AMCJeepMJ

Thanks for the Bilstein part number, Don! No problems with aluminum corrosion with the bumpstop extensions?

If you want to get all Fast and Furious, you can go this route: http://autostyle-usa.com/cherokee/FWD9N211110001/

I put a 2.5 lift on the rear of my rig and kept bottoming out [overextending] the stock shocks on parking lot speed bumps. I moved to cheapo Rancho shocks as a quick fix and hate them. Is there a Bilstein that will work for this kind on a lift of 2" or so? /threadjack

The bed has four loops, one in each corner. Get a piece of chain or bike cable and a combination lock to deter theft. If you don't want it sliding around either use a shorter piece of chain or mount it under your bed; a 245/75/16 will fit.

My 2wd had leaf springs which sagged. I have moved to the 4wd springs when I finally got around to changing them and now have a rear lift which gives the truck a rake. I would like to find another set of new 2wd leaf springs to level it out without having to lift the front.

Also: http://comancheclub.com/topic/39712-jeep-wheel-specifications/

Thanks for reminding me of the screeching of Fran Drescher again. I hadn't thought about her in quite some time, and it was nice.

They may have lost the 1 millionth Corvette, but they still have the only remaining example of an 83.

I have considered supercharging my 94 LeSabre with a setup out of a Park Avenue Ultra, but I don't want to mess with changing ECUs and wiring from one car to another in addition to adding the supercharger and other engine bits. Besides, a LeSabre isn't the best platform for performance [heavy car, soft springs with lots of body roll, very plush seats, small brakes, etc.]. I'm sure some of these issues could be resolved with parts off another H-Body such as a Bonneville SSEi, but even a supercharger on a 3800 Series II will still only get you 220hp.

The switch did feel like it was grinding as the knob was pulled out and rattles now that its out. Well at any rate I'm glad its done.

Ok, got them working- it WAS the headlight switch. Now to spend the next hour or so reassembling everything. Thanks for the assistance!

I have a one year old steering column with all new parts such as the hi/lo dimmer switch from columnsgalore.com. The Putco harness is just under a year old and has two 30a relays that are four pins each. Headlights are Osram H4 Silverstars with Hella housings. For both the bulbs to go out at the exact same time it would be more than coincidence.

Similar to other threads about no headlights- parking lights work, high beams work, headlight harness has been upgraded with a Putco from Amazon a year ago, but NO low beam headlights when knob is pulled out to headlight on position. Headlight switch sound like the culprit? I do not have a functioning multimeter.

I have a similar COMANCHE bedliner that I pull out about twice a year to sweep or hose out.

Replaced the fuel filter and both engine mounts. I'm generally not happy with the replacement rubber mounts as now every vibration comes through the body in to the cab vs the old worn out ones. I'd hate to see what poly motor mounts are like!

I've been using the Putco harness for a year and have had zero issues with it. Picked it up from Amazon and haven't looked back.

Neat!

I'm running Oregon's early 1960's-styled Pacific Wonderland plate. No options for customization on these. LED illumination too.

Better put an on/off switch on those red lights on the front for use in parking lots and off-road, and also do some light reading starting with: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Automotive_lighting which states: The colour of light emitted by vehicle lights is largely standardised by longstanding convention, first codified in the 1949 Vienna Convention on Road Traffic[2] and later specified in the 1968 United Nations Convention on Road Traffic.[3] Generally, but with some regional exceptions, lamps facing rearward must emit red light, lamps facing sideward and all turn signals must emit amber light, lamps facing frontward must emit white or selective yellow light, and no other colours are permitted except on emergency vehicles. and also page 4 on a FAQ written by a TN attorney general on tn.gov at http://www.tn.gov/attorneygeneral/op/2004/op/op170.pdf Be careful out there and let us know how many citations you rack up.

I run the LT235/70/16 Silent Armors on our Escape and am very pleased with them- quiet on the highway, great winter traction, not wearing down unusually fast in the summer. I chose the LT version to have a little stiffer sidewall. The only drawback is the cost at $800+ for a set with mount/balance/lifetime road hazard.

To beat a dead horse, I too suggest the Hella e-codes, Osram Silverstars [not Sylvania branded Silverstar even though they're the same company], and an upgraded wiring harness. Do it yesterday. With this combination, I outshine our 02 Escape with Osram Silverstars and our 94 LeSabre with Toshiba HIR bulbs.

As a brief update after 11 months, I have not yet had an LED license plate bulb fail. These are the ones I picked up off of Amazon as shown above. Only $0.99 +$2.00 shipping as of this post.

2057s use 12.8v and 14.0v and have are 6.7w and 27.0w per filament.* 2357s use 12.8v and 14.0v but have are 8.3w and 28.5w per filament.* A little brighter but the amount is very small. *the above numbers are from Sylvania Long Life 2057 and Sylvania Long Life 2357 bulb packaging as shown on Amazon.

It's a balmy 46 here in the Oregon high desert. There's people wearing shorts outside today.

I got my MJ bench seat cover from Ruff Tuff and have zero complaints about it. Did the saddle blanket in a caramel color and works great. Has handy pockets in the back.