mnkyboy

been a long cold weekend but the 5.38s are set up,lockers installed and the axles are all buttoned up,next I think will be an exhaust system then it will be about ready for a test run.

I wanna say my brothers MJ is a little under 6.5",probably closer to 6",i don't think he has had any issues. when i did my 3 link i built the upper link mount inside the cab on the passenger side so the arm actually travels inside the cab.

Claytons bridge does beef up the mounting quite a bit,my brother runs the Clayton 3 link on his MJ with 3/4 ton axles and 37s. It performs pretty well for an off the shelf kit and he hasn't been able to break it which is surprising knowing him.

Best thing to do is to read about radius arms vs 3 link in general rather than Jeep specific to get a basic understanding of each design. yes by design a radius arm will wring out the axle and bind,some people will remove one Y link or wrist the arm to help with the bind,either way it won't really affect flex because even bound up a radius arm will easily out flex any shock that will fit the stock locations. the big downside comes from the Fixed geometry,a link suspensions leverage works from the instaneous center which is the convergence point of the upper and lower arms,this is typically behind the rear tire on a multilink suspension. with a radius arm suspension this point is fixed to where the links attach to the frame which typically would be the transmission crossmember,because of this radius arms have high anti dive percentages and they also apply much less power to the ground compared to a properly designed multi link suspension. the placement of the instant center is also why a radius suspension unloads,having the center towards the center of the rig you will be effected by weight transfer more then a multilink which has its leverage point behind the vehicle. there is much more to it and vehicle dynamics is tough to explain,best thing is to read as much as you can.

It is throttlebody injected aka TBI,a single injector is on the throttle body.

I've seen the cab and unit frame separated on an MJ so it can be done, but it would be much easier to swap everything from one truck to the other.

It would be pretty easy to build your own stubby bumper.

There is a guy on the Comanche Facebook groups that deals in MJ parts.

I haven't ordered anything from them in years but i personally never had an issue with them other than slow shipping. i have seen some of their non MJ/XJ products that are pretty scary and dangerous,one of the sketchiest rigs i have ever been in was a YJ with a failed RRO soa set up and steering. one of their bolt on high steer set ups had cracked and the rear bolt on soa had slipped bending the stock perch and caused the D35 to spin an axle tube. it also had very bad track bar geometry making for an interesting ride.

their design is different than everyone else's,I made my own brackets a lot like the RRO brackets. the main bracket is one piece,RE and RC are a two piece design.

you might be better off running the RC brackets and just making some braces. Back when i had short arms on my MJ I built my own drop brackets and ran them for a while without the braces,i later threw some braces together,it was a pretty simple project.

the boy and I spent some.time on the MJ this weekend,its been a while since any progress was made. we got the limit strap in on the front axle,finshed the transmission mount and finally got the upper control arm mount finished.

My brother has the Clayton 3 link on his MJ,its held up to some serious abuse. I've also played with the Claytons radius long arm,it's also pretty stout.

my squirrels are pissed. I'm kinda curious to stick it on a dyno,gotta be making a lot more than the 2.5l TBI did.

you can make fun of my little 2.5l,4banger Jeepers are use to it.

I've never had one but a lot of the stroker info seems exaggerated,seems that a lot of strokers don't break 200hp at the wheels. they also typically seem less reliable than the original 4.0l. personally i think i would rather have a stock V8 that reliably makes the same or more power.

89.5-91 is small input,internal slave. 92-93 is large input,internal slave. 94 and up is large input,external slave.

a Jeep is good for that.

I'm building a YJ for a buddy,its got a mild 360 hooked to an AX15,custom 3 link front with air shocks,streched to 107" WB,Ford HP D44 and 9" both with air lockers and 5.13s. i know for a fact he does not have much money,a cool Jeep doesn't always mean your rich.

radius long arms do offer a smooth ride on the road but from an offroad perspective there are much better options. personally i would go 3 or 4 link mid or long arm,i would not consider a radius longarm for an offroad rig. the instantaneous center being at the crossmember is very bad,the high anti dive is bad. a radius arm puts less power to the ground,binds,and unloads on inclines. i have set up many of them but personally i won't run one.

i had mine at 8" for a little while with drop brackets and adjustable arms,i typically kept it around 6.5",it rode pretty well and worked great off road. even now my truck doesn't run long arms,and i can see no reason why i would ever want to.

Hopefully i can get it bolted in soon,the 4.0l had Brown dog block mounts on it which my buddy wanted back so i am waiting for him to swap them onto his new build so i can get his stock mounts.

Looked like a decent MJ other than the asking price seemed high and the Peugeot BA10/5 still being under it.

Picked up the 4.0l donor rig,i took it up to the shop this morning and stripped it. Now to put all the pieces into the MJ.

I've driven a few Jeeps with 4.0l, 5spd, 4.10s, and 35s. they go down the road somewhat ok but lack power offroad.