AMCJeepMJ

So I finally got a chance to get a good look at the rig in bright daylight, and saw rust on the front subframe. I know these Jags like to trap water and cause the hollow subframe to rust from the inside out, and while looking over the rest of the underside, the rear independent suspension crossbeam had rust all over it, more than just surface... maybe from flood or was a rust belt car. This rig is a 'pass', but thanks for the advice on getting it running, everyone. :)

I used Seafoam via small vacuum line in a Volvo 240 a few years back and WOW did that thing SMOKE out the tailpipe. Just keep the RPMs up a little if doing the vacuum line trick, and stay out of the cloud created.

Spin by hand, or crank it over?

I'm looking at a 1991 Jaguar XJ40 (XJ6) Sovereign with an inline six that had water enter the fuel tank that the owner attempted to start... obviously the car did not run for more than a few seconds.The fuel filler on these rigs is on the driver side between the trunk lid and the back window as per image below. The tank has been drained, but the car has been sitting two years since. Unknown if the rest of the fuel system has had the water evacuated. Any thoughts on Jaguar fuel systems and how to get this rig running/driving? This is a pre-Ford Jag.

My 2.5 has the nub as well.

I'll be the guy stating to use an OEM equivalent muffler, as quieter is better especially if you live in a suburban setting. You don't want to be aggravating your neighbors when you go out to warm up your rig in the winter at 5:30 in the morning. However, if you want to push the envelope, try side pipes: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pte-h1050/overview/

We went with regular, non-cutesy names for our dogs: Macy [doxie/boston mix], sister to Wendy Wendy [doxie/boston mix], deaf, sister to Macy Rusty [shepard/chow mix], a big dunderheaded galoot

Another shot of the rig. Anyone on here know who run this or what setup?

http://blog.caranddriver.com/lemons-dallas-day-one-model-t-gt-cherokee-comanche-leading/ Nice to see a Comanche back out on the track.

I've toured the Texas BB35 down near Houston, the Lexington CV16 in Corpus, and the Blueback SS581 in Portland. They all are impressive in their own ways, but they do not have the presence of a WWII era battleship like the Alabama. Great pictures- love em.

Yeah, my daughter is 6 and fits in the middle of the bench just fine. I'll have to figure out a cup holder. Three across on the bench can get a little tight at times; I regularly run my slender 14 year old daughter in the middle and my 17 year old daughter in the passenger seat to school in the mornings but its pretty much shoulder to shoulder. Legroom is a challenge at times too, being a floor shift and when they have full backpacks that they are too lazy to put in the covered bed. Oh well.

Thanks hornbrod, I just found it: http://comancheclub.com/topic/4208-headlights-on-with-doors-open-no-chime/... you just beat me to it. :)

On topic, I do not have a buzzing effect with the key in, headlights on, etc.. When I drive on the highway with headlights on I sometimes find myself forgetting to turn them off when I park, resulting in a flat battery... maybe once a year. So I ask: What does this module look like for my next trip to the u-pull-it? Is there a part number? Where is this buzzer located? Thanks!

Micromanagement sucks, but its a fact of a lot of jobs out there. On a side note since you're in Clinton, I used to live on the SW corner of Nimisila and Kepler until 1979.

Sway bar and end link bushings are relatively inexpensive and easy to replace. Moog bushings are like OEM but are in my opinion squishy. Look for poly bushings and spend the extra $ on them. Regarding loosy-goosy steering, make sure your steering box is secured tightly. There is an aluminum spacer on it which can crack and break apart that can cause clunking and loose steering as you are sawing on the wheel. A replacement if necessary: HERE I hope this helps.

Rent a u-haul. See pics above for overturned towing rig, and there's a great youtube video you should look up showing a BMW towing another BMW and having an incident during the course of their abruptly-ended journey. It can happen fast..

Last week picked up ten solar panels of various sizes and voltage ratings [3'x4' down to a 12"x14"] on the cheap. Now I just have to figure out something to do with them all. I already have a smaller one hooked up to a voltage regulator and deep cycle battery which goes to a power inverter so I can charge my electric mower and weed trimmer up... more of a trickle charge but should be perfect for once a week usage of them this summer. Another one of the small ones will be going towards keeping the battery up on my old Buick when its not driven. Free electricity!

I enjoy creature comforts such as electric seats, power windows, remote locks, air conditioning, sure.... that's why I have a Ford Escape and Buick LeSabre in addition to the Jeep. Of the three, the Jeep is the simplest to maintain, gets better fuel mileage than the Ford [but not the Buick at 26 hwy], and is more utilitarian being able to haul a load if I need it to. It's also the most unusual of the three because while there's a bazillion Escapes and LeSabres on the road, while you don't see a Comanche other than your own every day. If you want to jump ship from being burnt out, I don't blame you- I was the same way with Hondas and haven't touched one in five years.

Reflective black J e e p lettering from jeepsticker.com for the past two years; very happy with them.

Square lights on the roll bar compliment the rest of the lights on the truck.

Bump.

I recently replaced my water pump on my 87 2.5, and got to thinking about the fan and fan clutch while reassembling: How do I know that the fan clutch is working as it should be? The fan free-wheels while the engine is off- which is good, but how do I know if the clutch is engaging/disengaging properly while running or going down the highway? Is there a simple method to test it? This fan is attached via four bolts to the water pump on the front of the engine, not on the radiator itself like a 4.0. On related topic, the fan itself looks like hell and am concerned it may be be properly balanced, and may cause premature wear on the recently replaced water pump. Due to this I am kicking around the idea of a 19" [if I measured it right] flex-a-lite style aluminum fan to replace it. Any tips or pointers on this upgrade if anyone has done it in the past?

Between the rear bumper and the tailgate, centered above the license plate you will see a hole which works a pulley to lower/raise the spare. Just put a long 3/8 extension in there with a ratchet and it comes down in no time. I have only attempted to put a 245/75/16 under there and it worked just fine.

Shipping a car isn't cheap and may cost as much as you pay for the rig itself. Do some research but its going to be high triple-digits from across the country.

Tactical placement of small dynamat [or equivalent] squares should take care of quite a bit of noise from an aluminum canopy.