Dillithium

I'm following this thread, too. I have a low idle when cold and it hovers quite a bit, nearly stalls everytime I depress the clutch and then picks itself up. its mysterious for sure.

For the love of Jeep, do NOT go with poly bushings for lca's if you plan on DDíng your pick up. I have fixed LCA's with poly bushings and I loathe them, they handle great but they pass on a lot, A LOT of road and axle vibration. I'm going with WJ LCA's in the near future, should be good up till 3'' of lift from what I've read.

Awesome progress so far, I hope to read more soon!

Here's another short update, and it's within a month of my last one! Be impressed! Something that's been on my list for while was finally done earlier this week, the motor mounts and transmission mount. I didn't get a lot of pictures while installing them, because it's not that interesting and it took longer than I wanted it too. But here's a pic of the old ones:(warning, you may be shocked by what you're about to see) The p/o filled them with kit, to prevent movement I guess? It didn't work, I suspect it was just a forgotten trail fix. The old tranny mount was completely collapsed and deteriorating. Cleaning the crossmember in the degreasing tank And to conclude, I removed the Cherokee badges off of my doors. Who knew it they were rubber letters with chrome stickers on them? I expected metal letters on a jeep, but I guess, I was once again, Chrysler'd. Plans now are to replace the rear yoke and rear prop shaft u joints. While I'm doing that, I'm going to inspect the fuel sender and replace the fuel pump. With the prop shaft out, it clears a lot of room to work in. Oh, and one last thing. Replace your motor/tranny mounts people, it makes a HUGE difference in driving a car. The car suddenly shifts better and seems like it has more torque. It's an amazing change for 25 dollars' worth of parts.

I'm stumped, someone elss with a little more experience needs to chime in because right now all I can do is spitball. But to be sure, have you verified your timing?

I feel like this post needs to be moved to the DIY section, this is the guide I followed and it helped me tremendously. I did it without the dual diaphragm booster and I found the braking to be good enough(with new pads and new shoes). That is, until I drove around with 700 lbs of cargo. That made my braking a much scarier experience, which is why I'll be swapping in my WJ master and booster soon. This is gold for people with a broken prop valve.

I used a Wells TU108. I had to modify the sender hook up a little to ensure good contact.

I replaced my temp sender when I did the gauge swap with my 2.5, that's not the right sender. It's on the back of the head with just one wire sticking out. My wire was pink in colour.

Hey thanks Knever, posts like yours encourage me to keep posting. The inspection was strict, and pretty frustrating at times but it definitely pushed me towards doing everything right. I have a long way to go, but it hasn't stopped being fun yet! (except the bills, those are pretty awfull)

Got a little update, it's been a while but I've been working on it steadily. Got facelift doors bolted on and aligned, I also got some new rims and tires. 225/70 Discoverer AT/3's. I decided to go BWL because i wanted the focus to be on the rims, not the tires. Also scored a set of Hella's as new spotlights, right now they're just a test fit because i need to wire them first. But I love the look of them. I'm also loving the full gauge set I installed, it's nice to know what it's doing at all times! Not having a warped rim definitely improved the ride, my next priority is my fuel pump that keeps cutting out. It makes for a weird idle. After that I need a muffler without 2 holes in it and a new powersteering pump. After that is all done, I can get started on my interior! Also, does anyone know how to get the Cherokee letters off of the doors? I don't want to scratch the paint and I've been fighting with them for a bit now.

MAP sensor testing: http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/jeep/4.0L/how-to-test-the-map-sensor-1 The 02 sensor you test by checking the resistance in the unit itself, by measuring ohms between the two wires. I'm not sure how many ohms it should be at, though. I believe between 6 and 8 ohms is a good reading. Please let us know what it is, I'm very curious.

It was a beautifull pick up, I hope you got what you were looking for.

In my case they were 12 point bolts, not e-torx. I don't know if they changed it throughout the years, but it's easy to confuse them.

It looks to be the driver's side U joint, to replace that seal the carrier will need to come out. As far as necessity, it depends on your luck. I've read on here that some people break seals whenever they take the half shafts out, others have never had to replace it. Considering the work that needs to be done to get to it, I would take the gamble and gently put the halfshaft back in. If it wasn't leaking before, let's hope it doesn't start now :thumbsup:

Does it only happen when in gear, or in neutral as well? Manifold bolts are all tight? How is the MAP sensor? O2 sensor all check out fine? Since it's intermittent, It has to be sensor related, but it might be worth checking the timing.

It kind of sounds like a fuel problem, even though you say it provides perfect pressure. How's the ballast resistor looking? Did you check the CPS for AC voltage? Is the fuel pump any louder than usual?

The ground for the fuel pump for the comanche is behind the driver's side tail light, try that cleaning that up.

I concur, it would be great to have a subsection solely for 2.5's. It would making searching easier and we could even do a tips and tricks for the 2.5 sticky.

Good eye! Thank you for the link, that would be an easy addition for sure.

That is a sweet looking subwoofer enclosure though, leaves a lot of space. I wonder how it sounds.

Worked fine, but I still need to adjust it. It's not accurate for my 2.5

My 86 2.5 had a metal clip to hold the speedocable in, my donor cluster did not, it had the white nylon fitting. I swapped over the metal clip to the new cluster to make it work.

That is a massive score, and I hate you for it! :thumbsup: Cheapest I've found so far is 400...

That's awesome, have you ever been here? It is a pretty good place to live, if you can live with the fuel prices.

I'd sell it to you Stevo, but I live in the Netherlands. It wouldn't be worth the shipping.