Marine1Texas

When we 1st had BA10 we had issues after a while. the internal slave would not press all the way and make it not go in rev. For a while we shut off put in rev, then start up. We got ax-15 fast after that. that was in 1990.

The one that is open is the EGR. Looks like the cap off is to the EGR. EGR not opening is not going to be a issue unless smogged. I would go with a weber 38 dgs. They are manual all the way but have auto choke. They run very smooth and easy to bump up sprayer size if wanted

yes in Part Time 4wd which most have, all 4 tires are trying to turn the exact same ratio and is tied together. When you turn the tire on the inside of the turn is wanting to go the same speed as outside, so you are getting skipping and you get binding on the joints that drive on the front. Unless your in slippery I do not recommend using 4wd, also I don't when you have to do a full tire turn lock. This adds all the strain to those u joints that drive front tires. I have a Full Time system that allows me to drive in 4wd all the time. I even get small pops in turning sharp. I my self leave it in 2wd all the time, unless I need the traction, at that point I go to 2wd low a mod to trasfercase before I try 4wd .

I would not drive it, you can cause more damage.

good to hear....

most new dryers don't use them. They use internal baffles on 134 and newer.

you can make a hose that has a foot more or less on the connection end. Have it pre-bent.

I make my own, or you can have some one make them for you. nice about custom size is you can make it easier to service later. most a/c repair shops, hydralic hose shops can make them.

1st this is for clean threads the move without any burrs. I normally hand tight all the way down, then apply 9 lbs of pressure on the wrench 9 to 12 pounds is more then enough. Most of the seeals can handle 19 lbs, however the seal only needs to be at half since it is no prone to move. I find that most people who have car a/c leaks it turns out to be the valves for low and high side. Most people are not gental with the stems. the stems are the weakest link of mo'st a/c systems.

When ever I do a a/c check for leaks, I like to pressure with co2 and you can use soappy water. Most leaks are in the hoses and in the connectors. if you pinched a seal when putting on, or over tight you will get a slow leak.

I did it a few times. Had broken pipe right near trans cross under and it basically dumbed straight out. I would just squash pipe down flatter till I get it back to the shop. keep rpms low.

I normally replace the master, slave and hose all at once. I only use oem parts. When we had a BA10/5 we replaced internal slave every 5 years or so. We did find that it is good to replace your hose at the same time. If your fluid is dark, it is a good idea to replace the master as well. When putting you tranny back in, make sure to grease up that throw out bearing good.....

you can not adjust timing on a Renix 4.0. It is computer controlled, and the bolt on the dissy only comes out to take dissy out. The only thing you can do with timing with out converting to a HEI system is indexing it. http://cruiser54.com/?p=68

yes. I have 4.10 with the 5 speed NVG3550 and with a modded 241 that I can drive in low 2wd. When I pull on roads I never go over 4th gear and never over 60 mph ( I have never had to use 2wd low on the roads, since the renix puts out good low end power also with the 4.01 1st gear . 90% of the time I stay offroad in 2wd low. We have put better shafts in the rear 44 and the front 60 when went to 4.10's. I never drove or had the aw4 with 3.55's so I am not sure how it handles the extra weight. The engine it self is good enough for pulling the trailer, just getting the power to the ground, and braking the trailer. You could always use a electric brake for the trailer that would help out with braking.

I put a tongue weight of 415 lbs with a tow weight of 7200 pounds on 87 4.0 4wd longbed metric ton with updated 5 speed, 4.10's on 31's. I pull it 13 miles to town 3 times a week at 60 mph. The brakes needed upgraded, factory will not last long with the weight we pull. The truck is not made for this much weight even with the ton package. However with mods you can make it work. Our MJ that we use as a farm work truck has been modded on many area's to handle what we throw at it. A few things think, make sure your auto is got a good cooling system, you can over heat it quick, as well as your engine cooling system will need to be at peak cooling. The tires 235 are great for normal driving, if your going to stay with the 3.55's I would say 235/70's would give you a little better power, as well as your brakes will work better. You would loose a half of inch or 1 inch of rotation, but every bit helps when you have a heavy load. I think that pulling 3000 lbs on d35 can be done, but life span can get short quick. a d44 would be better and with a 4.10 in it. I say pull it around the block and have room to do a straight power brake and then a nice, but not fast take off to 45 mph. See how you like the feel of it. This will give you some idea's.

