mnkyboy

Problem with the roughcountry 4.5" lift is its $459. At that price its a great value for what you get but at the same time at that price you can't expect too much from it. A quality 4.5" lift kit is usually $800-$900 so I can't under stand how a person can buy the rc lift then complain about it riding bad or not performing well. You get what you pay for and for being under $500 I think rc did a pretty good job. I have to agree with Pete on Hellcreek for springs,never heard anything bad and he's a great guy to do business with. On top of that he gives us a discount.

Only thing I'm wondering is what does Oregon have to do with it? As far as I know no state is free of jackasses.

Jeepco I see what your saying but I don't think it makes it any weaker,the brackets are captured in there pretty good you would rip your leaf springs off before the soa brackets came apart. the bolt in kit uses 4 large bolts ,I don't remember what size they are but the are huge compared to the standard u bolts found at parts store which most people use when doing a soa. You would be more likely to break a u bolt and lose an axle then break enough of the bolts to lose an axle. I know there are cons to bolt in soa, like price and the use of the factory shock mounts hurting ground clearance but I wouldn't worry about strength. You would be fine with either set up. Knever as far as I know all bolt on soa kits are keyed into the stock perches. Also I have a bolt on soa and I have no vibes at any speed

Bolt on SOA works fine,I haven't had a single problem with mine. I can't see how welded perches and Ubolts are gonna be any stronger,the bolt on stuff is pretty stout. I figure once I get a d44 I'm gonna open up the perches up to fit the d44 then at that point I will weld them on. I kind of like them being bolt on with my d35 because if/when I break it I can un bolt them and move them to another axle. As far as the motion offroad SOA,I would pass. It looks like a copy of the RRO kit but twice the price.

I hate the terms long arm and short arm,there are many different configurations of each and they all perform differently. I don't have long arms but i have outflexed rigs that did. The best thing to do is spend some time and do research on the different lifts and see which is the type your looking for then look for a kit that suits your needs. Any lift kit is gonna make your truck go down the road. Whether it has everything you want is up to you and what your after.

I have too kind of agree with Darren,there are not enough benefits to the swap to justify it. Only way I could justify the swap is if i planned to tow with the MJ. Performance gains are minor unless you do the HO swap,I have both a 2.5L and a 4.0L the 2.5l is my dd so I rarely drive the 4.0l truck but when I do its not like I'm blown away by the power difference. And as far as offroad I don't see how having a 4.0l is gonna get you though anything a 4cyl won't. If I was to do a swap from my 2.5l I think I would skip over the 4.0 and do something else.

I have a 95 YJ wheel in my 89 MJ, it fit just fine. I had the two spoke wheel but i didnt hook up the horn button so I'm gonna have to trust hornbrod on that issue as I didn't pay enough attention to it when I put it on.

How did 58 people just happen to be here all at once back in 07 and we shedule it and don't come close?

There are more 88s in the registery then any other year.

IMO 4.5" would flex good with 31s but 33s will be a bit big but some would disagree. The fenders are the same and the doors are the same as a 4 door xj.

The problem is the gearing,regearing should make it pretty peppy

Rusty floors is very common on MJs, do some searching here and you will find several threads on floor repair/replacement.

Any xj with a 242 TC is gonna have a non cad axle regardless of year,also any xj with ABS brakes should have the bigger u joints.. I pulled mine from a 94 w/ABS so its a non cad hp30 with big u jounts,but then my 90 xj came stock with a non cad hp 30 with big u joints. So if you know what your looking for you can widen you search to 89or90-99,I would imagine the earlier axles will be easier to find the a 97-99

http://www.ehow.com/i/#article_5571443

Mine is at 6.5" and sits level

My 89 MJ was listed on CL as an 84,I'm glad I got curious and called the guy.

You probably have some water in it.

Just needs some love. When I was a kid one of my friends grandpa had one he converted to a motorhome for hunting,I always thought it was a neat rig.

Kerosene stinks so it would be bad at an apartment. I would look at propane heaters.

Would it even be worth lifting the rear? The rear should already be higher then the front,the springs might almost level it out.

I'm a little late but I'm here

Another big thing to look at when building a bumper is the mounts. You can't tell in my build pics but the finished mounts are over a foot long and tied in through the snow plow mount holes and reinforce the frame around the steering box. A lot of guys try to use the factory bumper mount locations,if you do this your bumper will be cosmetic only.

Don't know if you like tube bumpers but there should be some pics from when I built mine on my build thread.

Odds are even if I forgot I will probably be on anyway

How big of tires do you plan to run,if you don't want huge tires I would rather have the 99 8.25 and d30. A 99 8.25 should be about as strong as that 8.8 and its the right width, and the d30 is gonna be a lot stronger then the d30 you looking to buy. Only thing is the 3.55s which isn't an issue if you don't run huge tires.