore being in NY and with winters do you notice any ice buildup or whatnot in the winter when driving? that's one of the main reasons I never went to LED primary lighting because ive had many of storms that have iced up my whole front end with .5-1inch of solid ice but my headlights still melt and shine through. id imagine not with LEDs as they don't produce heat

Even with standard sealed beams the difference is night and day (no pun intended) at least a 30% increase instantly.

Replaced the ignition switch today to try and solve some funky issues I've been having last couple weeks. First when tuening the truck off there would be a weord electrical "thud" and then the radio would randomly forget its memory. Then the battery would keep dying if I left it more then a couple hours, even tho nothing was visually powered. So we will see if this solved it! Only $18 at napa

rebuilt the rear brakes and tied up the proportional valve.... haven't looked into it completely but it looks like the PO ran an additional second brake line and then T'ed it into the brake proportional line... not sure on actual braking help. but i left the rear in the air and hitting the brakes stopped a lot harder with the valve held up still.so i left it like that. and after a test drive it finally doesnt feel like stopping a freight train.

there is a propane based r12a refrigerant that you can get.

I know I got the bolts off of the ZJ booster with a deep socket, swivel and a 1ft extention on an impact gun, and then the two lines off the ABS module. had the booster out in under 5 min.

The lock cylinder is slightly larger too on the new style. If you can grab keys from that donor. If not your originals will for. It will just be slightly loose left and right. But tight in and out. I just put a dab of silicone on the inside to keep it put

Sorry for the delay. The hinge will be exactly the same as yours. As ahelbyluvv stated the striker is different. I was able to use the hole from the old pin striker as the lower hole for the hoop striker. Thus only had to drill one hole and no visible defects.

Thank you!

i don't think the 97 door panels loo bad with the old dash, here's mine

the 97 doors use the exact same hinges as the pre 96 doors. i don't know about how much more work the 98-01 doors entail

truck looks sharp tho!

i think it would be easier to just swap the window and mechanism over then try to get the panel and handles to fit.

Curious. I'm having trouble following how you wired the third "x?" Relay... Are you series wiring the 87 high output through the X coil then to the high beams and using the x relay to then switch lows? An alternative would be a DPDT high relay and send one NO leg to high and one NO leg to low. (If in not mistaken) that would make low be only low with no high back feed. But control both high/low with high.

Ahh gotcha!

A picture would be cool. Because I'm super confused

Good info and options. But does anyone know a difference between a dual diaphragm XJ and dual ZJ? Or have length stats I can at least try and measure/compare on the ZJ. As I have a parts ZJ in my driveway already. And if its comparable or exactly the same I'd like to save the money on buying one.

also keep the housing to the truck. 1991 should use a 2 wire speedo and a 96 will use a 3 wire. just swap the 91 speedo assembly to the new one. it will fit.

don't have any pictures, but id imagine angle iron would be your best bet

Hauled a full load of bricks today. About 450 bricks and some large rocks/3000lbs. Dropped the rear end about 6inches over empty!