mikekaz1

what was the factory stats for the pot?

and you got 16mpg?! was it all downhill? I got a 4.8 in my work van, I'm lucky to get 12 empty.

I have a booster from a 98zj already... would that work? I assume id still need the spacer?

diesel chevy?

$125 plus the price of a pair of Spyderco spacers (plus shipping). and a set of brackets $20-50

What do you have for a brake booster? on the MJ? factory :thumbsup:

I love my 235/85r16 pizza cutters.

That truck is great looking!

If its 4.10 then its not factory? As far as I knew only 3.55 were on the d44 from the factory. Not a bad thing if that's true. Just something to check

Full- 2 ohms 3/4- 22 ohms 1/2- 41 ohms 1/4- 66 ohms Empty- 100 ohms The potentiometer actually shows the "steps" in the scale for each position

here it is! so couple things.... it uses straight external fittings rather then ~90*s, it looks like the supply/return are swapped, the pump/float is 180* off. but overall the dimensions look pretty close. also, it came with a new lock ring and o-ring included.

also, for the conversion besides the brake assembly, you need a flange adapter correct? is there any other equipment you need?

ahhh ok... any knowledge on the true differneces and/or pros/cons of the ZJ vs Ford conversion?

it does and will see heavy hauling. but I really haven't seen a braking increase on my TJ when I went from d35 drums to 8.8 disks.... so that's why I'm also sceptical

so I have a mj d44 in my parts truck I plan on swapping over, now it already needs a brake rebuild (its old, rusty and has been sitting a looong time) should I just rebuild the drums, or do a disk conversion. I have a complete 98 ZJ rear axle sitting at my house, its pretty rusty also, but all there... is there a big difference between the ZJ conversion or a Ford conversion? and pros or cons to either? or should I just leave drums? I did a full 8.8 swap on my TJ and really never noticed a braking efficiency change... just gave a benefit of not packing with mud and water offroading. the MJ is and will stay a "pavement princess" so offroad conditioning really isn't an issue. ok rant over,

Head straight to the front parklamp sockets. Got hitch wiring? front park lamp sockets a "brand new" I had to cut the factorys off and lengthen the wires and then convert the sockets to the wagoneer sockets when I did my nose conversion, this problem has happened before and after this modification, and I KNOW my connections are properly made. as for the rear..... :no: its a disaster, I really need to pull the harness and completely remake it. the previous owner was a "certified" electrician and made a lot of "proper" connections. :mad:

Oddly enough. I have a strange issue with my park lamps also. I think its something messed up with my headlight switch. Every so often, maybe once every 15-20 tines, when I pull my headlight switch. It blows my park fuse. Havent figured out a true reason. But it's quite annoying

It showed CHP and DHP as the same part, just alternate numbers. But this one was just like someone said screw it and threw any sticker they found on it.

So auto zone called me. Part came in. Drive down and opened the box... and it was NOWHERE close to bring correct. Sticker said CHP10148 but the pump was dead straight and only like 6" long. No clue what it is suppose to go to. But there ordering a new one. And should be in tomorrow

There should be a plug right at the back of the bed. That separates the harness. Try unplugging it. This should at least tell you if its before or after that connector.

That's a perfectly descriptive picture! Still waiting on autozone to contact me. But will update accordingly

Just to give you a ball park. Since I'm running pretty much what you just described. 3" HD coils upfront. Hell creek Metric ton out back with a 1"shackle. 33" tires and Napier flares.

do you know or can you give a rough measure of the depth and bend in that? so I can match it up instore?

well just called my local autozone, they said theyd get one sent up and call me later today, so when I get it, ill post a in person pic to maybe compare it more closely with your NOS one Don.

curious though, why does autozone list for $72 but everywhere else ive cross referenced the part number (hp10148) its $120-180? not that I'm complaining but that's a pretty big markup... makes me wonder if the qualities truly the same