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Everything posted by knever3
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I thought I would post a pic of my mysterious girlfriend that loves to help me with my Jeep project. I got permission from her finally to post a pic so here it is. I'll let you guess where we were at the time. Can't wait for another ride together and camping this summer!! :driving:
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Ok, I took some measurements on the two hitches side by side. The Comanche JCR rear bumper: 2-3/16" side to side and top to bottom. The Jeep Grand Cherokee OE hitch: 2-3/32" side to side and top to bottom. Here are some pics: The JCR bumper: The Grand: And a video of my 2" drop hitch, remember I need a 10" drop for my Comanche so the movement will be exaggerated greatly with the other hitch. So what are your thoughts?
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Cheapest gas tanks???? please look
knever3 replied to one_bad_MJ's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
It's not cost effective to fix a tank for our Jeep. I called Gas Tank Renu locally and they said it starts at around $300! They said they fix tanks that can't be bought aftermarket anymore. I thought it would be cheap, boy was I wrong. I wouldn't fix it by pouring something in there because I feel my injectors are worth more than the gas tank. I bought mine off ebay for $119 I think, it has the interior baffle but the pump doesn't seat into a premade hole in the new tank, it just sits there. I haven't had any problem with the tank so that's my recommendation. -
How to install JEEP header emblems.
knever3 replied to knever3's topic in MJ Tech: DIY Projects and Write-Ups
No, it's not a leak. At least not from my truck. I have a hose reel mounted on my garage wall and the o-rings suck! I need to look for another better one. Nice catch though!!! -
MJ is Dead's 87: Operation Basecamp
knever3 replied to MJ is dead's topic in Member Projects: Your Comanches
That's one cool idea! I like the idea except I am always scared of people wanting something more than I do without paying for it. :wall: If only everyone was nice we could all have nice things!!! -
Where do you get these mud flaps? I want to buy a couple sets for my truck. Sorry to borrow the pic, but it's a good one. :bowdown:
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Great JOB! I really like your detailed work, kind of reminds me of myself at times. I like your amp board and T-nut install with the allen bolts, I also like your use of the foam baffles by crutchfield. I would use some dynamat inside them or outside them to add a little more mass. Overall excellent job, keep posting the pics.
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I bought a JCR rear bumper with the class 3 hitch reciever and I have a BIG problem. When I went to buy a 10" drop hitch it was sloppier than a cheap... Well you all know the end of the story. When I put the hitch into the bumper I could move the hitch back and forth and up and down about 3 inches!! :fs1: :mad: Imagine pulling a trailer with that!!! My first thought was a hand crank for a early model Ford. Has anyone had this problem with JCR before? I know they are supposed to have some play, but this is insane. I could and would not ever tow something with that kind of play. I haven't contacted the manufacture yet but I will after your comments. I have a Grand Cherokee with a normal factory hitch and it doesn't even come close to the play this one has. Did they use the wrong size 2" stock to build the bumper with???? :hmm: Thanks!
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Painting the underside after blasting
knever3 replied to comanche 88's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
That is one sweet underside of a pickup!!! :bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown: -
Most alternators are hot rated, which means they are rated at a certain rpm like 2000rpm. If your truck idles at under 1000rpm you are not getting say 100amps it's rated for. The only way to do this at idle is to get a alternator rated 100A at that rpm or getting a smaller pully for it so it spins faster at idle. Some trucks came with 60 or 85 amp units so check to see what one you have first.
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Got a big little project done that has been bothering me for a while. I installed the JEEP emblem on the front grill. I got them from a fellow member from here and am so grateful. :bowdown: So here goes, I looked at the job and contrary to other opinions I decided to try it my way. I removed the five 10mm nuts holding the header support brace to the body and the 11mm nuts screwed into the header panel. The 2' steel L bracket comes off. Once I took that off my fingers could slip in between. I then took the 1/8" spring nuts I got from the parts store and slid them over a snap on pick to open the hole up so they would fit the emblem pins. There are 4 total. I used a pair of pliers to slide the nuts onto and off the pick. After the nuts were opened slightly I put the first letter into the holes in the header panel and with two fingers pressed the nut onto the letter stud. I used the pick to seat the nut while pressing on the letter from the front. It turned out perfect, nice and tight. I repeated these steps 3 more times. I did not drop one nut and that's something to be proud of! I had a whole bag so I wasn't stressed anyway. Here are some pics of the results. And here is a pic without the letters, now it has an idenity!!
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Got a big little project done that has been bothering me for a while. I installed the JEEP emblem on the front grill. I got them from a fellow member from here and am so grateful. :bowdown: So here goes, I looked at the job and contrary to other opinions I decided to try it my way. I removed the five 10mm nuts holding the header support brace to the body and the 11mm nuts screwed into the header panel. The 2' steel L bracket comes off. Once I took that off my fingers could slip in between. I then took the 1/8" spring nuts I got from the parts store and slid them over a snap on pick to open the hole up so they would fit the emblem pins. There are 4 total. I used a pair of pliers to slide the nuts onto and off the pick. After the nuts were opened slightly I put the first letter into the holes in the header panel and with two fingers pressed the nut onto the letter stud. I used the pick to seat the nut while pressing on the letter from the front. It turned out perfect, nice and tight. I repeated these steps 3 more times. I did not drop one nut and that's something to be proud of! I had a whole bag so I wasn't stressed anyway. Here are some pics of the results. :cheers: And here is a pic without the letters, now it has an idenity!!
