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mnkyboy

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Everything posted by mnkyboy

  1. mnkyboy
    So yesterday day after the clutch incident the starter sounded odd,last night i tried to start it and the starter would just spin. This morning i pulled the starter and found carnage,apparently the squirrels of fury was to much for it.
  2. mnkyboy
    Maybe an occasional driver,it feels like i'm driving a race truck on the road. It is cool that it goes down the road so well,now i need to see how well it works for its intended purpose.
  3. mnkyboy
    Drove the truck to work today. it drove very well,cruising 65mph with one hand on the wheel the whole way. The drive home was going good up until i got stuck in traffic and the clutch quit releasing,i felt it getting worse and worse and eventually it got stuck and stayed that way. After letting it sit awhile it was fine the rest of the way home. Otherwise i would say it was a good test run.
  4. mnkyboy
    86 does not have the provisions to put in the 4.0l radiator,you would probably need to cut the parts out of an 87 up MJ/XJ to weld into yours then run the 87 up hood. The 4.0l radiator barely keeps the 4.0l cool,i wouldnt want to try to cool a V8 with it. I run a 4.0l radiator with my built 2.5l,it works pretty good cooling the 2.5l,better than it does a stock 4.0l.
  5. mnkyboy
    It is only tied into the rear brakes.
  6. mnkyboy
    Finally decided the MJ was built enough for LEDs,maybe someday i can even get a light bar. I also got some shift boots to help finish off the interior interior.
  7. mnkyboy
    It's 1.5"x4" C channel,it's actually structural pallet racking that i salvaged. It's 3/16" in the middle but the corners are much thicker.
  8. mnkyboy
    Mine are C channel welded over the rockers,gives it kind of a faux boatside.
  9. mnkyboy
    If your going to use the Facebook groups try the Comanche ones,they are filled with people from here and alot more friendly. There can be some decent info on some of the Cherokee pages after you sort through the bs but you have to have thick skin.
  10. mnkyboy
    Finally got around to building a new trans tunnel to cover everything after the tummy tuck. I also fixed some rust areas in the floor and got all the lights working,i got tags for it Saturday so hopefully soon i can drive it around. I mocked up the interior to check fitment with the larger tunnel,everything fits so i just need to screw it all down.
  11. mnkyboy
    Steel prices fluctuate alot so you have to watch it,for a while we were getting DOM for about 30 cents per foot more than HREW was going for. HREW will work though in a hobby cage to keep cost down if there is a significant difference when you go to buy. As for the bender, any of the common brands will work,you will find that a lot of the benders will interchange dies with one another. The die is were most of the magic happens so most benders will have similar bend quality.
  12. mnkyboy
    Too bad your not a little closer,we have a JMR bender and 6 or more dies sitting at the shop but it's in Kalama. Definitely don't use Schedule 40,it's heavier than DOM and very soft. just a few weeks ago i wadded up a 3' piece that i was using to hold a hydraulic cylinder while i removed the piston nut,i bent the schedule 40 by hand with a 2.5" wrench,i was surprised how easily it bent. I know people have modded the HF bender to work with tube but i personally haven't tried it,i would get a tube bender,a basic JD2 or similar really isn't that expensive and will produce better bends.
  13. mnkyboy
    Haven't seen those,looks like i beat them by almost 4 years.
  14. mnkyboy
    I found a couple pics on my phone,you can kinda see what's going on.
  15. mnkyboy
    Pretty much just mock it up on there then connect the dots,it's not much of a bracket that you need to make.
  16. mnkyboy
    I ran an XJ valve with that set up,it worked ok but the rear was a little aggressive. I had planned to eventually go to an adjustable prop valve,the axle is now going under my 87 so i might pick one up.
  17. mnkyboy
    I used early (pre90) D30 bolt on caliper brackets and calipers,i had to make a small weld on bracket to go from the D30 bracket to the axle tube. I used post 90 rotors which go right on the D44,i cut the center out of the old backing plates to use as a spacer for the bearings/seals. The project cost me around $100 using new parts,the D30 brakes are larger than the rear brakes usually swapped onto stock Jeep axles and they are vented. Only downside is that there is no provisions for a park brake,i used a hydraulic hand brake.
  18. mnkyboy
    I rebuilt the coilovers last week,they were in rough shape but a few minutes on poly performance's site had me all fixed up. Looks like i could build a new set just from replacement parts if i wanted to. I put them on and charged them on Monday,i also buttoned up a few other things and set the alignment. It drives much better now and the wobble appears to be gone.
  19. mnkyboy
    I know a guy that has a dual Toyota set up in his MJ,he uses CC but i don't think the build is on here. He has a Toyota case hooked to an inchworm lefty case with 4.7s,iirc there wasn't much involved in making them fit his AX15.
  20. mnkyboy
    If thats too much to tackle they do sell assembled units but they will be about twice as much money.
  21. mnkyboy
    That's how i ended up with the Behemoth,the hacked up 231 kits were around $500 and the Behemoth was like $635 shipped. Stronger with almost limitless clocking configurations for barely more money. Originally i wanted to put a D300 behind it but decided later to go with a built 231 since i already had it,with 231hd/241 guts it should be pretty tough as long as i don't break the 231 housing itself.
  22. mnkyboy
    I see,it's the clocking ring on mine,i could have got it without but i wasn't worried about it. Either box has to be stronger than the mad rooster/box4 rocks ect.....and people rarely break those. I've already decided that if my Behemoth gives me trouble it will be swapped for a black box. For $729 the eco box kit is a good option for our Jeeps.
  23. mnkyboy
    I don't want to argue about it, but I've met the guys there and was buying NWF products when they designed the original BlackBox. It was designed around being bolted to a NP205, it's internally nearly the same as a Behemoth, but the case was made stronger around where it bolts to the second tcase, and minimal material was removed to clear the NP205 shifters. This was to avoid problems with having the case break from the weight of the NP205, even though they recommend you run an additional mount on it (you will break most aluminum transmission tailhousings hanging that much weight off them). I never asked him specifically why they made the Titan, as in if guys were having failures, but it's obvious that it's marketed to the big $$/HP crowd. The Titan has not been around for nearly as long as the BlackBox, which makes sense because the big $$/HP crowd is something that's relatively infant compared with tradition rockcrawling. I know a 205 will work with the standard box but the titan is the 205 specific box. It is stronger than the regular box for high power but it is also around 3" shorter than the standard box which is huge when driveshaft length is a concern.
  24. mnkyboy
    I have a Titan and 205 set up in the shop,until last weekend we had two eco black boxes and two Behemoths sitting there too. The eco boxes didn't look any beefier than my Behemoth and it uses the exact same gear set. Mine doesn't have the cut out for the 205 but Behemoth had a version that did,he also had the equivalent of the Titan that was about to release before he disappeared,we had one on order when Jacob quit responding. Really you could put stock 231 guts in an eco box and have the same thing as a 231 doubler but with a stronger case.
  25. mnkyboy
    The floorboard is mostly due to the tummy tuck,the entire power train has been lifted,i have about 7" of lift but the belly clearance is just over 2 feet,nothing is lower than the frame rails. The plan is to rebuild the floor with access panels.
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