AMCJeepMJ

This is what it should look like with wiper stalk removed and keys and keyholes visible, per the description above.

Check the video on post #7 in this thread to see how involved getting in to a Saginaw column is. You may be up to it... I wasn't. I found it faster and easier to just change the entire column out.

The wiper/signal stalk locks in to the column in two ways: - the main [metal] stalk which has the plastic end which has wiper speed marks and cruise control switch/end button -the plastic or chrome part that says 'push' to spray the window that stays put when you turn the wipers on The entire stalk is easily removed from the column by aligning the wiper to the 'off' position, grabbing the entire arm, and pulling firmly straight out [be careful of the cruise control wiring which leads from the column to the stalk if you have cruise]. If the arm does not come out, turn the stalk and pull until you are able to remove it. Once you have the arm out, you will see there is a 'key' or bump that fits in to the groove or keyhole where the stalk rod goes into the switch in the column, which allows the wiper speed setting and the cruise control on/off to be properly aligned. This 'key' will will not allow removal or re-installation unless it is aligned with the keyhole in the switch in the column. Also, a stalk with too long of key end will not allow the rod to snap in place with the key The 'push' part of the stalk fits over the metal rod with the key and may or may not be removable from the rod... I have seen both types on Saginaw columns. The 'push' part also has a 'key' which fits in to the column but around the keyhole for the stalk. The tension of the properly inserted rod key keeps the 'push' key in place snugly in its keyhole against the switch in the column and allows the window washer to be activated when twisted either away or towards you. Should the stalk rod key not be snapped in all the way to the switch in the column, it will allow the wiper settings to spin freely until the cruise wire binds it and may allow the 'push' part to spin as well if it is key is not in its own keyhole. If the key is worn off the stalk rod [unlikely], pick up another stalk from any Saginaw equipped GM car from the 80s in a salvage yard. Having cruise complicates this as the wire runs down the inside of the column. If you are sure you have the stalk rod inserted and snapped in place, the 'push' in its proper place, and it still spins, then you'll need to replace your switch inside the column. Finally, if you have to replace the in-column switch and your tilt mechanism is already failing allowing you to wobble the steering wheel up/down and side/side, it may be easier and more cost effective to pick up an entire steering column from a salvage yard [or buy one from these guys like I did], and only takes an hour to do.

is the the signal/wiper combination lever inserted all the way in to the column?

Other wheels fit on the Saginaw column... for example, I have a leather-wrapped wheel out of a Chevy Celebrity Eurosport. The station-wagon one my rig came with disintegrated and I moved to a leather 3-spoke, but it felt like I was driving a bus, hence the Celebrity wheel. Pretty much any Saginaw-equipped non-airbag wheel should work just fine... just get all the associated parts.

It's not the fuel itself to be concerned with, its the vapors igniting that makes things interesting.

I showed the linked vid to my stepdaughter since she drives a Voyager van. She didn't think it was very funny... but I did. 'ooh look, there you go again! where'd you learn to drive?!?' as it rolls over.

I get people calling mine a Cherokee but that's about it. I also get older [than me] folks [40+] trying to chat me up in parking lots or gas stations about the truck about maybe once a month.

http://jeepsticker.com/comanchesidestickers.htm

Saw a yellow F355 going the opposite direction on US97 in Bend last week; it came and went so quickly there was no chance to snap a pic.

No cars; I have a nice SSE-facing late afternoon pic of the Yaquina Bay Bridge in Newport OR... have had it as my desktop background for about 3 years now.

I watched where I normally shifted today with my 4-speed equipped 2.5 on my way to work coming off a light. Since I have no tach, this is in mph: 1st - 2nd: 10 2nd - 3rd: 25 3rd - 4th: 35 I know I can rev higher, but I drive like a granny these days for fuel economy. I'm not going to win many races with my driving style in the MJ.

I knew I kept this old honda-tech thread on drilled rotors bookmarked for a reason. http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=1437513

I use first just to get moving off a stop during daily driving and have usually shifted to 2nd before I clear even a residential intersection. With a 2.5 my rig needs all the help it can get just to get out of its own way.

For the spray-in DIY liners, do you mask the tie-down loops in the corners of the bed or just spray them as well?

Do you have a youtube vid of the exhaust and its sound? I am curious about the sound of this setup.

I got mixed up in some poison ivy while clearing some brush behind the house about 10 years ago while living in Texas. Took 4 weeks to be rid of and that with shots, washing, salve, pills, and everything else under the sun that I could get just to be rid of the itching and swelling. Legs, arms, lower back and sides. Ugh. I understand the 'poison' kind of plants produces an oil that is the irritant that does not break down with regular soap. Fortunately that particular scourge does not grow in this part of Oregon, so I'm safe for the time being.

Had the opportunity to drive a bone stock Plymouth Scamp with a 318 back in high school. It would indeed S&G.

And a poor man's F-18 to pull high Gs.

Comanches aren't a Corvette or a Ferrari... what kind of high-speed turns are you doing? Engine? Details?

This made my day. Thanks for the LOL. :laughin:

I picked up a 68 Beetle in pretty good shape in 2007; thought it would be a cool rig to putt around in. It drove awful, rode awful, was drafty, and not for me. We all started calling it the dung beetle. Sold it after a year and a half for $3.5k... so just about broke even on it. Never again.

The plaque may be on the firewall near the hood hinge on the driver's side. It's been a few years since I've searched one out... my memory may be fading on it. Regardless, the paint code is on the plaque once it is located.

Double post- sorry 'bout that.

The stamped plaque on the radiator support will give a code on one of the top lines. Take the code to a body shop or automotive paint supplier and have them whip up a few cans for your use. You'll probably want to clearcoat the panel you're shooting. For example, my 1987 paint code listed on the stamped plaque of my rig is AB, which is beige. Paint codes and color samples for 1988 Jeeps can be found at http://paintref.com/cgi-bin/colorcodedisplay.cgi?model=Jeep&year=1988&rows=50 I hope this helps.