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Formerly p**sed, truck fixed now. thanks to all
knever3 replied to Mongo's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
I forgot to mention, you need to test the fusable links with a good heavy duty test light. This may seem crazy, but you will get voltage through a bad link, but current will be restricted. So a load will need to be put on the circuit to test it. Ground the alligator clip directly to your battery post and probe the circuit with the light. If the light goes dim after testing said circuit or the fusable link heats up or smokes it's bad. Did you check the body ground on the fender yet? The one on the block isn't that good because of the rubber engine mounts. If it starts and the gauges go crazy it's probably the body ground. It seems crazy of the manufacture to install a #8 ground wire to a 100A fuse block or bigger. I try to upgrade that ground because it is so accessable and only about 10" long. If you do make sure the permanent one is soldered and crimped so it doesn't degrade over time and cause you the same problems. -
Ohh, this is good stuff, and with CW's advice maybe we'll all learn something. I don't like to be put over a barrel when it comes to health care costs. YES my time if valuable, that's why I made an appointment, if not it would be first come, first serve, like the tire store!!
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Formerly p**sed, truck fixed now. thanks to all
knever3 replied to Mongo's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
Fusable links and ground loops are tricky. I think you probably have both of them. First the fusable links. These are slow blow and try to protect your circuits if a short or something were to occur. If the reverse voltage was done the links are probably bad, I usually check them by doing a visual meaning hold them in your hand and rub the wire on either side of the black cover. The fusable part is the wire that is kind of rubbery. If it feels streched or mushy cut them out and get some new parts store waterproof fusable links. Don't forget to size the fuses correctly!!!!! They is usually labeled writing written on the wire. The problem with the lights coming on from opening the door is probably a bad ground. The way voltage works is positive 12v will always try to find a ground in a circuit so if the ground is deterriated crazy things can happen like when you press on the brake and the wrong light bulbs go on and off for instance or get dimmer. Check your body ground at the battery, the small one attached at the fender, if you can't tell it's bad get another piece of wire to temp jump the existing one. And the last but first thing I would do is get another battery, 12V batteries are made up of 6 plates consisting of 2.11v a piece, if the battery was still hooked up one of these plates are probably shorted. You will not get enough voltage for your components or at worst the battery will blow up if you try to charge it. Hope this helps and by all means take pictures if you need further assistance. -
I just wanted to start a rant thread. Ever go to your Dr. appointment (5 minutes early) only to see 10 people sitting in the waiting room. :hmm: Well your first thought is "there's only one Doctor, so when are these peoples' appointments?" The answer is BEFORE yours!! See the Doctor, or receptionist overbooks their appointments so everyone has to wait at least 45 minutes to get in. Oh, and when you finally get in the nurse takes your pulse, blood pressure and checks your height because who knows you may have had a 6" groath spurt in the last WEEK!! So without going into more detail, let me clue you Doctors and Specialists in on a little secret: There is something called a computer and the internet, it works by entering data and keeping it in a shared folder so you don't have to ask me the same stupid questions. Like age, allergies, sex, marital status etc. See if you had a database we would all save time, so don't waste mine again! :headpop: I know you all have had similar instances so let's hear them...
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What a nice truck, it must be nice to have a driveway with stone in it. I don't think my snowblower would like the lava rock. :no: Let us know how the work comes if any.
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I have called around and the most anyone can tell me is if they have "A Comanche" back there. I ask them for a specific part and they tell me I have to come over to check it out for myself. After I get there they tell me I can't go out to look at the truck. :headpop: Junk yards aren't what they used to be, I can't find hardly any in the phone book or on the internet. :dunno: I don't know how to search for them so I haven't called many. I would love to just find one myself, but I don't know how to search for JY in my area, Midland, MI. If anyone has any tips for finding these I would appreciate it!!
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I like the Diy section writeup, but I don't have a reusable headliner and I really don't want to do it my self.
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I know this topic has been overdone, but I need a new headliner... I searched forever (52 pages!) and didn't find what I need. My headliner is junk, someone put some caulk or spackle all over it because the liner was sagging. :fs1: I need a new backer board, does anyone have one to sell near Midland, MI 48640? Does anyone know a local shop that does good work I can take it to? I wanted to do it myself but I am about done with working with material. The only place I know of is Auto Interior Decorators, which they are very costly. Thanks much,
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1990 Rebirth ('97 Conversion)
knever3 replied to Rymanrph's topic in Member Projects: Your Comanches
I like the color too. The flat style wheels go so good with the flat crisp body and the color just makes it a jeep. To bad the Military didn't get the idea, and if they did they wouldn't pull it off right anyway. You should start a paint fund, lemonade anyone? -
I have pondered the thought of getting black tow hooks, Autozone has them for $10 a piece so they aren't to hard to replace. I would have gone black but the chrome is kind of growing on me. I can't believe I just said that!!! :doh: As for price, I don't want to know the real number, but if you must the time spent working on it with my girlfriend... PRICELESS!! Soon enough it will be nice out again to go for a drive with her. :driving:
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If anyone has a topper installed please post pics so we all can see how they fit. I have heard Ranger or S-10 toppers fit, but just how good or bad. With pictures it would be easier to look at the fit before searching HIGH AND LOW for them. ps: If anyone has a spare one laying around the Michigan area let me know so I can take it off your hands.
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Holy crap batman! $6000 for an '86 unrestored with 145k. It would seem unlikely but there's always someone out there. He's going to sit on this one for a while I think for that price. I know it's a deisel but they aren't the diesels of today. In another note I would like to test drive it to get a real opinion.
