Automan2164

This is an actual MJ with a 401 in it. A professionally built one at that... Making 517 dyno confirmed HP on pump gas. He said it does a 12.1 in the quarter too, when it hooks up and finally gets traction that is. Rob

http://comancheclub.com/topic/38992-mjotm-tips/?hl=mjotm These were some of my go-to's when selecting. Rob

Safer than hooks. No metal to come flying in case of failure. Twist is there to keep them open. Rob

Seems like a ton of more work than just replacing the original switch... If you were hell bent on not replacing the cylinder... Hell, you could probably pick up a new column out of the yard cheaper than that switch assembly. Bolt in, and easy to do so. Since yours is an '88, if you would have gotten the column, door cylinders, and glovebox cylinder out of an '91+ XJ you could have done away with the 2 keys as a bonus. Rob

Looks like a garbage home brew 3 link. Pass. Rob

That's not too bad at all. I picked up a set of mopar fogs and brackets that is the match to the kit for roughly $90 at the dealer of you go that route also. No China lenses. Rob

Eagle, may be worth a call to the dealer and see if they have an NOS kit laying around for the upfit. May be able to talk them down on price also. I bought the header panel harness and it's still hanging on the wall in the garage to go into my '97 XJ. I'll let you know if I beat ya to it. Rob

Eagle, I was told that while all the dash wiring and such is there, they don't have the fog harness in the header panel. In order to get the pigtails, you have to switch the header panel harness. I was also made aware that another problem some have ran into was that the fog light relay in the underhood junction box isn't there if you don't have the option. -Easy to overcome- But, if you are as unlucky as some people I have read about, there aren't even pins in the junction box to accept the relay. Rob

I wish I had room. I'd dd this in the winter fo sho. Rob

Sorry, just keep finding cool stuff to ask about, but I doubt you mind free pics to promote. Do you have some general pricing for some of your stuff or a price list?

Really digging on the grilles... How much for the XJ/MJ grille keychain and what is your standard shipping charge if you have one? And how much for the key hook? Really liking some of your stuff. Thanks, Rob :cheers:

The thing that makes me super leery of that axle is it is apart to such a degree. If I were to buy an axle like that, I would have the bearings and seals replaced, which will require gear setup, which is costly if you are incapable of doing so yourself. You don't know why it's apart other than 'It's easier to move'. I would assume the worst... Gears aren't matched, or pieced together... Inherent problems before taking out and apart... Unless you were in the $100-150 category, something you would be willing to flush and forget if need be... I would pass. Rob

Ben, the sensor was going out on my old '91 Eliminator when I was in high school. A quick few slaps on the sensor with the back of a medium sized screwdriver always got it fired up again... Never replaced it, just gave it a tap every now and then. Give it a tap and see if it comes back. Rob

I hear ya, I do. They have a fantastic reputation for doing outstanding work, and have been around as long as I can remember. They have been around at least 15-20 years to my knowledge. I have frequently went in there and asked for advice, or help, without ever paying. That's the only reason I play ball. You take care of me every once and awhile, I'll take care of you. The PEQ missed the shipment Tueday (I know, I know), so it finally came in today. Tuesday I also made an appointment for Angela's car to get the 3 year old remote start put in. Long story short, I bought the thing from them 3-4 years ago planning on putting it in her Corolla when I had time. Needless to say, either I was wiring burnt out from installing all the Police Cruiser equipment, didn't have a place to tear into it, the time, or the desire... I finally said enough is enough. They are putting it in for $120. I also just asked them if they could 'Tune' the new setup in the XJ. I had the dog with, as well as a miserable Angela waiting on me as we dropped her car off and picked up the PEQ. They said they could tune it, I asked how much, and he said $35. I about let slip 'Are you kidding me?' Knowing how many times I have come in there to get advice and then go to Best Buy, or Amazon... I just sucked it up. The dog was driving me nuts, so was Angela, so I just wanted it done. Paid the man to get it set up. Took them about a half hour. If I hadn't had to wrangle a dog and miserable GF I probably would have talked my way into the shop to get a schooling for my $35. I'll take note of where everything is set and get back to you guys. We have to go back tomorrow to pick up her car, and this time I am leaving the bratty pup at home. She will have her car to leave with, so I'll just hang around and annoy them, ask some more questions and whatnot. The suck of it was that now, with everything set up like it should be and firing on all cylinders, I couldn't 'effin enjoy it. Since we dropped Angela's car off and she was not feeling well, I couldn't rock out like I wanted to on the ride home. Even worse than that, she's borrowing it tomorrow while her car is out. Rob :headpop:

Spacers? I wouldn't go that far. They made plenty of those wheels in our lug pattern. I'd wait for a set to pop up. Rob

I have found that one of the best ways to get around our search function is to use google. In the google search bar, type 'Site:comancheclub.com' without the quotes, followed by whatever you are looking for. Much faster and more thorough way of doing it. Rob

Just my personal preference, but I think those are about the ugliest wheels ever produced. These, and their polished counterpart. Also, judging by the size of the hub hole, the one you have pictured, if it is the one off the CL ad, won't fit. Looks more like CJ sized than MJ/XJ. Rob

Something with a rumble seat. Rob

Decent video from the other day: Rob

Since I have nothing else to do, here is the page for the el cheapo sub that was the only one that would fit back into the factory spot. http://www.soundstormlab.com/auto/ss8/ Rob

Going to be a long wait... Audio shop called back today, their shipments only come once a week from the warehouse... And the shipments only come Tuesdays... I said to go ahead and continue the order, but talk about itching to just go to amazon... It helps that they are a good group of guys. Rob

