mikekaz1

I can tell you from industry experience. Many fuel brands are identical... but (at least here in the north east) Shell IS one of the best fuels on the market due to its specific additives,fuel conditioners and general site maintainance/upkeep. Most of the fuel industry is "smoke and mirrors". But I find shell does have an advantage and a reasoning to its normally higher price.

The fan relay is fed by two fuses. The fan fuse supplies the line voltage for it. But the coil voltage is sent from another in the line up. If I'm not mistaken. But I forget which one exactly. Double check all slots have a fuse and/or that they are not blown. because that was part of my issue too, it knocked out my reverse lamps and a couple other functions

Also got a new windshield installed and repaired some cracked and chipped fiberglass on the visor and repainted. Also added some cab lights to it

So I've been randomly popping my park lamp fuse every so often. It will pop on activation, I'll toss a new fuse in and it will be good for a week or so. Then pop again. Finally it got to the point where it was ever time instantly it would pop. Disconnected the rear harness and tried again and wala! No more popped fuse. I knew a previous owner hacked in a trauler harness so i Removed the whole rear harness and checked for faults.... HOLY COW! I don't know how this truck didn't catch on fire, let alone have taillights at all. Many wires were cracked and broken or had previous "repairs" that were so awfully assembled I couldn't believe it. The parking light harness was the worst which was cracked and broken in about a dozen places and melted and fused with the ground wire in many locations too. Sperated all the faulty wiring and repaired with new marine grade heat shrink or replaced where necessary and also spiced in a 5 wire trailer set up.

Don't do this and drive it. It will put the ECU in limp mode. It is really bad for your truck. You can damage the engine or your cat. yes, sorry should have wrote for test/diagnostic purposes only.

you can also "trick" the fan on by unplugging the temp sensor on the t-stat housing. that should kick the fan on immediately. on my 1991, I had an alternative issue. my electric fan wouldn't turn on till ~250*f instead of ~216*f as it should.(and it would frequently cycle to that point) tried new sensors and swapped nearly everything, contributed it to just old wiring and connectors and a raised resistance preventing /slowing the activation of the fan. I ended up parallel wiring in a stand alone temp sensor to kick the e fan on. now I stay 160-210*f no problem.

id imagine it does... :dunno: the 4.0 is/was based upon the 2.5 in design. so id imagine if the 4.0 had it so would the 2.5

Tried out some rustoleum "professional" DIY roll on bed liner. Kit goes for ~$80 at most big box stores. I'm actually really impressed with it so far. Its all very even and was very simple to apply. Much better then my previous experience with herculiner, which I was very dissatisfied with.

Hmm I'm actually kinda interested in this too... since I'm running an HO ecu but I have a renix block with the knock sensor still hanging loose next to it. If I could possibly splice and reconnect it with some positive results.

For what its worth. "Midgrade" is a hoax. Only buy the lowest or highest grade. Thank me later.

"Seal all" works amazing for gas stuff

Ah OK... so the spacer is a semi necessity. Wait... dirtyC, you got a booster for $19?! I'm sure that's like half the price the commies at the junk yard would get me for a used one!

8"-10.5" holy @#$% those are long!

can you explain whats going on with that shackle? something doesn't look right....

my old p71 has a calibrated speedo :yes: ive had that at 140mph before

Unless the pump is DOA and that's why you're changing it... Hmm good point...

Not a bad idea!

even my pops 1500 ram with the 4.7 only gets 10-14mpg. surprising the chevy(gmc) gets 16+ while towing.

hey, id rather spend $80 and have it sit on a shelf in my basement for 5 years, then need one and find out you can't buy one! (like it has been) Nah, I wouldn't buy a part just to stash it. My sender's had a rough life and I never really was happy with the very noisy Airtex time bomb in there anyway (and my fuel gauge has been wonky for a while too and it's gotten to where it's really bothering me) I'm partial to hoarding... but for something that can single handedly leave a vehicle useless, keeping a hard to get, or possibly hard to get (depending how long these stay in production) part in your personal stock is never a bad idea

zj has a shorter rod? someone refresh my memory... was the 95/96 spacer plate to compensate for enginebay/firewall clearance, or to better adjust/lower the pedal? or both? if it was just to lower the pedal then this may not be an issue.... and actually be easier

I also made a DIY/ tech writeup with this info, please search and add info or request a change if I had missed something or misinformed anything.

hey, id rather spend $80 and have it sit on a shelf in my basement for 5 years, then need one and find out you can't buy one! (like it has been)

an eyeballs shot, the pedal mount looked the same on the ZJ, not sure on length though, I don't have an issue being a guinea pig seeing if it will work, worst case is I go "huh it won't work" and I go pull an XJ one. the trucks not my only vehicle so I don't care if its down an extra day or not. but its not exactly my top priority so who knows when it will get attempted either.

Empty - 105 Ω 1/2 = 33 Ω Full = 5 Ω Not linear for some reason.......... so its within 5 ohms at each point, should be pretty good!

$125 plus the price of a pair of Spyderco spacers (plus shipping).and a set of brackets $20-50 Plus the price of a pinion flange adapter. That means we're up to, what? 300, give or take? Not a bad deal at all. I went out and got me an 8.8 myself. :thumbsup: I got one sitting in my TJ