Marine1Texas

When you find the part make sure you get 2. They do not last very long. We had one on a 85 Cherokee and it seems to last only a few years then stopped turning pump on. We had to do it from under the hood till one days a semi totaled it out.

You have to do some testing. I would 1st the easiest, with new fuse, unplug radio harness should be able to just unclip from back of radio. Check if fuse blows still. If it still blows it is not in the radio units it self and part of the wiring or lighter plug unit. Unscrew your lighter plug unit from dash and see to make sure no shorts around back terminals. If still blows leave radio unplugged and get you meter out. You can check to see from + wire to body of truck if your getting a short. If you are getting a short then you need to trace back which wiring is shorting. Either radio harness positive or positive from lighter

Yes make Sure you get the brass cap n rotor. Like Cruiser said not all wires are equal. I like normally get accell 8.5mm blues for all my trucks. Make sure to also check you wire coming from coil to cap, seen bad ones that can cause issues. I did not see if you checked spark. As Cruiser tips check your coil pack and make sure the leads are clean of corrosion. With your blow over it can cause problems with connections.

Thanks too Akula69 Should be able to receive that box and have it installed in a few weeks.....

Awesome to hear that. I Sent you a private message!

No worries! I will keep looking and not going to be ready for road for another month or two. Still got to install new front and real axles. Going with rear disks brakes too. Today I installed the 2nd gas tank. gauge reads good and pump switch over works good too! If anyone else has one give me a a holler!

Thank you Sir. Much appreciated!

I found me a project truck and want a/c in it. I am looking for the HVAC Box. Does not need to have fan, but would be a bonus. Needs to be a/c box since I already have the heat only box. It is for a 1988 Jeep Comanche 4.0 Pioneer. I am located in Dallas Texas and looking to spend no more then $150 for the box without fan. I already have dash torn down and new heater core and a/c under the hood hooked up. Just need the box so I can put evaporator in and put back together. I finished putting in a 4.7L ATK Crate Engine and a nv-3550 trans with the np231. I would like to finish off the inside of truck now before I paint it.

missed that! Thanks Cruiser.... Check that wiring in ground behind tail light and the ballast resistor as mentioned above. Make sure you can hear that pump kicking in, mine is loud when first put key in to start for 2 secs or so. That hose seems to always be the problem for me in the tank, maybe a small hole in it. Make sure to check pressure with the regulator vacuum unplugged to see if the psi is higher. that is the easy way to check the regulator.

check with regulator unplugged should be around 38 to 39 psi. If pressure is good and then drops to much below 31, your regulator needs to be replaced. If not then check filter out, then move back to your pump. could be a small hole in the line gas line in the tank going up from the pump. if not then could be a weak pump. Every 10 years or so I have to change the small 4 inch line of hose in the gas tank above the pump. it splits and starts spitting gas back in to the tank not allowing pressure build up.

Burping on the renix seems easy for me, 2 ways to go. 1. burp thru temp sensor on rear left of engine. 2. raise front of truck up and burp it that way. I have never had problems burping it in either of these ways. Now if your still getting overheating 2 things to check. 1. make sure your water pump is pumping and the impellers are not broken. 2. make sure your thermostat is opening all the way and is not stuck. Things else that could be causing overheating, Bad fan clutch, timing is off, or a head gasket leak....

^ what he said! welding is cheaper and after market only going to make look good!

if you wanting to go less you build it your self. you can get KN piece that will connect top of tb. then just tube and cone on the end. could cost the same or more then the box.

Marvel will be fine. after ever summer we do a cleaning out of oil on our farm trucks. We change oil and put in 50% 30 weight and 50% auto trans, run it for about 15 minutes at 2 grand. we drain it out and then put new synthetic 10W50. Our trucks always have clean oil, and never have leaky gaskets or seals. We put 300K on this old 4.0 and when we took it out to do a 4.0 HO head swap it was super clean. Some may not like my method, however results show for them selves. I do the same for my diesels too.

