knever3

This swap sounds like going fuel injection would be well worth it. That said you got the whole harness out of the firebird. If the motor is already pulled and you have to get another harness that would be a little difficult. Fuel injection is great, starts every time and runs great no matter what temp it is outside, rain or shine. I think you will be very happy about the swap and with all the support on this board you will get answers and pictures of any problem that you may run across. I would like to see some photos of the engine torn apart in a hotel though!! I am spoiled by having a 2 1/2 car heated attached garage...

I know this won't help your cause but I use Rain-X washer solvent on every car. With constant use I don't use my wipers much anymore. The water just goes away without the need of the wipers. I would clean the windshield good and use the regular rain-x before putting the washer solvent in the bottle. It just prepares the windshield better. I would agree with the ground. I have seen the wiper motors loose a ground because they have bushings. Just clip a wire onto the motor and ground it to the firewall and see if it helps. Sometimes the wiper motor board is bad but it's worth a shot.

Rust is the only factor in my book. Mechanicals can always be replaced but rust will never go away without major work. My MJ has only 39K on it but it sat outside for three years never driven. Much work later it would have been much easier and less costly to install a new motor. With that said all the work in the world won't keep me from getting mine on the road before spring!

I like the interior as well. I didn't know 87's came with that steering wheel? Isn't that from a later year? I would like one such as that one, I have the chevy celebrity type steering wheel and are having a hard time finding a black one similar to yours. Nice truck, can't wait for the build pictures.

This is similar and equally stupid!!!! You will love it and hate it for different reasons.

My girlfriend gave me this, sorry it's a bad picture but she got me the top and bottom New ball bearing tool box from Craftsman. Black to match my Comanche and Grand Cherokee of course!!!

I would change over the to the R134 too. Whenever you open the system you should change the reciever/dryer because it gets moisture in it and doesn't work as well. If you are going to change your evaporator core change your heater core while you are in there. The heater core/evap core is about an 8 hour job. You have to drop the steering column or remove it and remove the entire dash. Then you have to remove the inner airbox and split it to get to the cores. Keep track of the doors for switching because when you break the box apart they will fall out. It would be easier to remove the seat(s) so you can drop the column far enough to clear. 134 is just different oil and freon, you just have to get a fitting conversion kit. Hope this helps

Yeah, I remember working for Belle Tire as an alignment tech that they were around $50 a set retail, although if you can find someone that will buy them for cost all the better!! There are some problems with the bolts though. I have used sets like these and you have to tighten the out of the bolts so they don't swivel back and loosen up. I have done just that and they still work themselves loose with hitting potholes and such. (You wanna see death wobble now!!!) I would recommend either putting shims in back of the mounting brackets or using adjustable LCA's. I know they are expensive, but with a lift and off road use it's just the right thing to do.

I would like to buy some WJ upper and lower control arms so if anyone has any please give me a head's up! Of course the lower the mileage the better...

You are my hero!!! :bowdown: I always wanted to find out what they would look like installed. I have 245-70-16 tires and a 3" lift so I would like to run these too. I am interested in camber but there is always moving the lower control arms forward or back to compensate. Anyone have another set I could buy???

You are my hero!!! :bowdown: I always wanted to find out what they would look like installed. I have 245-70-16 tires and a 3" lift so I would like to run these too. I am interested in camber but there is always moving the lower control arms forward or back to compensate. Anyone have another set I could buy???

I took a look this morning and I remember what they looked like. The OE bolts aren't the adjustable ones, you have to buy those. I will have to elongate my holes in the body to make them slide forward more. In the past I have never gotten them to move on other jeeps because the bolts are so corroded and the plates are frozen in place. Not to mention the bushings are always froze up to the bolts. Thanks for the pic and the feedback.

That's a nice truck, to bad it's a 4 banger'. I like that front bumper on your XJ, who makes it? Is it Hanson, or is that another sticker from something else? Good luck on your build,

I am having trouble picturing these shim locations :hmm: I have worked on a few during my days as an alignment tech, but not every Jeep had these adjustable holes for the bolts. Only Grand Cherokees have these adjustable holes for adding shims. Can you post a picture of yours so I can see what you mean? I would like to get the WJ control arms and install these shims as you mention. Thanks!

Which ones do you recommend Pete? As far as I know you don't have to do anything special for a 3 inch lift except get new brake lines and shocks. Am I missing something? I have heard of a drop pitman arm, a transfer case drop kit, a sye kit, but do I really need any of those for such a mild lift? I have an adjustable track bar that I am going to put on to center the axle. I am not afraid to spend the money but this is going to be a street truck for 99% of it's use. I may go trail riding but the paint is great so I don't plan on anything major. I would like opinions based on this use if possible, not just if money were falling out of my pockets or to the other extreme the bone yard. I am just asking of the "Right" way to do it without making a show truck or a rock crawler. Thanks all

I would like to replace my upper and lower control arm bushings but is it worth the effort? I have seen bushings as cheap as $7 at quadratec and as high as $24 for Moog ones at Advance Auto, does it make a difference? I have also seen complete control arms with bushings at quadratec for only $35 each. I can easily change the ones in the top of the axle but the lower ones seem a pita to change without bending the control arm in the process. What would you do? I do not want to pay $200 for a set of uppers and lowers. I have a 3 inch lift so take that into consideration when answering. I want to buy new so junk yard ones would be out of the question. Has anyone changed theirs before, and again is it worth it? Thanks in advance.

Yes it does, that's what I have. The ax-15 and the ba-10's floor shift stalk is the same so this will work.

I have an annoying squeel and it usually is from idle until about 2k just like yours. I can wobble my water pump pulley so mine is the water pump. This may be your problem. I changed belts when I got it and it went away for a while and came back. I replaced the idler pulleys and then found the wp pulley loose. A wp change will be my fix for sure. As for the dual electric fan setup I wouldn't recommend it. I am sure I am going to get a ton of hate mail about this, but in my '01 XJ it didn't work as good as the mechanical, but it sure was quiet!!! I used the SPAL fan controller too, but in my case it didn't work out for me.

I know how you feel about beating a question to death because I am the same way. I hate wasting my money and time and would rather do some research before I make an educated decision about a purchase. That's what this board is for, and thanks to everyone. On that note I can't wait to get my axle in and drive my truck!

This is the one you need. I ordered one a few months ago and it worked great and exact replacement. They may have lowered the price because I remember paying $25 for mine. This one is only $7 plus shipping. I glued mine down with polyurathane calk you can get at Home Depot. http://www.quadratec.com/products/52110_01.htm Hope this helps.

These are great responses. I have a set of Superlift 3" coils that are a larger diameter and shorter overall length than the OEM ones so I will let you know how they ride as soon as I get my axle installed. I am hoping for a soft ride as well so we'll see!

I love your black buckets too. I have the black bench and I have two neices so it stays for now. I like the comfort of buckets but it's nice to have the extra room too. The radio install was nice too, you found out how to install it behind the trip panel, not many people do that and it makes a world of difference! Great job and keep up the progress!

I had a pair of mis-matched tail lights too, I just found a donar truck and traded one. I really thought to paint the areas black. Let me see pictures when you get done because I want to see before I do mine!

I am thinking of doing just that! They aren't that hard to change out anyway. Thanks for the support.

Anyone else?? I really don't want to do this twice if I can help it. Rather install the right springs and be done with it. Thanks