Ouch that makes it hard for a good repair. not everyone would agree with me, however I would do this. grind down the rest so flat. then I would adapter with 1 to 2 size bigger thread fitting. tap it out to the much larger size. Then put the new adapter in the trans, make sure it seals by using some locker. Maybe even a few drops of on the tread to make it permanent. Then you can adapt your cooler line to the new fitting on the trans.

Stroke it out to 4.5 or 4.6 is straight forward. any other engine will require motor mounts and got change a tranny or adapters to tranny. If you have the Dana 35 it would be advice to upgrade to more beef, since to much torque will make life span go fast. There are a crap load of engines you can drop in it however wiring and fab work may make you go more then you like. Easy to change the rear ends dana 35 and new ring and pinion on front dana 30 from 3.55 to 4.11. your notice a seat of the pants, also needed if you want much larger tires. Rebuild the 4.0 in to a stroker 4.5 or 4.6 with all the bells and whistles. HO intake With the large throttle body, the larger injectors and if you want a turbo would add a big jump as well. The Renix 4.0 takes well to upgrades.

I use the license plate camera mounts. they are easy adjustable and easy to replace. Here in Texas the lens gets burn out about every 3 to 5 years. The MJ I have has the video on the rear mirror. I wired it to be on all the time since it takes up a very small part of the screen. My other trucks all have the double din so radio with video works best. Frys sell the Boss camera they can be had for 4.99 on sale and normal price is 19.99.

you can also suck the fluid out. Then there is a tricky one time mod that makes it easy. Drill out a small whole on the bottom of the plate about 1/2 inch up from the housing. then tap it and put a plug in. then draining is easy. I have done this. Then once drained, I push a little bit of clean fluid in the top and wait till it comes out nice and clean. I never got why on most diffs they never put a drain plug. I change mine every year since we pull heavy loads in 4wd lo all the time in the back 40.

sounds like to much pressure and your breather is clogged.

Yea the company that hit the truck was very quick to get me what it was insured for. Since it is a farm truck and I have employees drive it full coverage with extra, insured the price of the rebuild. So I came out about 2000 ahead of what I had it insured for. Sad to see all my work I put in to the truck go down the hill. I am just glad none of my ranch hands were in the truck when it happened.

nothing at all was remotely salvageable. Looked as if the front of the ax15 just broke off in the bellhousing. I am pretty sure the bottom of the block got cracked. The engine was pointing at around 45 degrees and the trans was smooshed on the pavement between the body and the cement. the rear of the truck looked better then the front. It was a loaded flat bed that some how just rolled over the passenger door. I never seen a front drive axle broke like that before. The insurance paid enough to get a 2012 f250 super duty with 80k on it. One of my ranch hands was in mccoys when they herd the crash. I came down to see what happen and I was floored to see that little blue truck like a pancake in the front.

yes no flowing coolant can cause clog, I drain what is left after I divert the coolant. My blend door works but there is a crack in the door, and I won't be fix till I need to pull the hvac out box back out, on heater core replace or something of that nature. I am down to one MJ the 87 now anyway. the 88 got totaled with the new 4.6 in it. semi truck ran it completely over in the parking lot at mccoys! he lost his breaks and says he did not see it, big bummer for that little work truck!

Yep vacuum down, change dryer receiver, add oil for the Freon your using. then your be set for many years

true that! however in middle of summer down here in Texas when it is hot and humid I my self don't want any heat at all in the cab! :)