knever3

I agree pull the rear driveshaft and zip tie it up. Easy to do and you don't have to worry about anything. 8mm 6 point wrench and a hammer.

That's good news for the electric speedo!! I want to be able to put it in drive and go not having to down shift for stop lights and such. My real hope is someone would have a donor I could swap them for my complete parts. :D

Ok this is going to take some thought all of you. First off the parts I do have are a '93 231J auto transfer case and a complete ax-15/231J with clutch flywheel and bell housing. The only parts I would need to complete the 4wd swap is a new hard line for the internal slave to the clutch master cylinder. I already have the new front non disco axle in front installed and driveshafts set aside. So I must say I would like to go Automatic because I don't like having a clutch in the truck. I would like an Automatic with cruise control. I would like to have a donor truck with all the necessary parts, floor shift auto with cruise. I can pick up a donor cherokee but the miles would be very high likely from the '88-'90 range. Or I can pick up a newer one and pick between my transfer case and the donor. The only problems I guess would be the electric speedo and throttle body from the non renix with the cruise. I'm between a real rock and a hard place with this because the parts I have would be just a little labor to install. What are your opinions and advice?? My parts plus the aformentioned '93 231J.

I removed the axles cleaned all surfaces and re-installed them as is. I figured if it was that much work and expense for a Dana 35 it would be time for an upgrade to a REAL axle with some strength and serviceability aka Dana 44 or 8.25.

Drove it to work today!!

So Pete, did you get a chainsaw yet? You probably been a little busy since you are a new uncle and all congrats!! I would like some feedback on the easy start feature.

I bought mine at a local rental place. I bought my string trimmer from country grocery and hardware. The point is stihl dealers are places you never thought would handle them. Get online to stihl's website and they will give you a rundown on the closest dealers. The rental place gave me a deal and what was priced is what I paid out the door. They are unilateral priced company like Bose but the owner or salesman can work you a deal so don't be afraid to ask!! The guy that sold me mine put gas and oil in it and started it for the first time and educated me how to use it since I never owned a chainsaw before. Very helpful indeed. So here's the link, it displays a map of all the dealers so you can call before you waste your drive time. http://stihldealer.net/locator/

I just wanted to spark some interest in posting . I'll start with mine: 39,500 miles '87 OE: 4.0L, 2wd, 5 speed, Dana 35 3.07's, sportruck After this winter: 4.0L, 4wd, AX-15 And of course all black interior with radio and sub install this winter.

I would choose the Stihl MS 250 C-BE. http://www.stihlusa.com/chainsaws/MS250CBE.html I have the MS 250 and it's a great saw. I wanted a saw that would be powerful enough to take down a tree stump and all but be light enough to take up a small ladder without much effort. I looked at the 290 but it's to heavy and bulky for ladder work. I recommend the C-BE because it's an EASY START model, meaning it has a primer ball and a depress valve so the pull string doesn't balk on the compression. The salesman tells me it was designed for the older homeowner but after the first time using my saw without the easy start it's a pain in the a** to start and twice I gave up this year. I will take it back to see what I'm doing wrong and if they can't convince me I will trade it for their easy start model. If they get their stuff together soon maybe we'll have a 4 stroke that can start in one pull!!

I love those people. They spend more time complaining about the job and won't spend the money it takes to fix it the first time and then they go buy some stupid go fast chrome valve covers for it!!

Ok, I don't get it. It's a Chief supposed to be the top of the line for Jeep. So why then doesn't it have power locks, windows, Dana 44, 4.0L, Auto, Full Gage cluster, buckets, center console, cruise etc. (EDIT: oh it has cruise!!) I am not hatin' but curious that the top line Chief model seems as stripped down as any other MJ. Hey, if it helps that front brush guard was a factory option, and I see that your interior lights work!! Nice truck and good luck with building it, let us know if we can be some assistance.

I got the same thing, the reason is Paypal doesn't want to get screwed and they tell us the seller that it is protecting the buyer. I went with it and after a couple transactions they stop the 21 day thing. It was not 21 days before the payment was put into my acount though. They must just warn you of the max that could happen because I was apalled that they would hold my money from me without my product since I had already shipped it out!! The nerve. I have heard both pro's and con's about the paypal experience and mine thus far is a good one.

Is there any new replacements sold for the front turn signals? My right front is giving me the light on the dash.

This is a very good question. First off I haven't actually had someone else drive the truck and me watch to see how the springs react. That said I did not replace the shackles and I would like to, do you know which ones I should get? The bushings were froze up but I did get them worked loose. This would be a great upgrade when I remove the rear end to take that extra leaf off. I will start looking for the shackles but if anyone has any suggestions on prior experience let me know. No I don't Pete, I have stock '93 Cherokee lowers and new stock uppers now. I plan on buying JKS adjustable lowers because as of now my caster is high because I haven't installed any shims. It does drive like a shopping cart but the steering is sure easy!! I plan on a lot of upgrades this winter so hopefully I get the time to enjoy the work.

Here are some pics of the leaf packs I have, they have 5 leaves with the bolt and clamp on both ends of the main leaf with a space of around an inch before they hit any other leaf. I think when I take off they creek because they have so much room to move on either side before hitting the next leaf. I could grease them but what if I put some hard rubber strips inbetween each leaf? Thanks for all the replies, this is good stuff!!!

