mnkyboy

Depends on the wrench some will work both ways and some only go one way. I don't use one for disassembly because I have other tools for that.but I would say as long as you don't exceed max torque and your not pulling on it past where it clicks you will be ok. If you are putting a cheater bar on a torque wrench you need kicked in the head. Torque wrenchs are delicate and specially calibrated and should be treated as such, I make a living with mine and they have to be accurate.

Take the money you would spend on the swap and buy an MJ with an auto already in it .

If you have some fab skills you can buy the RC drop brackets for an XJ. The brackets will fit but the braces won't, some people remove the MJs added reinforcement which allows them to fit like they would on an XJ. Personally I don't like thier braces so I would use the brackets and make new braces that extend to the cross member. The RC brackets are cheaper and you don't have to deal with RRO. Or you could always do like I did and just make a set of brackets, its time consuming but not terribly difficult if you have some fab skills.

I cut my hinges off and replaced them with a set of XJ back door hinges. The back doors usually see far less use and are typically in very good condition.

I went with Rough country arms on mine but lots of places offer them. Your also gonna want an adjustable trac bar.

You will want adjustable arms or drop brackets and the shocks will be too short. 5" on stock arms will ride rough and won't flex very well. Also with stock arms the tires will sit too far back and 33s will rub the back side of the fender without trimming.

Some videos BPB got of my MJ at Elbe.

The d35 stuff won't be a bolt on but I think it could be made to work. IIRC the bolt pttern is the same but the hole in the center of the backing plate will need opened up larger. Then you should be able to use the entire D35 brake assembly.

I'd bet your right.

About the only thing useful would be the front arms which by themselves are not worth $400.

This one is a 4x4 too. Bens is a 2wd

Your truck is gonna be pretty gutless with stock gears. You will likely also lose gas mileage. Why do you want auto behind the 4cyl? Just a thought if you plan to lift it and such, most 4cyl autos had 4.56 gears stock and your axles will only accept up to 4.88 so you won't be able to put much bigger tires then stock on it before you start going backwards on gearing. Depending on transmission you should have 3.55 or 4.10 gears now.

Most newer engines don't have distributors.

Those years use an EEC-IV ecu which is pretty easy to work with when swapping engines.

EFI doesnt really complicate it that much. Once you strip the wiring down to just whats necessary it becomes much less complicated.

Chysler changed very little when they first aquired AMC, the trucks didnt change much and still retained most of the GM sourced parts. The GM bellhousing lasted all the way to the end of the XJ.

A light is not a guage, are you talking about the low fuel light? It still would have a needle guage.

The talk of mixing brands is kind of interesting. The MJ was offered with a Chevy engine but never had any Dodge engine. So wouldnt a Chevy engine be less cross contamination then a Dodge engine?

X2 My place looks like the Alaskan tundra.

People underestimate the 2.5l, mine could do 80mph with 33" tires and 3.55 gears. Now ive got 4.88s and it will easily go over 80.

They all have needle fuel gauges so the sender would work with either cluster. Its the temp and oil pressure senders that have to be changed.

Ive thought about that too. I'm just not sure what it would take to get one under the hood, the Ford mod motors physically a very large engines.

Other then oil and temp everything else should work. The tach will be off but if you take the cluster apart there is a potentiometer in it to adjust it.

Check the linkage, make sure its pulling all the way into 4 low.

Did you get the sending units with the guage cluster? The guages won't work with the dummy light senders.