mikekaz1

again, thanks for those documents. so after some browsing and reading, from what I have understood... the computer uses MAP, coolant temp, intake temp, exhaust o2, crank position(speed), battery voltage, (maybe some other variables?) the HOs will go back and fourth between open and closed at various times depending on sensor signals and driving conditions. open loop is determined by MAP, crank(speed), intake temp and coolant temp (cold curve?). closed loop is determined by "sufficient operating temperatures and a idle or cruise condition." using open loop as a base but using the o2 sensors as the primary modifier. the coolant temp sensor constantly monitors "exact" temp but basically gets divided into two categories. cold curve and hot curve. in which cold curve (presumably openloop) looks at temps up to ~125*f and hot curve(presumably closed loop) looks at temps above that ~125*f. I couldn't find any "proper" air temp requirements for closed loop. MAP sensor looks for high pressure/low vacuum for idle/cruise(closed loop) and low pressure/high vacuum for WOT (open loop) low voltage conditions the computer will increase the injector "on time" to adjust for reduced fuel flow caused by low voltage(low fuel pressure?) -so from my understanding as long as your engine operates above 125*f, air temp is "proper", and you are at a idle/cruise speed, you will (be able to) go into proper closed loop operation.

hmmm I never herd of tail lights being routed through the radio..... sounds like you popped another fuse on radio install or something.

And it has lasted without issues? 2 years no leaks so far

yeah, I never quite understood why there was never a "factory" equipped hitch or wiring. it was all aftermarket and wire splicing.

Bad engine ground?

I run a HO intake and exhaust on my renix head

I believe the TJ lowers are around an inch shorter then the XJ/MJ control arms. I believe the WJ rears are around 3" longer then XJ/MJ arms though, and commonly used.

Hmm. So let me catch up... you tried without the front or rear harnesses attached. And you tried without the cluster in? What about the in dash lights?

The lack of license plate provisions really kills a lot of the aftermarket bumpers for me.

And you said you already changed the headlight switch? Because it really sounds like a switch issue.

Ah. Gotcha! Well that was part of my Dilemma too. I wanted a really good snow tire also in 33x10.5. As I plow in the winter and those duracraps were gawd awful.

Don't do drop brackets and a aftermarket short arm. That's redundant. Get a quality adjustable short arm that has the bend in the center and be done with it. Also make sure your track bar is adjustable and correct.

Huh. You might be the only person I ever met that didn't genuinely love the all KO1 or 2

I've never seen a front hitch that mounted with that style bracket. I've seen many that use the sway bar bolts. Never that round contraption.

That crossbar looks correct. But that mounting is nowhere close to ok

I'm fixin' to get those exact tires here soon. If they're anything like the original KOs then I'll be happy I think they look awesome. I've only put 30-40 miles on them tops. But they are noticeably better then the duratracs that were on it. I don't get nearly as much wheelspin, the duratracs loved to just spinout if I was trying to merge quick or something. And really you DIDNT like the KOs in the snow? That's one of there highest stats on tire rack.

Ah OK. So a low coolant temp won't have very much input into this process?

:thumbsup:

I believe it was IDed as whatever the engine size was. Kind of like the old Mazda b series pickups.

What's the 2500 for? ^^^ Metric ton. I couldn't find a 3500 from the junkyard to save my life. Finally just settled on 2500

Hmm that's pretty neat. So "cruising" uses no fuel? It just spins the engine around till you hit the accelerator or 1200 rpm. So it looks like on this it goes back and fourth from open and closed depending on the condition I sent an email for the whole packet. But guess my real question would be... I ditched the clutch fan for a standalone electric fan with its own temp sensor. This has seemed to work very well so far. Other then the fact that my gauge temp fluctuates between 170-210*f but mostly stays closer to the 170 mark. This may be due to a stuck open t-stat as its my understanding that besides initial warm up you shouldn't necessarily drop below the predetermined temp on the t-stat. but I don't necessarily dislike this as I prefer the truck to stay cooler. But alternativey I don't want to be constantly burning rich and stuck in open loop due to improper or "toolow" coolant temps. Which is why I was curious on what exactly controls the in and out of control loops.

You need a trim tool to remove it, search utube for trim removal, real easy to do, save all the plastic clips that you can, or get a few extras from another donor (or new) to make sure you have enough. If the nubs are still there, you can install the chrome trim. And mikekaz1, If the channel is "too deep" on your Jeep, wonder why only on yours? Reality is that they screwed up your glass install. if the sealant bead was thick enough 3/8 to 1/2 an inch thick, then your glass would have fit perfect (nearly flush with the body metal) and the rubber garnish would fit proper and look good. This is true also for the chrome option, if the sealant 'bead" is not thick enough, the chrome trim will not fit tight and have gaps between it and the glass, making it look like crap. See my windshield install in the DIY, both front and back were done at one time or another. Dunno. I watched the guy do it. He used the right caulk tip and what not. Who knows. There's always next time. Horray glass coverage

it just looked out of place above anyways. looks much cleaner under the booster

the 4.0 and aw4 along with the auxiliary tranny cooler and d44 was rated for 5000lbs from the factory. matched with trailer brakes I see no issue with towing other then maybe being a tad slow from 3.55 gears

or if you take out those control arm drop brackets, it will move the axle back some too. the combination of control arm drop brackets and extended length fixed arms is kind of redundant, normally the idea of drop brackets (in any sense) is to cut costs and use factory hardware, whether its control arms, track bar, shock tabs. not to necessarily combine it with extended length aftermarket parts