What do you mean about the clinch-type spring clips? Could you show me a picture? The leaves creek a lot when taking off at any speed because the springs have about an inch before contacting the bolt and clamp. Is this what you are referring to? If so how can I eliminate this creeking? This seems like it would contribute to a ton of axle wrap if any power is put to the ground and thus straining the U-joints due to pinion angle, can this be remided?

I have Hell Creek 3" lift rear springs installed and I was wondering if anyone has removed one of the leaves to improve the ride? The springs have 5 leaves so if I take one off would it ride better and sit a little lower? The rear sits a lot higher than the front with 3" Motion Offroad springs. I don't need to carry 1500lbs of gear in the bed I would like better ride empty. It rides great with 500lbs in the bed but it rides like a 5 ton stake truck empty. Any suggestions would be great. Here is a pic with a few hundred pounds of trash I took to the dump, it didn't squat an inch but it rode better.

As a fellow Jeep fan I would start to say that the gladiator concept was a cool idea. That said the market for a small pickup like the colorado would be difficult because the price between a full size 4x4 and a compact is null in todays market. The colorado is a joke pickup because of the stupid inline 5 instead of the company's own inline 6. Due to crash test results the 6 was not considered. Well maybe they should have thought of that before building it!! To limit someone buying a 4x4 truck to 3500lbs of towing capacity is like giving him the keys to an AWD Ford Aerostar and saying good luck! To build a smaller pickup now would require lots of money and all the creature comforts that cost just that. And don't forget about safety, if you don't already know our beloved Comanche is on the bottom of the safety scale. That's why my daily driver is a '06 Grand Cherokee. It's like a 4wd cadillac. You can't just charge $35k for a smaller pickup and sell it as an alternative to the Ranger or Colorado. Just so we're clear if they build one I would consider buying it, unless they screw it up like the Commander.

I was a pioneer fanatic back in the days of the NEW IMPP stuff, but when I got my first Alpine the sound quality was night and day. Now I have heard some Kenwood Excelon decks and I must say they sound just as good. The interface on the deck is cumbersome because if you press the volume button you should be able to change simple settings like Bass, Treble, Fader and Balance. With Alpine now you have to get into the menu that the Best Buy guy had to look up online. It shouldn't take reading the manual to figure out how to do such simple things. Alpine take note: Go back to the basics, the volume button is a multi-function button, the color of Alpine backlights are GREEN, not the trendy Blue, and better yet... How bout making the US versions with color change, not just the "R" models for Europe. O!! And how about bringing back the V-Drive amp, 27wX4 RMS, not this wimpy 18wX4 amp now. I may not be an Alpine fanatic or supporter for long if the 9887 is the highest model and thus the most difficult to use not to mention having to buy the imprint to do anything. Good decision, now about buying a Ford, that's entirely different!!

I would buy the Alpine, I have the CDA-117 new waiting to install in the Comanche this winter and I did my research and by the way the Alpine has 4V preouts too. I do like dare I say the Excelon stuff from Kenwood, but I am an Alpine guy. Having the bluetooth would be nice if it worked as advertised but I don't have a bluetooth phone anyway, and the truck is too loud to pick up my voice over the ambient noise. And if it's still you cup o tea you can buy the module. The only thing that the Kenwood has is a nicer display due to it's 5 line display. If you name your songs it's nice to see them, if not the info is just blank. The best way to choose is to go to the store and play with it for a while, the best one wins!!

I wanted to buy a cheap truck just to get me by because some careless driver pulled out in front of me and totalled my XJ I loved so much(seriously ask my girlfriend!!). After looking briefly at '90-'92 Ford Rangers I thought "hey Jeep made a truck!" and started searching for one. I found a nice looking 2wd 4.0L one that I liked so after many questions and a language barrier I decided just to drive and see it for myself. I borrowed my good friends truck and trailer and my girlfriend and I were off. When parked at a gas station for a pit stop a guy was walking back to his car after paying for his fuel when something rare caught his eye. He gave it a look and then stopped and looked back at the truck on the trailer. His second look is what will always stick with me and it warmed my heart. After returning 21 hours later round trip I decided to restore it. As some of you know my girlfriend has been an inspiration and the driving factor to the project. So to answer your question, it's not the most expensive car that gets people excited, it's the unique one that many people can relate to and find tasteful. Thus why I restored the truck, and I have countless stories of head turners and the look in their eyes is priceless.

I wish they'd launch the Compass and Patriot into space... Permanently!!!! So on that topic, how 'bout this as a Mars rover?

I bought a heavy duty Moog one. It was pricey around $80 compared to monroe's puny stock replacement that was $35, but I like a tight front end. That sounded weird. :hmm:

I have removed my old worn out cables but I would like to replace them. Here is the problem: The hole in the backer plates is now oval and is to big to securely fasten the push-in clips of the cables. I do not want to replace the backer plates on a Dana 35 because it is a complete waste of money so what do I do? Sorry I didn't take any pictures but I'm sure everyone has had this problem on one or more cars or trucks. I guess I could have someone weld on a grade 8 washer to the back side but I don't have a welder myself. Any suggestions??

Here is your answer. If you don't want the buzzer at all remove it. I find that once you've left your lights on once (and your battery dies leaving you stranded) the buzzer has gotten a new lease on life. If I was so concerned about it I would wire in a time delay circuit that would turn the lights on with ignition, and delay off after I get out with an override if I choose. View entire discussion here: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=4464&hilit=headlight+on+buzzer