mnkyboy

I would toss it on craigslist and see if someone can use it for parts or a swap. People use D30s in leaf sprung applications/swaps so the mounts won't matter.

Not certain on the early external slave AX5, but the later shares the same fork as the AX15. There was also a guy selling used ones on Ebay recently for around $15.

Another thing to consider is the Dakota bellhousing is setup for an external slave, if you end up with a pre 94 internal slave AX15 you will also need a new front bearing retainer to convert the trans to external slave. They are about $90 unless you can find a used one.

Problem is finding an affordable R151, around here if you can find one they go for around $800.

Theres a few guys here that run them with wrangler clocking.

It is higher then an MJ/XJ. The transmissions are the same though, the difference is which set of holes got drilled. Everything should be there for the other clocking, just need to drill the holes.

IIRC the splines on the input shaft are different on the Dakota trans so the clutch won't swap. You will also need to figure out a pilot bearing but thats gonna depend on what AX15 you end up with. I wouldnt pass on a good wrangler AX15, you can either run it clocked up or spend 20 minutes and reclock it.

If he can't climb up it, either the tires have to break lose or the engine has to stall. I believe he is also running 32s with stock gearing.

Notice he says ledge not ramps.

I can put a tire around 4' in the air with my fuel light on, I doubt thats his problem. I would say the main issue is probably lack of power/gearing,a front locker would help too. If its TBI its a 2.5l.

A small amount of diesel won't hurt anything, I wouldnt worry about cleaning it. If its empty just fill it with gas.

I have a set of RRO spacers, they are a true 2".

I know guys up here that would go crazy over it, its probably worth quite a bit just for the 5spd specific parts.

I'm guessing you don't realize what you have there, 5spd ZJs are extremely rare and highly sought after by ZJ lovers.

I am planning to use the stock senders and a pass through electronic speed sensor so I should be able to keep my renix guage cluster. Looks like I only need to hook up about 5 wires to make the YJ harness run the engine stand alone.

Mine were severely worn out when I got my MJ, I pulled a goodshaft off an XJ at the junk yard. FYI for anyone it applies to. The shafts are different between manual and powersteering but will interchange. The power one has a rubber damper built into it that the manual one doesn't have.

My D44 has D30 brakes on it, my new D60 is gonna have Chevy Front calipers on it.

I'm working on a similar swap, I'm putting a 95 YJ 2.5l and harness in my MJ. So far it looks like I can run the harness stand alone and I should be able to retain my stock guage cluster and cab wiring. I will know more once I tear into everything.

The lever is a hyd hand brake/park brake, it has its own master cylinder tied to the rear brakes. Its mainly for a drift or rally car but I use it to hold on hills on the trail, it also has a feature that allows it to ratchet like a park brake which is good since I use front brakes on the rear which have no provisions for a cable brake. Whats with the lever by the shifter...E brake?

No matter how you tune it a high strung 2.0l is not going to be a great truck engine. It might be cool for a street only MJ but for one used as a truck or wheeler IMO I would take even the 2.5l over a 3s.

Problem is the rpm. It takes the Toyota engine 7000rpm to do what a 4.0l does a little off idle.

3s gte 210 PS (154 kW; 207 hp) at 7,600 rpm and 22.0 kg·m (216 N·m) at 6,400 rpm. Looking at those numbers a stock 4.0l will have no trouble out pulling it.