schardein

I messaged you.

I have these four missing the center logo. Top left is by far the best. Top right is good, has some RTV on the back where someone glued it in place, could be trimmed or peeled off. Bottom left has a bare spot in the painted part. Bottom right has a finger-width area of chrome missing on the edge of the inner ring, and missing 4 retainer tabs on the back.

I have a couple available. I also have new terminals to create a harness, or you can splice wires onto the existing pigtails.

That CJ was a well loved machine. It had an onboard air system (I grabbed the small air tank), suspension lift, vintage Con-Ferr leaf spring shackles (which I couldn't get off), leaf spring u-bolt skid plates, heavy steel diff covers (which may have held low gears and locking diffs!), genuine KC lights, stainless accessories (hood latches, mirrors), what may have been a factory T18 transmission (all that was left was the shifter handle, which I got. I think it was left by accident by whoever pulled the trans), and finally... a no longer available rear bumper/spare tire carrier combo that used to be marketed by 4wd Hardware. It can be seen sitting on the ground behind the Jeep after I pulled it, which is no easy feat, because it ties into the rear leaf spring shackle mounts at the frame bolts. I have the exact same thing on my CJ7. They were around $800-$1000 new if I remember right. Got it for $40. EDIT- and sway bar disconnects, and very well done custom rocker guards/steps. And the stock front bumper was perfectly straight- but welded to the frame. I went back for the grill, and it was in worse shape than the pictures show. I've got a couple wall hanger CJ grills anyway.

I'm not sure what your goal is. I am adept at vehicle wiring and have quite a bit of experience doing repairs and custom wiring. I've seriously considered a push button starter setup for my off road Jeep CJ. But after taking a long look at it, I kept returning to the stock setup, with the key cylinder and ignition switch- it's actually a pretty elegant design from a wiring standpoint. The stock rocker switches in a MJ/XJ work well for low amp circuits, and can trigger a relay for circuits with a larger load. But setting them up to work as a replacement for the stock ignition switch would require a lot of work and money, to end up with a system that is probably less reliable and user friendly than the stock system.

Here are a couple pics. First is an early XJ "rocker" seat base. Second is a regular XJ seat base. I thought I had some MJ seat bases to make a side by side comparison, but I couldn't find them- think I sold them.

Wish I could make it, but it's a 4 hour drive for me.

For the vacuum leak, it's common to find the vacuum line to the vacuum reservoir not plugged in. The vacuum reservoir is mounted to the back side of the front bumper on the pass side. The hose must be disconnected to remove the bumper, and it's easy to forget to reconnect it. I've done it myself.

I would start by looking at your main battery cables. If they are original, it's possible that even if they look good on the outside, corrosion could be inside, under the insulation. If the battery terminals have been replaced with those "bolt on clamp" type, those are ticking bombs waiting to give you problems. The battery cables power everything, best to make sure they are good. For the headlights, there is a connector located under the air cleaner box, near the backside of the driver side headlight. This connector powers the lights in the front end. Disconnect it and look at the pins. I've seen them corroded away to nothing. You may have to remove the air cleaner box to access the connector. For the wipers, check the wipers circuit breaker. It is in a clear plastic connector clipped to the bottom of the fuse box under the dash. These sometimes get kicked by the driver's feet, which bends the terminals that go into the connector. Bend them enough, and they break.

Since this thread was recently referenced in another post, I wanted to add some updates. This is my current knowledge on the MJ tail light harness connectors. 1986 MJs use a flat 6 weatherpack connector. I believe this connector is also used in 1984-86 XJs. 1987-1990 (maybe some 91s?) MJs used a mixed Metripack connector with five 150 series pins and two 480 series pins. Identical connectors can be sourced from some Cadillacs mentioned at the beginning of this post. 1991-1992 use a different 6 pin connector. These connectors can also be found in 1993-1994 Jeep Grand Cherokees (ZJ). They are used for the same thing, the tail light sub harness connection, and are located in a similar place, on the driver rear, clipped to the frame.

Excellent list. One thing I don't think I saw was front door manual window regulators. They are an often needed item, not reproduced. They take some time and effort to remove, but worth it for a good working one. And if you are removing the front wing windows, you are doing part of the work already. I believe some are pop riveted into the door (early years?) so a cordless drill and drill bit may be needed. I recently removed a pair from a 96 XJ, and it was all bolts, no rivets.

I'll take a look tomorrow

Actual MJ seat pic, do you mean this spring?

DandXJ, do you mean this spring? If so, you might be able to source one from an XJ. I have several XJ seat bases, I could look at them tomorrow to see if they are the same or similar.

76 CJ7

I like simple. I have some old CLP bottles in the gun cleaning stuff. I'll try that.

For those who use the ATF/Acetone or MMO/Acetone, what kind of container are you putting it in? I think a plastic squirt bottle from Walmart wouldn't work very long with acetone in it.

I don't know where you are, but if you have a Pick-n-Pull close by, last week they were running a special, $25 for radiators. I almost pulled an XJ radiator but decided not to. You can use one out a of Cherokee all the way up to 2001, if you convert to an open system.

An overdue update. I sold my 2001 Silverado 2500hd 6.0 back in 2020. It had about 340,000 miles on it. Bought it in 2010 after returning from Afghanistan, and made a nice profit after owning it for 10 years. Replaced it with a 2019 Silverado with the L5P. Nicest truck I've ever owned. Before I sold the old truck, I pulled the refrigerator, and the first thing I did to the new truck was install the fridge (2nd was the Carthartt seat covers). Had to modify the bracket. Used the existing console mounting holes, no new holes were drilled.

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Just the 1993-94 ZJs. I have a few 91-92 tail light harness connectors (from early ZJs, same connector, different color wires)

That's what I did for my LS swap CJ. Used the PDC from a 91-95 XJ/YJ and completely rewired it. There is a 92 XJ at the local PnP. I will be going there in the next two weeks. If it's still there, they list "fuse box-bare" for $21.99. So that, plus shipping. Do you need the metal mounting bracket it clips into?

Are you looking for one with the wires cut a few inches after they come out of the PDC? I could probably get one in a couple weeks from a local junkyard.

My build sheet was in the springs in the bottom of the bench seat, passenger side.

I've pulled a couple from junkyard XJs before. They can be surprisingly hard to get out of the door intact. I don't currently have any. I could probably get some in the next couple weeks though.