ggcnash

Yea don't want the front just rear. Just trying to figure out if all stock XJs, MJs with 4.56 geared rear diffs were d44's for some reason or other? Never seen 2.5 auto MJ, have come across a couple XJs though and both had 4.56 d44's? Just wondering, guess I will find out tomorrow[emoji106]

Obviously front is a d30 just talking rear thanks!

Hi guys gonna make a run to the JY tomorrow, buddy told me there is an 88 MJ 2.5 Auto. That tells me 4.56's right? If so we're the stock axles with 4.56's usually d35's, d44's or just a toss up depending on options?

Awesome truck, of course I'm partial to a white MJ[emoji16] congrats

Thanks HB, worked real hard on this thing!

Some shots with new wheels[emoji1]

Timing is off [emoji106]

Looks great, remove Comanche badges, I believe the Chiefs came badge less?

Awesome

Thanks, warrior great pics exactly what I was wondering!

I like it [emoji106]

Or this

Careful what you wish for. (Think Cherokee)Exactly, I would hate to know Fiat was designing it! It would probably be hideous, and just think of all the kids growing up now when the automobile Cherokee is mentioned in 10yrs that fiat thing is what they will probably remember!

Unbelievable fab skills on that bumper BTW, but I believe I understand what he is saying the bumper is not a step bumper like yours or oem so it doesn't come out as far and doesn't come down as low if that makes sense therefore, leaving the hitch like yours and mine sticking out past and further down which would look like crap if that's the case. Would probably be functional though just an eyesore.

What am I missing here? If the JCR bumper is higher and tighter than the stock bumper - the Drawtite bolt on hitch will still bolt to the frame just fine. It just will not bolt to the non factory bumper at the center of the bumper, right?Correct., it would bolt to the truck. I estimate a stock receiver would hang about 4" below the bottom of the JCR bumper. In my opinion this does not work as the end result would look unfinished. If I feel ambitious after a hot day of work, i'll hold up my Valley hitch under the JCR bumper on my '86. That's what I was afraid of would love to see a pic though for reference

Delete HSV dunno why people insist on keeping it besides the guys that want a factory correct show truck. Not saying that's gonna fix it just saying I would go ahead and eliminate that as a possible issue.

Think I might just build something like this, take some measurement to use drawtite hitch Thanks for the help guys[emoji106]

Yep, I found a cheap product that works great the headlight lens restore kit at Harbor Freight comes with sand paper pads and polish pads for drill makes them look brand new! The main thing is cleaning the inside for the reverse lens taking it apart works best, but if that's too big of challenge just get creative with skinny brush and hose. [emoji106]

Hi guys just wondering how far the JCR rear bumper hangs down, to find out if I do a little modification could I use my factory drawtite hitch?

[emoji106]If u do decide to tackle it, I may be able to dig up some photos if needed. To be honest, I didn't want to do it either was kinda intimidating at first but could never find a cluster that was close enough so I figured screw it I'll give it a try. The great thing about it you can get the Odo to be exact.

Good info HB[emoji106] I saw a write up once on the web where someone went to a grand Cherokee vapor canister (can't remember year) its smaller and mounted in bumper originally, he mounted it to the firewall of xj

The only way to tell is if someone disassembled your cluster lol! The tabs that are mentioned have a small melted ends on you can cut with exacto knife still snaps together just lets someone know it's been done if they disassembled of course. Kinda like a lot of electronics have xbox ps4 etc. just lets them know you opened it.

Just get small bit wrap it in electrical tape and touch it to the gear to spin. Cuts your time way down

Pulled this from net sounds about right takes awhile with drill but not as bad with just fingers. "First, remove the entire speedometer from the cluster. There are three screws in the back holding it in. Second, gently pry off the speedomter needle using a small screwdriver and your fingers. It should come off with little resistance. Third, remove the screws holding the speedo face on. Fourth, disassemble the odometer. It's fairly obvious how to do this. Just remove all the screws taking one piece off at a time. Fifth, remove the plastic section attached to the right side of the odometer. This is held on by two clips on either side, and has a small yellow gear that turns the odometer/tripmeter. You should then be able to freely turn the dials to reset the odometer. It took me about two hours to turn mine down about 60K. Time consuming, yes. But well worth it in the end. Once the odometer reads what you need it to, reassemble in the exact reverse, starting with the unit containing the yellow gear. Once this is back in place, it will hold your odometer setting."

Yep, done my 91 (250k-151k works perfectly)also cut tach for column shift at same time just be careful with the melted tabs, then roll back with drill (I've messed one up with Dremel to high rpms!) it's pretty self explanatory once you get in there it's set up to be noticeable once tampered with but who cares right.