Marine1Texas

You have to see if it is a AX5, AX-15, BA-10/5 or did it come off a later or new jeep! If it is AX5 or BA-10/5 you maybe in luck! If it is the AX-15 you need another bellhousing. Your looking at a speedo gear change as well since rear end gearing going to be different. also drivesharft. I think best bet to stay with what you have

My tuck was not ordered with the a/c system. I just put a under dash a/c system. all together it cost me 400 dollars. I made my own lines and the under dash system has a valve not a orifice tube. Mine was 1987 but I upgraded the bracket to the 1988 bracket so I can use newer a/c compressor. I used standard universal dryer. I did not want to look for the a/c control on dash in the junk yard. also found that the evaporator install required a new box to under the dash. the evaporator is too large to fit in the box. I spent about a 100 bucks on part then found out I needed a new box for fan and a/c core. It blow so cold it can start blowing ice. Now the one I got has a heat built in it too, so I took all the air system out and piped the tubing in to factory air outlets. Looks like this picture below. I just blocked vents up and made a tube from the side to go in to the dash vents.

So your ok with cold that is fine. and you don't mind the cold that is fine too. I like it warm that is my point :)

yes simple alarm with the blue module.

yea you lucky Cruiser, here in North East Texas it can be 25 or 30 degrees and I still need to drive around and feed. I still need to go around and fix fences. So I need my heater going good. I would hate to be 40 acres in back fixing fence and need to get warm hands with not heater lol

no it don't, because key must be in on position for lights to be on anyway with relay. as soon as I put in off and pull the key it kills the lights.

I don't have that blue module on mine. I like my relay because I leave lights on all the time anyway. it don't kill battery because shuts off when I turn key off. however to each there own...

This may not be yours, however about a year a go mine lost lots of pressure, turns out the hose in the gas tank had a crack in it. easy fix just pull pump and float stuff out and replaced the line.

mine broke too so I just added a classic style turn on off valve. So winter comes and I open up the flow, spring hits like now I close it off. I just plugged the vacuum line to it.

no I did not see anything there!

Mine did not come with the alarm at all. Only buzzer that key is left in . My truck did not come with a/c either lol. I bought my truck in 1997 from my uncle who drove it a total of 15,400 miles since he ordered it. He never did much other then a few oil changes. I got the truck almost like new. it must of been a option or the model. Mine is a pioneer model. I can leave the lights on and it will not buzz and kill battery. So I have the relay hooked up and the light switch always stays on. I have not taken anything off my truck, just added the under dash a/c heater system since I would have to replace the box and gotten a different control center for air.

yes it would, however would be come worse during braking.

it works good because will not drain battery only on when truck is on. you can just leave headlights in on all the time. it is same type of thing people do with amps in there car, when amps keep drawing low power when parked.

I will take some later and post up. after the rain stops...

don't forget little things like checking your coil. I seen intermittent coil failure before that did stuff like that. Some times coils just don't die right away. Like jmderyke stated check to make sure EGR is not stuck open as well. Was thinking check the distributor as well seen index problems before as a bad one got hotter.

Since it happens when you brake and you say tail lights and brake stuff is clean, I would check ECU plug and wires. If all seems good follow those wires to the throttle body. Auto is also plugged to throttle position sensor and wiring could be shorting out or not adjusted right. Unlike manual when you apply brake the throttle position sensor needs to apply extra information to keep engine at right rpm. Use cruisers tips to help test the throttle position sensor.

You could always use a relay to your lights. put a relay that that will trip on and off when you turn car on and off. Basically power would always been on to headlight however in the relay switch to allow the headlights to come on, it needs power from another source to trip it. You get the from the same source as say your cigarette lighter. the relay for on and off only requires low amps .

You can get them here http://downeyproductsnortheast.com/parts/ 1986-1992 Jeep Comanche Slant Side Tonneau Cover | 6' Short Bed | SST 206041 $299.95 1986-1992 Jeep Comanche Slant Side Tonneau Cover | 7' Long Bed | SST 206040 $299.95

Correct, but if the spark into the distributor is weak, it sometimes still won't make it to the plugs. That's why I said what I said. When my coil was getting weak, I would have consistent random misfires on new plugs, wires, cap, rotor, and distributor. Changed out to a new coil and almost all of my mistfire woes were gone. It's worth testing if you can. Agreed that is the way to go!

I would do as such. Check for spark on spark plug. if no spark go back to distributor make sure it is turning 1st, 2nd check if your getting spark to the top of the distributor. you said you have check that already. 3rd check wiring on the bottom of distributor to make sure signals are being pushed right, (ecu controlled timing). I my self would just throw a new distributor in. they run about $100 to $150 on the high side. If no spark or low spark coming from coil before replace check the grounding, renix have bad grounding all over. This is not too stupid question, however if injectors are not squirting gas that could be one problem then lead to spark doing nothing. Injectors easy to test if squirting, starter fluid in TB and turn over.

Bad design on the ccv that orifice tube at the back gets clogged, this causes high pressure in valve cover that can cause splash/blow of oil to breather line to box. Causing oil on air filter and in box. Most people just try to keep the orifice tube clean. What I did was Cruiser's tip's for cutting the fluted tubes down and drilling a hole in side. I then removed the little flap on the back fluted tube. Bought a spectra grommet part number 5339 (3$ for box of two got at autozone). I then put valve cover back on and put a pcv valve in. I found to have a better fit, I used grinder to grind the slits on the grommet deeper. I used a universal pcv that came with 3 or 4 different connections. (2$ at autozone) I connected the pcv with 3/8 fuel line to the manifold (3 feet 3$ Autozone). On the manifold I removed the old vacuum line and put on a quick release air nipple(1.50$ Autozone). it is 1/4. It is same size, just use some pipe tape to make sure a good seal. connected the 3/8 line to it and clamped both sides. Now since I upgraded from box to the Spectre Performance Cold Air Intake Systems part number 9945. The front line hose that went from valve cover to box go's to the metal inlet on the spectra. I found using a inline filter from valve cover to spectra tubing works great. I used that filter just incase ever oil to spit up, I want my intake to stay clean . It is washable so easy to maintain. However since I have had this hooked up for 3 years I never once had to clean it out. Since I live in Texas and no smog on truck needed (exempt older then 24 years), I also deleted my EGR to keep my manifold cleaner. They say it will make engine run hotter however mine before rebuilt and after runs right at 205 degrees all day and year long, without EGR. *** Note if you compression test and seems low. put a little oil in thru spark plug opening then test again. if you get a noticeable or big jump in pressure you know you have rings not doing the job, could be carbon built up or flat out bad piston rings. Bad rings can also cause high valve cover pressure. One more thing that can cause high valve cover pressure is exhaust valve leaks.

I replaced MAP, ICA, TPS, O2 and all vacuum lines. I even rebuilt the throttle body and put new line in for the map from it. I put new vacuum ball in and new lines for it too. I have replaced everything at least 2 times. I use this truck on my farm and it works great. Never had any issue other then the rough idle since I bought it in 1997. Yes I replaced dizzy. I have 2 extra ones and all work the same. I have enough parts to build three engines lol I replace the intake manifold and gasket. I did a leak test and nothing. I redone all vacuum lines and gaskets on whole engine.

I had this problem on my truck about 5 years ago. Is your oil psi high? my oil psi was high and it was spitting that oil out to the box. What I did to solve the problem was to replace that back grommet and the ccv below it. not really a valve tho. You have to remove the valve cover to do so. It happen again a year or two later. so I took all that off and got a pcv valve and have not had the high psi oil and the spitting of oil to the box.