I do mine in Kaufman which has same as Dallas rules. If you have a tech that does his job, in Dallas county inspection they will flag it. Just hollow out your cat and put a flow master or high flow of some sort. In Texas you have to only worry about a trooper who will say it is to loud with straights. if he looks under see's no exhaust ticket! cats have to remain on if it came stock with one, since over 25 years old, cat does not need to work.

check the fuel filter as well! Check hoses in the fuel tank I had a pin hole once that cause low pressure. I would change fuel pump and the fuel filter. make sure to put all the new hoses in the tank when putting the fuel pump on.

Looks like carbon build up. you can always remove the manifold and clean it out. Or get a small tip vacuum head and suck it out. From the look of it, it is on the manifold side. Pressure over time drops in the rail and lines as it sits, that is why when you start it up you hear the fuel pump prime to get it up to the 31PSI. Good thing to replace the regulator at when you put new injectors in. Just make sure you have a snug fit when you put new ones in. I have had some really easy to pull out and some where the rubber ring was so hard it was really hard to come out. Just make sure not to tear any of the new orings!

Did you test the starter yet? you could have a bad starter solenoid that could be completely dead or you could even have a bad starter relay. A bad relay will get you nothing no start

So the start does not click or move? is it a Auto or a manual? could be simple as a switch not detecting the clutch in or not detecting it is in park. Give some more info on the truck what motor as well as trans. If you have the c-101 it is either 87 or 88. I removed my c-101 and wired everything direct. That ground to chase is needed. Even make sure you clean very good, and possible upgrade it.

some '89 models got the AX15 and others got the BA10/5. look under your truck at trans. if the case has the bolts down the middle seam runs the length of the transmission you have the BA10/5

the rubber you can make it flex again. there is this stuff called rubber Renue. you just put it all over it and after about 10 minutes it flex's pretty good

My idle has wondered since day one coming off the lot. My uncle who bought it said he had jeep look at it from 1987 the year he bought it till 1990 area and he said the hell with it. Never had a problem just a idle that went from 650 to 750. I have had it since 1997, replaced every sensor, and even put a 428 ECM in. It runs great but that wondering idle stay. The only time I ever had perfect idle was with a stand alone dizzy I dropped in. ran perfect and put old dizzy in and back to wondering. I even replaced the dizzy with a rebuild and same. So I just deal with it! Yes done every mod and cruiser tip. Even added extra big ground all over.

With towing anything for long haul you need things. 1. Brakes must be able to stop you and what your hauling. Remember the Comanche is a light truck 4wd lb was 3141 the heaviest. It can do 5000 lbs easy, however brake wear quick if your going to do stop and go. Going down a hill it can get fishy with so much weight pushing you. 2. the 4.0 has the power for flat however hills towing 5k will make you slow down and no OD. The truck is awesome and built tough as nails, however if you plan on towing 5k or more you should really think about a full size truck. I would say a 3/4 ton is about right for a 5000k to 7500k highway use. power and weight is comfy range. for truck from 1985 to brand new. I my self have a 2001 Dodge 3500 with 5.9L Cummins turbo. I pull a 15K trailer 2 times a month 400 miles and it does the job. If you going to do this with the Comanche, you going to need a beefy trans. If your going to stay with 4.0 I say get something like a TH700r4 if auto, and for manual a NV4500. Your never fail with either of those. You going to need to beef up the radiator as well. Your best bet is to use a D44 axle because you going to want the larger drums minimum. Would be a awesome machine, however I think more worth getting a full size truck.

I hear no vacuum sucking or noise from there on mine. Only ever sucking I hear is when you get to the sweet spot on opening the throttle but that is air going in to the manifold!

when I cleaned out my throttle body, the outlet from the throttle body broke off. I took the rubber boot out pulled the plastic line out and replaced it. cut a 1 1/2 inch plastic like piece from the plastic vacuum lines. I took a little rtv silicone and put around the edges. making sure not to plug or restrict new vacuum line. works great and no leaks...