mikekaz1

they are plastic welded together, but I was able to successfully separate a set using a screw driver and carefully "cracking" the two halves apart. if I remember correctly the tops and bottoms aren't attached at all its just the long sides that are.

just a notice.... shouldn't this be tagged as june? not april...

So he was saying that if you do all the work, he will charge you for the job? Umm, yeah, no. haha that's what I got from that too. uh yeah instant no

Little poser shot with my chrome wagoneer badging

I mean they look easy enough to make out of a small block of rubber. so not a crazy big deal

following.... mine are also fairly rough

wow! look at that oil pressure! its off the charts. :yes:

Dunno but nice MJ!

there is no right or left rotor, both are the same. my guess is the original passenger rotor was just worn perfectly around that backing plate. take the rotor off and smack the backing plate with a hammer to bend it out. or pull the hub and remove the backing plate all together, personally I remove the backing plate on all of my vehicles. I don't care about "extra dust" and for me it allows the rotor to be cleaned out easier, from rocks/mud/debris, and makes me believe cooling is more effective as theres nothing blocking the back or top of the fins

:thumbsup:

never will understand that one... independent steer front with a solid axle steer rear

ahhhh mine has the leftmost one. But doesnt have the "full" liner on right. Just an rusty empty hole and whats left of the steel that used to be there 20 years ago

I know MA inspection you need to have a side marker front and rear. Reflectors front, side and rear. And front MUST be amber and rear MUST be red unless factory equipped with a clear lens. I swapped my TJ to flush mount round LEDs with a black backing and clear lens. And they made me swap out for a red lens. Or else they would fail me

Is the splash gaurd a inner well part? Or are they talking like mud flaps? Because the picture description of them looks very similar to the mud flap outline.

Side markers, reflectors, backup lights, they're totally illegal setups as shown here. well they said its dual STTR lights. But I wasnt talking about the legalities or anything like that. I just meant the whole design in general. Its almost just too plain. Even with lights set in them. Theres just a visual aspect missing. Maybe its the locked in memory visual of a pickup always having a full tailight but then not here anymore. Idk...

Ok, just wanted to double check my theory and math. And Thats why initially said over 16 as that was my lowest physical reading. But it just kind of surprised me because all the other jeeps Ive owned mileage normally goes down significantly. But this has nearly stayed the same even with the high gearing and big tires. As my TJ on 33s gets 14mpg and my WJ on 30.5s gets 17 best. It through me off seeing the MJ get 16-18 on 33s.

Wait... 7 and 8 aren't the metal outer wheel well? I've never noticed a rear plastic liner on any of my 5 MJs

I'm torn... I can't tell if I truly like them or not.... for a "bed trailer" or heavy wheeler, probably, as you'll never have to worry about cracking one. But Idk if I could/would do them on my daily. Something just looks missing about them.

hmm that's pretty cool. I never noticed those before

Has your speedometer/odometer been corrected for the larger tires? I swapped it, but it's not perfect still. Its near exactly 10% off (reads slower/lower then actual) so please correct me if I'm wrong. But if my odo is reporting say 160 miles and I've used 10 gal I'm getting 16mpg. Now that reading is (roughly) 10% less so I really drove aprox 176 miles. While still only burning 10 gal. So my true value is closer to 18mpg.

I read both the Zj and Tj swaps requiremodification of several parts to work with the Mj rear? Are you saying differently? Its not so much the cost new or used, right no i simply don't have time to dick around with hunting parts and modifying them to work. If i could buy all the peices id be great with that. I've always been under the impression it's only when using the more readily available zj d35 backing plates and bracket that need to be enlarged to fit the larger seal and bearing of the mj44. I would assume the TJ 44 would already be the correct size to fit a mj44 shaft and bearing

30" HERE Awesome! I like that a lot. Did you have to trim the bumperettes at all? Or did it just clear the inside? edit: just read further on the page. Says it comes primed.... so you sent it off yourself to be chromed?

those temps don't sound out of place, these engines typically run 180-220 for normal operation

as for junkyard finds I know people swap ford 8.8 brakes and zj disk brakes as they are nearly identical. but has an issue with centers being too small to pass the bearing through and needing to be filed, but other then that it seems pretty straight forward. also a possibility of a liberty 8.25 working as they are disk brakes. if you wanted to catalog buy them you could essentially buy all the replacement parts for a TJ44 and have everything perfect bolt on and new. a big problem I find with the teraflex kits and others, is many use "oneoff" parts, so replacement rotors and what not aren't part store specials, you have to buy them from the kit company

$40 for 6 factory specific pads :dunno: doesn't seem bad to me. you say you've been searching for months for a replacement. isn't the months of searching worth more then $40?