!!!! http://dayton.craigslist.org/cto/4117512984.html CL dayton all for sale / wanted cars & trucks - by owner pdxt5-4117512984@sale.craigslist.org [?]flag [?] : miscategorized prohibited spam best of Posted: 2013-10-08, 3:02PM EDT 1986 Jeep Comanche X Pickup Truck Completely restored and painted. New radiator, new headliner, new carpet. Bed has been coated with a Ziebart-type coating. Truck has a fiberglass cap over the bed. Dual exhausts. 4-cylinder with automatic transmission. Best offer over $20,000 dollars. A bed liner/mat is on order.it's NOT ok to contact this poster with services or other commercial interests

Was talking to a guy at work who always dabbles in car audio, and I think he sold me on the remote EQ. He brought up a good point about just being able to control it on the fly depending on mood and music. I found it online as cheap as $18, lists for 30.99. I ended up calling the local audio shop that has always given me great advice. I'm going to pay the list price through them and give them a little business. http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/products/details/peq Always better to help a good independent business, as well as I am sure they will give me the hands on run down when I pick it up. Rob

So. Just played with it some more... As well as looked into more settings. So far, we are here: HU: SUB LEVEL: +9 LPF: 85HZ HPF: 100HZ AMP: HIGH/LOW: LOW FREQ: 250 GAIN: 6 (Haven't yet touched it.) Any reason I would need to change the phase? When you talk about adjusting the gain to the point where the sub starts to stress... What am I listening for? I can't get too loud out there because it's now almost 9, so I will have to play more tomorrow. Rob

Butchershop, Knever3, thanks for the input. It's most valuable since I haven't the slightest idea w/ car audio... Ok, it's all in. I cleaned out the back and got it ready for pics, but it got too dark and I haven't finish tied the excess heading back to the sub, so pics will have to wait until tomorrow. Plus, since I wire squad cars as part of my job, messy wires bother me, so I need to clean those up back there. I must say that I think I am doing something wrong... It seemed like the stock sub/amp had a richer sound, but that was also dummy proof as far as settings go. That was a 'Set it and forget it' kinda deal. Here is a copy of the Kenwood audio controls on my HU: Display Description SUB-W LEVEL*1 –15 to +15 (0): Adjust the subwoofer output level. BASS LEVEL –8 to +8 (0): Adjust the level to memorize in each source. (Before making an adjustment, select the source you want to adjust.) MID LEVEL TRE LEVEL EQ PRO (for KDC-X797) BASS ADJUST BASS CTR FRQ 60/ 80/ 100/ 200: Select the center frequency. BASS LEVEL –8 to +8 (0): Adjust the level. BASS Q FACTOR 1.00/ 1.25/ 1.50/ 2.00: Adjust the quality factor. BASS EXTEND ON: Turns on the extended bass. ; OFF: Turns off the extended bass. MID ADJUST MID CTR FRQ 0.5K/ 1.0K/ 1.5K/ 2.5K: Select the center frequency. MID LEVEL –8 to +8 (0): Adjust the level. MID Q FACTOR 0.75/ 1.00/ 1.25: Adjust the quality factor. TRE ADJUST TRE CTR FRQ 10.0K/ 12.5K/ 15.0K/ 17.5K: Select the center frequency. TRE LEVEL –8 to +8 (0): Adjust the level. PRESET EQ NATURAL/ USER/ ROCK/ POPS/ EASY/ TOP40/ JAZZ/ POWERFUL: Select a preset sound mode suitable to the music genre. (Select "USER" to use the customized bass, middle, and treble settings.) BASS BOOST LV1/ LV2/ LV3: Select your preferred bass boost level. ; OFF: Disables level selection. LOUDNESS LV1/ LV2: Select your preferred low and high frequencies boost to produce a well-balanced sound at a low volume level. ; OFF: Disables level selection. BALANCE L15 to R15 (0): Adjust the left and right speaker output balance. FADER R15 to F15 (0): Adjust the rear and front speaker output balance. SUBWOOFER SET ON: Turns on the subwoofer output. ; OFF: Turns off the subwoofer output. DETAILED SET HPF THROUGH: All signals are sent to the front speaker. ; 100/ 120/ 150 (HZ): Frequencies lower than the specified value are cut off. LPF SUBWOOFER*1 THROUGH: All signals are sent to the subwoofer. ; 85HZ/ 120HZ/160HZ: Frequencies higher than the specified value are cut off. SUB-W PHASE*1 REVERSE (180°)/ NORMAL (0°): Select the phase angle of the subwoofer output to be in line with the speaker output for optimum performance. (Selectable only if a setting other than "THROUGH" is selected for "LPF SUB-W".) SUPREME SET ON: Creates realistic sound by interpolating the high-frequency components that are lost in MP3/WMA/AAC/WAV audio compression and iPod. ; OFF: Disables creation. (Selectable only when playing back an MP3/WMA/AAC/WAV disc, USB device or iPod.) VOLUME OFFSET –8 to +8 (0) (for AUX) ; –8 to 0 (for other sources): Presets the volume adjustment level of each source. The volume level will automatically increase or decrease when you change the source. (Before making an adjustment, select the source you want to adjust.) I have just been mostly playing so far. I have the level at 9, the LPF at 85HZ, and the preset eq to 'rock'. It just didn't sound like I thought it should, basing it off the stock stuff. I take it the HPF it talks about for the front is the high pass crossover you talked about? So basically, it filters out any bass going to them... What would be your recommended starting point for that? You beat me to the controls on the amp, so that saves some questions on my part. I have some more tinkering to do... Rob