mikekaz1

factory jack and a 4x4 or a 2x6 works great

Picture? AAARRRGGG - Sunny day.......... whered you get that chrome light bar?

hmm nobody seems too crazy of a combination but I guess for the most part everyones in the upper teens regardless of equipment. makes me also kinda wonder why I hear of XJs barely getting 10-12 mpg... maybe theyre just bad at math.

Curious what gas mileage everyone's getting specifically with different tire/gear combos. I have a HO4.0, AW4, 3.55 and 33s and I'm averaging over 16mpg around town. Which I think is pretty good. ...But my main curiosity was I want to swap to 4.56 because I don't care for how much "pickup" I lack. Especially when heavily loaded. But just curious what everyone's combo and average is. As I don't want to potentially destroy was mildly decent mileage I am getting. Even for a decent power gain.

It would just ultimately be wheel well to light bucket measurements to gauge effectiveness. My guess is the bulge flair would be easiest. As more then likely the full side will still need decent modifications. And I'm sure the bulge is cheaper.

it'd be close. Not 100% sure from picture comparisons. I know I've seen them with bushwackers and napier aren't far off from those.

It's my understanding you can't get bushwacker pocket flares anymore. But personally I don't see this as an issue as personally they were too rounded and "bubbly" looking. The napier are a much cleaner boxer style look that compliments the MJ much better.

i dunno. All i find is links to how much people love them. Yes I know the factory flares on an MJ are bigger then a XJ. but as for aftermarket flares as long as they a cut out style, whether pocketed, flat, tube, ect... there's no reason an XJ flare wouldn't fit an MJ. You just would net ~1" less wheel well vs the XJ due to factory sizing.

do they make a 2 door rear fender? that should be 95% perfect for an mj. the xj rear quarter and the mj bed body lines are identical albeit the wheel well being ever so slightly larger and the fuel door they are not. Fitment around where the lower part of the fender jets out near the bottom is different. the pictured rustys flares don't go past the lower body line anyways, so any dimensional difference is negligible. and regardless the lower quarters similar enough that even if it did I doubt youd notice, how else would 2 door fender flares (napier/bushwacker/ect..) fit an MJ at all? if they weren't atleast near identical

putting an mj leaf upside down would look bizarre in my opinion. and if you were actually able to secure it smooth to the full main leaf id imagine there would be so much tension that it would ride horrendously. putting a cut down main in the normal orientation would probably increase payload some. and shouldn't effect the ride height at all since the leaf pack is under the axle and the stationary spring arch is the same still so I wouldn't believe youd gain any spring lift

the only complaint I have with the napier flares, is the edging used. its an L shaped edge and doesn't adhere to the body lines well. fenders themselves are great I love them.

do they make a 2 door rear fender? that should be 95% perfect for an mj. the xj rear quarter and the mj bed body lines are identical albeit the wheel well being ever so slightly larger and the fuel door

false. o rings are not the same for r 12 and 134a. on a side note. they have begun making a new substitute for r12 called r12a. its a propane based refrigerant I believe, and is a little more readily available.

I would stick with the factory 12 pts. there specifically designed for that location and its tighter gap tolerances between the axle shaft while turning and ect...

hooray the woosification of America!

I'm torn, I really like the concept of the black reflective. but my trucks already gloss black. so they won't be very visible during the day, which is one of the main reason I want the stickers, to make the jeep stamping stand out. I also want to do possibly the silver eliminator sticker. but all my factory badges are black/green. so I'm torn on that too, id want the rear jeep and eliminator stickers to atleast match

I have 90333mi on my 2014 293cu.in :yes:

You heard wrong. All my turn signal lights, including the "Euro" ones on the front fenders are LEDs using the stock flasher. All the exterior lights except the two brake lights are LEDs. Even the head lamps. :yes: EDIT: Thinking back, I do remember that I had to swap one L/R pair of turn signal LED bulbs (in the tails IIRC) back to incandescent for them to work. I assume that the two incandescent bulbs provided enough circuit ballast to allow the flasher to work. hmm, swore ive herd/read that somewhere. had to do with the low draw and the fact the markers used the false ground to alternate. something with the leds wouldn't alternate it properly, but I never did an led swap so I never personally confirmed or denied.

I already had an el32(?) relay as my plow lights would make the factory thermal flasher go berserk. so that's no problem.

In curious if they found a tie rod or drag link from another application to make the upper part of it? Then only the lower part with the bushing would be custom. no clue, that's a long tie rod end tho!

ive herd the front marker lights don't like them very much, especially on the HOs with the alternating turn signals.

I would test each wire with a multi meter and see if somethings backwards. then try looking at the back of the lights, it should be pretty apparent which wires go where. I think it went ground on the far side, door switch in the center and constant on the end?

ive driven my lifted TJ with no front sway bar for 5+ years, and I just put one on my MJ after 2 years without. yes theres more body roll, no its not uncontrollable. its really personal preference whether you like it, and can handle the vehicle still based on personal skill.

weird design, ive never seen one like that. all that ive seen use the threaded bar rod end. but I do like this concept as you don't have to remove the bar to adjust the position

sorry if I interpreted it wrong but it seems that they work properly when the passenger light is disconnected? could it be the passenger light is faulty itself and or wired backwards?